Geonovast

Ok, now I'm a little confused. Are you getting a 4wd transmission and T-case, or just the T-case? A T-case will not bolt up to a 2wd transmission. Going from a 2wd Pukey to a 4wd AX-15/231, without the full 4wd conversion is simple. 1. Obviously the trans and T-case. 2. If the trans is from a 93, it's probably an external slave. You should be able to use your current clutch line, with maybe a bit of an extension to get it to the slave. 3. In 92 they changed the pilot tip size and the bore size in the crank, so to put 92+ trans behind a 87-91 4.0 you need the 74 CJ 304 pilot bushing. 4. AX-15 crossmember + mount. 5. Shortened rear driveshaft. That should be it. You don't need any of the linkage stuff to get it to work, since you'll stay in 2wd, but if you can get it... it's not a bad idea to put it in now. This will prevent you from needing to deal with the trans would you decide to go 4wd, and it would give you a 2wd low range option.

Given his 4.0 is an 88, I'm assuming he's just upgrading from a pukey. What year is the AX-15? If it's 92+ You'll need the 74 CJ 304 pilot bushing.

Do you mean NP 231? The 272 on the tag is 2.72, which is the low range gear ratio. Both the NP231 and NP242 have the 2.72:1 low range. Also, the NP 231 is the only transfer case that the MJ got 87-92. For the most part, it's a direct swap, as long as they have the same splined input shafts. You'll also need the shift gate, bezel, and linkages for the NP242. You'll also need to either lock the CAD in the front axle or install a one piece shaft. Breaking the CAD with a 231 or a 242 in part time just means losing power to the front, but could grenade the case in full time.

Really the only way it could have happened is if the chain got loose from stretching, and jumped a tooth.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14975

Surely you mean .035" :yes:

There's something about our motors that can cause the platinum tips to break off, which can cause severe damage to the piston and cylinder wall. The chances of that happening are pretty low, but platinums give no noticeable gain in power or mileage, so why chance it?

Generally platinums are ill advised for the 2.5 and 4.0. You'll be just fine with NGK or Champion coppers.

It's probably an issue with your ISP. You may be sending the information, your computer and/or internet times out for a second, then resubmits, but CC receives it twice.

Did you also replace the main negative battery cable from the block to the battery? That was most likely initially the problem. The battery to body cables are meant to be supplementary, not primary. They're good to have, but you should replace the main from the battery to the block, and probably the block to firewall strap too while you're at it.

Generally when one runs a doubler, the front case is just the reduction unit section, and the offshoot part of the case for the front output is hacked off. The back case is a standard T-case. What this gives you is the option for a very low crawl ratio. Lets say you have an AX-15, with a 231, and 4.10 geared axles. Your crawl ratio is determined by your transmission's lowest gear ratio, multiplied by the transfer case's low range ratio, times the axle ratio. So the above combo would have a crawl ratio of 3.83(AX-15's first gear) x 2.72(NP 231's low range) x 4.10(axle) = 42.71:1 Adding the second T-case reduction unit gives you the option of reducing that to 116.78:1 In case you don't know what the crawl ratio is, it means that the motor will have to spin x number of times for the wheels to turn once. Taking that from 42.71 to 116.78 makes it much easier on the motor, and better for certain offroad conditions. It also gives you an easy choice for 2wd LOW, by just activating the front case's reduction unit. If you picked two t-cases with different low range ratios, it also gives you 3 low range choices instead of 2. What the OP had done, however, is usually not how it's done. He's basically just bolted them together, which makes it way too long, puts a great deal of extra stress on the cast aluminum casings, and it would appear he's made it impossible to bolt up a front driveshaft.

Crossbar? You mean the transmission crossmember? No difference between 2wd and 4wd ones.

You can bolt a T-case to the back of a 4wd unit. 4wd units do not have provisions for a speedometer gear. You CANNOT bolt a T-case to the back of a 2wd unit.

I wouldn't worry about the gearing, your AW-4 will do fine with 4.10 and 31s. AW-4s and AX-15s have either identically geared or extremely close geared overdrives(depends on the year of AW-4), so your cruising RPMs shouldn't change. Around town should be about the same too, if you spent most of your time in 4th. AX-15's 4th is 1:1, as is the AW-4's 3rd.

Yes, you'll need all the wiring.

I have the forum bookmarked directly.

Get over yourself. 4.0 MJs are not plentiful in most places. For most of us, we just can't "go get a 4.0 MJ".

It won't.

Doesn't hurt to sink the couple bucks into a cap, rotor, plugs, and wires either. Fuel filter and a bottle of injector cleaner are also good ideas.

You were under the hood? Was it a V6, a 4 cylinder, or an inline 6?

95 gauges will not work. You did not find an 89 with a factory 2.8 in it. Last year for the 2.8 was 86. If someone swapped in a 2.8, they need to be slapped.

If the top of the coolant is rainbowy, there's oil in it.

You weren't around when the thread was made, but we did a kind of survey to see what we had as far as year, engine, trans, etc. Here's the year/wheel base graph from that thread viewtopic.php?f=3&t=21310

4.0

This is even worse than the first time.