Geonovast

If they're crushing that truck PLEASE someone steal it.

There must be a dozen guys on here who have piles of D35s in the scrap pile that they could yoink spiders from.

Any chance we can get the logo on the upper left of the screen to default to the forums page instead of the news page?

Eagle, everything you posted is for 4wd only, correct? The 2wd stuff is a completely different animal.

There are several brake generations. You should be able to get away with swapping steering knuckles, instead of the whole axle. But you'd need the knuckle, unit bearing, and caliper for the year brakes you're using.

If you're fine with a floor shift, I would go that route. Just rob the floor shift kit from an XJ and you're good.

410 and 12 gauge shotgun shells are actually different though.

Is there a seminar or something I can attend to get used to the new format?

I don't.... I don't like change... My first reaction when I hit the bookmark was "OH DEAR GOD WHERE THE HELL IS CC?" Then I was like "oh". I don't like it because it's new, but I'll get used to it.

The same reason CAT5e and CAT6 wall jacks are different prices. It's labeled differently.

It would appear Rob has forgotten something...

I think someone needs to give him a tape measure.

I'd get one if there was a version of the program for Windows..

99 XJ 4.0/AW4/231. I've had the truck for almost 3 years, and up until recently it was pulling 21-22 on the highway consistently. I was ok with this. About 2 months ago or so, my mileage tanked to about 14-15. Wasn't any effect on power. The last few days however, I've noticed that once I get above 50 mph, the thing just doesn't want to really go. I can get it up to 75, but it takes much longer than usual and requires more pedal to keep it there. Also, every once in awhile, it will have a massive loss in power right when I'm starting to drive. I'll start it up, put it in drive, give it some gas, and it just falls flat on its face as if I'm suddenly trying to get 10,000 lbs moving behind me. It'll do that for 2-3 seconds, has backfired on me, and then it'll be fine for the rest of the drive. I'm leaning toward some kind of fuel delivery problem, but not really sure where to start. Unfortunately my fuel pressure tester is inaccessible.

On what? The 8.25 wasn't used on the XJ until 93-94ish.

Most of us would pay good money for a 92 0wd in good shape.

D35 and D44 snout lengths are different, so they do not use the same driveshaft. Many things affect the driveshaft length.. engine, trans, T-case, bed length. If the JY MJ matches your truck perfectly on all that, you'll want to grab that one, otherwise your best bet will probably be having yours shortened.

The draglink itself has nothing to do with the alignment as long as the hole where the tierod attaches is in the exact same place... which I cannot see it being different. The turnbuckle is for steering wheel centering only.

I thought normal members could only delete posts if they were the most recent post in the thread. Once someone replies, you can't delete yours. As of right now I'm the newest post and I can delete...

The video's gone. But if it's what I think it is, it doesn't work. Mythbusters proved it wrong and it makes sense why. Yes, you can re-seat the tire with this method, but it doesn't stay inflated. The gas compresses so much when it cools down that it goes right back to flat.

Quite impressive to do that kind of a swap in one day, sir.

Maybe because the Jeep was designed as an off-road vehicle, they went with a clutch that would be easier to feather on rough terrain?

If all else fails, Jim has one.

Interesting. I always thought the flywheels were one solid piece.... I guess that's what I get for never really seeing a new one.