pingpong

All I have to say is Yellow top Optima. Last April when I went to Tellico, I fried my Alternator, and pretty much the same thing you describe happened to me, except no parts store open in that Part of NC on Sunday till after 10 or something. So we swapped in a buddies Yelow top, and I drove 400+ miles on battery alone. Granted I wasn't using any accesories, but It brought me close enough to home that one of my buddies could come and get me. Needless to say all my rigs run yellow tops now. Patrick

Well Today I finally got rif of my street jeep. :shock: :cry: But all is not lost. For it I acquired a D60 out of an F250, and another D44 out of a F150. Both are geared to 4.10, and the D60 has a LSd in it. Pland are for a rear spool, 5.38's and disc brakes. For the D44 its an ARB, hi-steer arms, and drive pucks. More to come on this.

Good tech bit. Patrick

Well needless to say myu build up is progressing, and we are preparing to build seat mounts. My question is... Does any think there is a market for seat mounts for the MJ. Naturally I wil have more info once3 we get to fabbing them, but more then likely they can be a bolt in, or weld in affair. Mine will be welded to my parts of my floor, and tied into my cage. If there is enough intrest, I might make up a few bolt in sets. Patrick

You can buy my 89 MJ with the ax15, for a reasonable price. even comes with other pars as well :D

Also I have encountered Reverse torx head bolts on 2 different rigs in the top 2 tranny bolts. makes it real easy to strip them out. Patrick

If that was the case, you could have still done a TBI conversion. Patrick

I don't think you need a pilot bushing for an automatic. At least I don't remember seeing one last time I pulled one. :? You might have to change your flywheel to make it work. I think they are different parts... actually I am almost positive. :shock: I hope you got a TCM for the tranny as well, as a tps for an automatic. Patrick

C'mon now.... You know ppl will read about that stuff :roll: But you are right there are a lot of opinions out there, and you have to wade through that to get to the truth :? Like I said I am still in the research phase on the 1/4 ellipticals. I will keep you all posted. Patrick

If you buy the right(expensive)snap ring pliers, I am sure you can do it. You will need a 13mm socket, a torque wrench, a 1 1/8 inch socket, as well as a think it was a 15mm. not hard, especilly since you have it out. patrick

My question is why.... 360, with a gmn tbi conversion would have been easier :D

I haven't had a chance ot get with Matt over at http://independent4x.com/ but if you call him and ask him, I am sure he will send you a link. I will ask him when I am up there on Thursday. They are actually used by RV builders. I think they were slick. Patrick

I too didnt get everything with my axle. The pinion flange nunts were like 7 bucks, the u-bolts were 60 form the dealership, the spring plates were another 45 form the stealership. Be advised when rotated pinion angle set these things take 4 qts of fluid. alo they make mini spools for these as well. The down side is gearing stops at 4.56 or 4.88, and this is why I will be selling my axles. On a side note, for anuone consideriing running one of these, The ring gear sits real close to the diff cover, and thay are not very well made. They tend to leak once peeeled a lil, and the dent real easy. Blue torch fab makes a great cover, it is what i am running now. Patrcik

I think with mine I set My wheel base at 122 and my pinion was at 7*. that gave me the best trcking ability going down the road. patrick

I throw a few more curves to you now. On the tranny's you forgot about the auto's that were available. Aw4 and the TF909. On the axle you forgot about the AMC 20 On lifts you forgot about Drop Brakcets, and the more advanced 3links and 4 links. also 1/4 ellipticals (this is what I am researching for the rear of my trail rig :twisted: ) just a lil different. Patrick

If you pick that one up, I think I know someone who wil buy it from you. Check the ratio first though. I might sugest that you pull everything including the pinion flange, u-bolts and plates as well as the rubber brake line. All these will add a lil resale value. I'll have my 8.8 for sale probrably by the end of 06, but it is all ready built, so you don't want that. Patrick

I wanna say it is around 113, I know the LWB is 119.3 or something. If I was you... I would set it so my tires are centered in the wheel well, instead of worrying about the proper wheel base. Remember if you flex out, your tires will travel closer to the cab. Or this is what I have learned. don't ofr get to set you caster to factory specs as well, then worry about your pinion angle. Patrick

You forogt to tell them about different lift kits. I mean stock arms, adjustable uppers and lowers, the diferent Long arm kits out there. The dreaded going backwards and putting leafs up front. Also the different makes. Make it clear that Roiugh country ride rough, Rusty's quality is questionable. So on and so forth. The rear prop valve needs to addressed in there. As well as the swapping of rear axles, and what is required. I will be doing a write up on my rigs build as soon as it is completed, which could be by the end of this week :D Maybe also a list of different lift makers, and what they have. Patrick

This was posted on MPJAI club forum and I think we all need to try and keep any and all wheeling open to the public. So if you would read the post and send the email http://mpjai.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4420 Patrick

the only difference I know of is in the door strikers, and the bumper mounts. Everything else is a bolt on affair Patrick

What bounty hunter said is true.... I would weld them using some 7018... depending on your welder I wouldnt turn the heat up but so much cause the stock Lca mounts are 1/8 inch junk. But lca skids, and bracing the sides might help it last a lil while longer. Patrick

I have seen the upper mount get twisted... wasnt a pretty site.. that is when I decided to truss that side. Drivers side is cast into the pumpkin, so no real need to truss that.

Nic e clean looking MJ. What are your plans for it? BTW welcome to the forum Patrick

Looks awesome :D .... Now wheel it and follow the progressin to the dark side :twisted: Your body on your rig is prety striaght :shock: once you start getting some dents, you will end up following evolution to where I am at. first the bed will go, then you will eoo -cage it, then you will chop the frame, and the saga will continue :twisted: Just check my sig for more progress on my setup. we should have it on the trail in a few days

great deal. I have everything listed in my front, plus a hi-steer and it cost me a lot more. My advice to you is to truss the passenger side mount, by addding platye to the back, and by going to the housing. Also pulling the seals, and welding the tubes to the housing will help ensure your axle lives a long and happy life, And adding LCA skids is never a badd idea. Reinforcing the lower mounts is always good. Patrick