pingpong

I am going to call Monday and see what he has to say about my setup, and if he thinks his shocks are upto the task of being rolled and flopped. Then my next question will concern if he offers dual rate kits and stuff, and what he recommneds for springs. I am 99% sure I can call RBS or schaffers and they will be able to point me in the right direction for springs and sell me the proper setup, but at close to 3 times what FOAm wants

I have had zero issues with my RE HD setup, and that has been with 6.5" coils.

D300 flip kits are expensive, I know there is a write up somewhere on pirate on how to do it yourself for cheap. Then the weakness becomes the outputs.... Upgrading to 32 spline is almost a must especially if you plan on rock crawling. Do a search on pirate, and it will reveal all you need to know about doing the doubler

The 700r4 Is a great tranny if you need the overdrive function. Down sides are the lock up convetor and the comp controller... all can be bypassed. The earlier versions (pre 89) have been said to have weaker bands and clutches, this is easy fixed by upgrading to later model parts. I don't know how much of chamber and hill climbing you do, but where the fluid is picked up on it is in the center of the pan, so over filling it is almost mandatory if you wheel in those conditions As for the combo you listed thats a great set-up.... I have a similar one in my 85 xj, except it is a 207 behind mine

What I know is most ppl judge how well something works on what they read. If you look at the ppl who bash cheaper parts... more then likely they have never owned them or used them. at the same time if you buy a cheaper part, if it fails don't come on the net and bash it cause you exceeded the design limits of the equipment. That being said there ae a few exceptions.... Bad service.. is bad service. Poor craftsmanship, is just that. Lastly 99% of the time you get what you pay for.

I have not made it out to the garage as of yet.. but I will try tommorow morning as I am just getting home from work. Most ppl use two joints per link depending on their suspension setup. Radias arm setups only need a flex joint at the frame, cause that is the only pivot point on the axle, where as three links and four links can benifit from the added flex at both ends. Radias arm setups like Rusty's and RE's really don't gain any flex from the top flex joint. I know of some ppl running home made set up like that and they have metal bushings on the top part, to minimize axle movement that they were suffering from on hard reverse throttle applications. I hope that makes sense

Well I think I am going to get a set of coilovers from them in a couple of weeks... I just need to jam out about 20hrs of OT to afford them

Most of the time 100-150 depending on how good of shape it is in.. and as Jeff said how bad it is needed. They are a dime a dozen in the junk yards around here.

I am not sure how they would last on the street.. I went with them cause they had a discount, and the sell th brackets I bought. I am not sure if they will fit in the stock openings.. I almost doubt it... they look to be double the size of the RE parts.. as soon as I get a chance I will check.

I know the 01's have a funky distributor setup.. and a few other changes. if you wnat to swap a renix motr in with no issues I would say 90, but the block pretty much satyed the same through out the yrs. I think 99 was the distributor change, and 96 was the oil filter change.

Those are some good prices... I wonder who has used them and abused them like I will. Ineed to do some more research on them

When you tighten them together they are preloaded. the oil impregnated plastic last longer then the rubber or poly bushing. Once you put it together its done... No other issues later.

Shoot me a PM and I will point you in a direction to an inspection station that will take into account the later motor upgrade. They are also 4x4 friendly

It is not really that cheap. Figure 600 for the doubler and the shaft, then you have to buy the two t-cases. Not really cheaper then proper gearing. You could do the"box for rocks" or similar setup, but they are still 350 plus you need another t-case to do it with. I was given both the d300 and the np203, andit is cheaper for me to do the doubler then it is to regear, cause of where the gear break is on the 14 bolt and d60 I would have to buy new carriers for both. Just food for thought

Also keep in mind that the motor uses more fule to make more power :eek: ANd as pointed out the increase in power is in the upper rpm band, not down low where you want it and need it. Yes a HO head will bolt to a renix motor, and it is pretty straight forward, you will need a different valve cover gasket then what comes in the older gasket sets. Also need to use the older renix style exhaust manifold, or plug off the exhaust riser that is under the intake

Its on the side of the intake below the throttle body. Yours should have it unless you swapped in a later then 90 non renix motor.

Here is a link to the joints I bought http://ballisticfabrication.3dcartstore ... -1227.html I went with the 11/4 shank, just for added beef.

Well I ended up ordering my doubler from Jeds Machining... Nice vendor to deal with. http://www.jedsmachining.com/300.html

The cab is still there.... at least for a lil while longer. I think tommorow I am going to order the doubler set up :D I think I am going to end up getting it from Staz worxs instead of ATOR... read some bad crap about ATOR on pirate while researching different vendors

The thread bushing thing is similar to the JKS setup and the setup terra used on their first generation Long arms. It actually works pretty good for bushings as it gives them the articulation to keep them from distorting. Be advised that JJ have to be shimmed as they wear, and that can get old... a lot of the newer joints out there use the oil impregnated plastic and have the preload established by a screw in side, thus making it easier and faster to adjust preload (if that makes sense) Also keep in mind that some joints out there have different diameter threads.... Mine are 1 1/4 x12 where JJ are 1 x12, some are as small as 3/4 :eek:

well I have been working a lot of hours as of late. I ordered my new rim centers and rock rings for the H1's and they sgould be in soon. I really can't proceede until I have my roling stock in position to set up my suspension. I still need to order my doubler setup... and coilover and springs. also a wiring harness. I am trying to find a wrecked s-10 or blazer to pull the harness and comp out of it. Slow process, compounded by the fact that I have only worked 1 40 hr week so far this year, the rest of them have been 60 to 80 hr ones.

Well that is typical Rusty's service. The reason why you probrably didntget it when promised was it wasnt shipped early enough by the supplier. I have ordered stuff from him before and it has taken 3 weeks to get stuff that he had in stock.... so I don't deal with him no more. I don't know what a new Track bar costs, but by the sounds of it.. you got screwed

Does that setup cause a lot of bump steer :brows:

I ran Warn's diff cover for years, and bashed it many times, never had any issue with it.

It all depends on what you are going to be using them for, and how you wheel. I agree hiem joints are not for street rigs, and they are not for places where you wheel in mud alot. there are lots of choices to... shop around and see what you find, also remember the bigger joints require bigger tubing