pingpong

Are you talking about the block mount or the frame mount

Also the Dana 27 axle is a closed knuckle axle. Kinda like yota's and sami's. They stopped using them in jeeps in the early 70's. So the chance of you having a 27 in the front of your solid axle rig is slim. I also think the smaller bronco's and ranger's used a modified d27 center section in their TTB setups.

Lots of ppl are building links out of square tubing. They are also using YJ bushings, and pipe to make the ends. Very effective and stong. DOM is about $ 6.5 for 1.75x.25 And that would make a good link for a mild wheeler. I believe you could make a complete set of links with just one stick for around 125 for the tubing. The ends are where it can get expensive. DirtyManche, what kinda of suspension are you going to build?

that thread just scratches the surface though. Since you don't have a lot of knowledge I suggest you research, and then ask lots more questions before you chunk down the kinda money a full traction kit demands.

My suspension seats were 179 a piece. :banana: Keep in mind that you get to pick the colors, and these are suspension seats, by far they are more comfortable then any other seat I have ever sat in. I know a couple of ppl running the plastic seats like you ordered, and they ran them for one run and then ordered a different style of seat. Trust me Your back and kidneys will thank you later in life

I am thinking of doing that myself :brows: Just remember if you do the shackle rerversal you will need a long spline driveshaft.

Also when you order shocks, you mihg tas well order some JKS or similar bayonet eliminators. They cost around 30 bucks, but allow you to run a Hoop hoop style shock, giving you more choices.

Stumpy... I must say this even scares me. And I have been known to do come crazy and stupid crap

Check out PRPseats.com Those are the seats I am running, and by far they are the most comfortable setas I have found. They also come in wide widths :brows: which make a difference for those of us who are fighting the battle of the bulge and loosing :banana: I could have told you that thoseplastics seats were going to beat your eyes out :nuts:

It depends on how much your budget is for shocks. Also I would advise you to wait till after you install your lift before ordering your shocks. That way you could get one that matched your rig after you flex it. I think when I was running the RE DB's I was runnning shocks that were 28" extended, with 26" front brakelines. For the rear I am not sure, it is going to depend on how you set-up your shshock mounts, and weather or not you keeep the stock upper mount AS for brand, I have had good success with sky jacker Nitor's and Doestch tech 3000.

all the same it should be interesting. Like I said I can only go buy what I have seen the guys in My club build their links out of :brows: There also never has been a link failure in the club yet

Full exo cage, and truggy it :nuts: never mind that just makes it rollover safe :banana:

The whole key to building a succesful engine.. it don't matter what it is, is good machine work, and good quality parts. Also since it sounds like you are unsure of what to do, it might be wise to do lots more research.

You all still use keys to start your rigs :nuts:

I ran the RE DB's for over a yr with stock uppers and lowers. By the time you buy all the upgrades from RE you could have bought a LA kit from another maker

Break something on your rig :evil: or go wheeling :shake: If you are tired of fabbing parts... we must repectfully revoke your member ship to this site :eek: confiscate your rig :deal: and sentence you to drive a toyota hybrid

OK. I know 2 ppl running custom 3links. They both used 21/4 x 3/8 DOM for their links, with Johnyy joints on the frame end and YJ bushings on the axle end. Their only complaint was the antisquat when going in reverse. Also you are suppose to put the 3 link on the pumpkin side. I think a radias arm setup like you have is fine if you put a better joint on the frame end. Your other option is to use your lowers and make a parrallel 4link with panhard rod. They give great flex, and axle stability, as well as offer killer flex, and very lil caster change in the suspension travel Now... as for building links out of poo pipe :eek: Sch 80 is strong, but nowhere near as strong as DOM. You might be able to compensate for the strength difference by going with thicker wall stuff, but I still think there are weakness's with your plan. Build it, wheel it, break it :popcorn: we wil all be here to listen to you whine when its al said and broken ;) As for calculating al those fancy numbers :dunno: I know there are programs out there that do it for you :smart:

I like it.. I almost thought Pong had a twin for a second :D Anyway I need more pics of that rig, and what his setup auctually is. Back on to the motor swap thing.A v-8, or a V-6 would almost be easier then putting the stock motor back. Like has all ready been told get a dodoge drivel line, one that uses the hd 231,or the 242, and swap all of that over. Or you could do it likt I am going ot.... Get a running s-10, and gut it out to swap enger, ecu, tcm, and just make it run like heell.

I wouold send it back and get enother one, and this time have it packaged properly

The winshield is the most likely culprit. But water could aslo be coming in from around the fuse block, clutch slave cylinder, the steering column, or just about anyother small hole that is in your firewall.

Well on top of the obvious problem of, just getting the engine to run in a new vehicle. I would strongly suggest getting the whole vehicle, and then pulling the complete wiring harness, and motor. The Liberty T-case is a rather weak and problem prone thing that doesn't last very long 4 wheeling. There are also suspension issues, as the diesel engine weighs considerably more. Then Lastly there are smog issues. even though the new diesel is a cleaner burning motor, there might be issues with it passing smog cause of the visual inspection aspect. If this is a non issue, then you are good, but as more states have to put up with the Feds stringent clean air act, smog testing is coming to a city near you with time

I would check al light bulbs. I know on Pong if any one light is not working right they all do screwy things.

Chromoly tubing requires TIG welding, and Not many ppl have that kinda skill, or equipment. :brows: What kinda bender did you have? also what dies do you have? Just wondering ;)

The CARC paint, is very dangerous. Not only when sprayed, but when it flakes off, or is sanded.

I am sure Pete is running the matched Rear axle to the front d44, and I am almost popsitive the came out of the same vehicle :nuts: The advantages are many to the 9" like price, and strength. Also it is cheaper to build a 9" then it is a d44, and I almost want to say there is more aftermarket support also. He used what are commonly referred to as full width axles where as the GW axles are not full width.