pingpong

I would try and figure out why you keep blowing spider gears. what is actually breaking? A new D35 open carrier is like 35 bucks from Supplee 4WD. The you will need spider gears, they should be cheap as well, or you can go buy a lock right and hope you don't start busting shafts. If you can find some one with a good bearing puller, you could re-use your old bearings, and swap your gears onto the new carrier. Where I live at the Pick A part sells diffs for 27 bucks, so used might be an option for you. They also sell whole axles for 120. Which if your lucky you can get a 8.8 for that and as long as it is attatched to the axle it goes with it. Patrick

I have done this swap :D and have been running it for almost a yr now. Spring perches home made out of 2x3x1/4 tubing. Then drilled it for a center pin. Shock mounts, I would go get some tubing, or make tabs. Save a lil money, but they are available for about 20 bucks. I would definately buy aftermarket u-bolts, as the factory ones leave a lil to be desired, as well as the spring plates. Check Matt out at http://independent4x.com/ He sold me some nice beefy u-bolts and plates, as well as some degree shims. Pinion flange is avaaible just abhout everywhere, but you want a spicer one, not a ford one. Ford ones are not as beefy. The pinion flange bolts are a dealership item. They are a funky metris version of a grade 8, and they are 12 sided I didnt have to shorten my D/S as it was all ready setup for a sye. For brake lines I used 2 driver side lines, and made my own mounts. You could possibly re-use the passenger side hard line, but you will need to bend your own drivers side. This will also be a good time to get a new flex line. Matt, at Independent can get custom length DOT approved ones for a reasonable rate. I used new rotors on mine, and they were 75 bucks for the pair. don't forget about the e-brake. Those shoes were expensive. I have a new set I can sell you. Never hooked up the e-brakes. I all ready had the wheel spacers, but they can be had for 75 bucks last time I checked. You will also need some hi-nickel rod to weld the pumpkin to the tubes. If you don't, you can spin the tubes. When I did my swap I used these writeups as refrences. http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html http://www.stu-offroad.com/otherwriteup ... axle-1.htm Patrick

Best way to center the axle is by eye. Basically remove the trac bar and steer the axle till it looks straight. Then attach the trac bar and all the steering. The cycle your steering to make sure that it won't limit your wheel s from going side to side.

I have seen you are coming to the dark side :twisted: Let it draw you in, and become one with you future. Seriously You need to decide what the maz size tire you are going to run on your rig. Since the front is all ready setup, With 4.56 find you an isuzu 12 bolt. same strength as a 60 and all ready has disc brakes. all it needs is a lil trussing around the tubes to the pumpkin. don't forget to include rims and tires into your build. If it wasn't for that simple fact I would all ready be rididng on 1ton gear.

I also recomend using poly bushings there, don't do lie I did 6 months ago and used rubber, now I have to replace them cause of slop. I was hoping not to have to put any money into my current set-up. Guess I hoped wrong. Patrick

The washer trick works, but I don't know of any one who carries a spare 2 piece shaft in case you break a u-joing or worse yet the short side of the 2 piece ( I have never seen it happen, but I have seen the joint bust. Talk about a PITA to change on the trail.) Also on some of the SYE's there is no provision for the VD hoses, thats why I ended up doing mine. Found a helluva a deal on a used SYE, but had no vacumm provision, so Instead of doing the washers, or a home made Posilock, I swapped shafts. Patrick

The front axle bushing holes (bushing) are bigger then the UCA bolt holes, might want to redrill the uca's to eliminate that popping that has been known to happen with the shifting of the front axle. 12TON jackstands are the $h!t. I can still use them to suppost my ride and swap rear axles out w/o having to stack things to get enough height. Get an alignment as soon as you finish installing your lift. Loc-tight everything. Use lock nuts on everything. Have plenty of beer on hand so you can bribe your friends to help you. Instal everything tight, lower it onto the ground and then torque to specs. That should cover it. Patrick

Here is what I have found from MY experience. Usinf a lunch box lucker up front, and you won't have any of the bad handling that ppl always talk about up front. MY rig was my DD for a yr, and I drove it locked up front on the street all the time. Steering takes a lil more effort up front when 4wd is engaged. Thats about it. If you keep the CAD axle ( I don't know why you would, with so many HP 30's available aT CAPS) You can lincoln lock your front and have lil to no adverse side affects, excpet for the possible u-joint and axle shaft explosion. The way the xj/mj/zj/yj t-case is designed to work is the front axles are alays free spinning until you engage the 4wd. That being the case, that is why axle u-joints can cause vibes in the steering wheel. It is also why the front D/S will cause vibrations when extreme lifts (over 8") are applied to HP 30's and 5" on low pinion 30's. This is why they say to put t-case in nuetral, and trans in nuetral when flat towing, or towing with a set of wheels on the ground. Patrick

I am going to bhe acquiring parts for a few months, probrably almost a yr. H1 bead locks if I can find them used and cheap will be 300 for 5. Tires are going to run me about 1500. To regear and lock both axles I am probrbably looking at close to 2 grand. So needless to say here is where it gets expensive. I will be able to off set some of my expenses by selling my 35's and rims, my 8.8 that is linoln locked, with BTF diff cover. Where I will get the most money is out of my front. HP 30, locked (lock right) trussed, skid plated, with tTerra hi-steer knuckle, alloy shafts with 760 joints. Also has a custom center link with 1 ton chevy ends, made out of 1.5x1/4 DOM. So if anybody is seriuosly wanting a good setup that has proven to be bullet proof oon 35's let me know. Patrick

With ll that lift you can clear 44's I think

go to a pick and pull and pull a passenger side shaft out of an xj/zj/tj. last time I checked they were 30 dollars a side. Patrick

I don't know if I tols you all but phase 2 of my build is done :D Working on acquiring phase 3 parts. So far I have a full float d60, and thats about it. The rest of the plan is to get a hp60 for upfront, histeer, 5.13 or 5.38 gears, ARB up front spool rear with 35 spline alloys front and rear. For rims I plan on running recentered hummer bead locks, and for tires I was thinking 42 Irocs or tsl's. BTW I am not going any higher on the lfit. Needless to say more tube work and cutting will be in my future

You got some pics of this setup.. I would like to see it

My truggy is a column shift :( It sucks on the trail.. especially after adding 5 pont harnesses :shock:

You al think your wife hates your rig :roll: My wife makes me spend whatever I spend on my truggy doing a mod back on the house. So if I do a 1000 dollar mod to my rig... she gets a 1000 dollars to spend on the house :shock: Talk about mods getting expensive. :evil: The worst part about it is.. she won't even go with me :(

We didnt make up any other mounts when we did mine, but the mounting system we used is stout, and is made of 1/4 plate, 1/4 tabs and 1.5 DOM. I don't think it will break. Patrick

If you have to replace that seal all ready, then there is no reason why you can't do wht you described. Or you can just place seal CR13165 in the outer portion of the vacum tube housing and use a 1 piece shaft on that side. Patrick

Exo and everything held up great. Here is a link to NC Krawlers site... they got some pics of my rig http://www.nckrawlers.com/forums/album_ ... SC&start=0 And a link to the club I belong to, they got a few shots of me http://mpjai.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4468&start=15 I was assured the video will be up in the next 36 HRS

I went to Crozet VA this past week end and had a blast. My MJ Truggy did really good considering it was its maiden voyage and it snowed all weekend :twisted: No real damage to report except for some scratches and the need to relocate my Vacum tank. I need to mod my front bumper as well. Things that broke on other rigs, a buggy broke a D60 housing where the tubes go into the pumpkin. Made a true 2 piece axle out of it. Seen a Explorer on full width d60 and D44 break a D44. He ended up bending the inner C, breaking both ball joints, damaging the ear on a knuckle. Plus on the same side of the axle he broke an alloy shaft and a Ox u-joint. Bad thing was it was its maiden voyage as well. OH BTW I had my first true flop this weekend. Kinda a slow one.. but still a flop :twisted: I will get video posted some time soon. Patrick

Doing what jeff says makes sense with the cardboard, :D but who wants to do thing the easy way. I justr throw them in a box (or whatever is handy) and sort them out later. :twisted: BTW swapping to an auto tranny would prevent you from having to do this again :wink:

Jeff give me a holer I have a used yellow top for sale. Less then a yr old. was in my street jeep. Patrick

The one that was on my rig moutned from the bottom 2 holes. I am not sure what class it was, but I used it as a tow point till I built my bumper. Patrick

Pete, my original plan was to swap part from my trial rig onto my strret rig, but things never go as I plan :roll:

I had to make new custom brackets to mount my PRP seats in my rig. Came out pretty nice considering. When I had the stock XJ buckets in there I used a CJ7 center console. It worked out great for me. Patrick

I will put it to you this way... My friends were starting to wonder if I was ever going to drive it. I sold the Tires and rims off of it, and was getting ready to part it out, when a guy in the club offered me the axles for it the way it was :shock: Needless to say, I took the deal, cause the axles are worth more then the truck is to me. Needless to say, time to start saving money again for phase 3 and 4 of my build up. :roll: My question is does it ever end