Geonovast

Or were alive in them... Vintage 1987 right here. But that aside, All I've ever had was Jeeps. My dad bought our first XJ in 95, and when I came of age to drive I really wanted a Comanche, but I settled for an XJ cause it was what I wanted drivetrain wise and actually finding an MJ was not easy. I'd gotten a lot of crap in HS for having my little rustbucket 88 XJ cause it wasn't a "truck", but no matter what was wrong with it, the damn thing always moved. I think the biggest selling point on why the Comanche is so great is because it's a Jeep. And a truck. Oh, and they only made them for 6 years but really don't have problems finding parts.

Ignition switch.

That brownish liquid that comes out the bottom? Yeah... that ain't coffee...

Is it something thats fixable for a newbie like me to do without bringing it in? my xj is rusted everywhere, theres alot of little things wrong with it. it would take more work than I'm willing to invest in it, so i would rather just get something else thats in better condition Depends. The root cause of it, usually, is tires. So you may have to get new tires. Shocks you should be able to do as well, but that generally isn't it. I would check your control arm bushings, see if they're really cracked, have chunks missing, etc. Also, jack up each wheel, hug the tire, and see if you can move it back and forth at all. That could show you a bad wheel bearing or ball joints. Junk U-joints can also cause it. Turn the wheel all the way so you can get in there, grab both shafts, and see if there's any play.

Ooooo! Can I? Can I? Can I?

I don't know if what it's doing is similar... but I have an aftermarket cruise system that gets its power from the main power wire under the dash. Everytime the truck would be shut off, once started and warmed up it would miss, act like it was learning.(Even tried shutting it off while driving, then immediatly started again and it did it.) However, if I leave the cruise power on, even if not activated, and I shut the truck off, once I get going again it doesn't miss at all. I still get horrible mileage, but it remembers what its doing. This really tells me the ECU or one of the few sensors I haven't changed yet is shot.

Train?

I've never heard of that. It doesn't make sense. Doesn't the T-case engage the front D.S. similar to engaging gears in a manual transmission? I haven't had one apart, but from googling it, the system looks identical. I would think there's a problem with the linkages/T-case itself. Maybe the spring to push the fork back is worn out?

I don't think you have to, but it sure makes it easier.

You can do all kinds of things with any motor if you really want to. I saw a volkwagon rabbit run a 7.6 quarter with the original 1.6L motor(SAW at a track, not a vid), but converted to RWD. The wheelie bars were almost as long as the car.

So true. When I was about 12, I left my mom's $300 konica minolta out in the rain. Bad plan. She then went to Wal Mart and got me a shotty $10 camera so I'd never touch hers again.

I don't know how many of you read novels, I used to breeze through one a week. Not too much anymore. I saw in the paper today that Michael Crichton died of cancer on tuesday. He was 66. For those that don't know who he was, he wrote Jurrassic Park, Sphere, Congo, The Andromeda Strain. I still remember going to the outdoor/drive-in theatre to see Jurrassic Park. I was only six, but I remember.

They got cameras that do that for you now...

You'd think... my brother won't let me take 29 spline shafts and spiders out of his 8.25 and put my 27 spline stuff in.. I told him he'd get a free axle oil change out of it, but still no. :roll:

lol...well, I had an extra ECU sitting around (the extra that came with that 93 XJ that was sittin here for awhile) and I'd thrown it in, but it wouldn't run with it. Either it's dead, or for a 4.0. There's no stickers on it, and since the Chrystler 4.0 and 2.5 ECUs use the SAME DAMN CASE, the only way I would know is to throw it in the 4.0. The original ECU from that truck is on it's way, but unfortunatly I don't think that's the problem anymore. If you forget again... just look down a few pixels.. ...................| ...................| ..................\ / ...................v

Looks like a nice place... is that around where you live? As for the not being level...that's what photochop is for If you don't have photochop and would like it, feel free to pm me...

You also don't need an auto trans to run a 242. You can run it behind a manual as well. I think it was just only offered from the factory like that, because "obviously" anyone that can't be bothered of pulling a lever when 4wd is needed wouldn't want to have to shift while driving. :nuts: Then, of course, there's people like me(and I'm sure I'm not the only one here) who are initially baffled at the lack of a clutch pedal when climbing into an automatic and shuts the motor off before putting in it park... That being said, I would like to add that the only Jeep in my sig that was an automatic was the J10, and that was in the process of a 5 speed swap when I had to get rid of it.

I was thinking that too, which would explain why it starts up when the thermostat opens. But what still baffles me...is why does it stop? I don't seem to be losing coolant, and I don't think any's getting into the oil, at least.

Changed the plugs, #1 was full of crap, #2-#4 looked normal. Figured since the plugs were coming out anyway, I'd do a compression test. #2, #3, and #4 held fine at 130psi. #1, however, was bleeding off when I got to look at the gauge, but I do know it at least got to above 100 psi. So now it's looking like something's working its way into the cylinder and gumming up the spark plug.

Changed the plugs, #1 was full of crap, #2-#4 looked normal. Figured since the plugs were coming out anyway, I'd do a compression test. #2, #3, and #4 held fine at 130psi. #1, however, was bleeding off when I got to look at the gauge, but I do know it at least got to above 100 psi. So now it's looking like something's working its way into the cylinder and gumming up the spark plug.

91, so Chrystler.

91, so Chrystler.

Pretty schnifty. Did a little upgrading to mine too last night...

Pretty schnifty. Did a little upgrading to mine too last night...

That's not the concern. The problem is the same as driving in 4wd on dry pavement. The driveshafts will still spin regardless of what the T-case is in. If there's even a slight difference in tire size between the front and rear axles, it will cause the driveshafts to want to spin at different speeds. When that happens, you're risking breakage. Unless you have a Full Time case or a manually actuated vac disconnect on the front axle you're risking breaking something unless you drop the front shaft.