Geonovast

Putting an Ax-15 in there is too much fab work unless you really, really want that trans in there. Replacing the input bearing is going be much more simple. After you get the trans out, pop the bellhousing off, and the bearing retainer. Then there's 8ish bolts that go through one housing, the midplate, and into the other housing. If you take all those out, the front housing will come off(you have to help the bearings out of the housing). I'm sure you'll need a press to get that bearing off, and probably need the shaft itself off. To get the shaft off, you need to pop the c-clips off the midplate bearing on the layshaft, then slide it forward enough so the input shaft will slide off. Don't lose any of the bearings for the input sliding over the output shaft. Best pic I have of when I had mine apart.

Your easiest option will to take the vac housing off the axle, and simply shim the shift fork over so it's always engaged. Since you have a 242, you'd want it like that with the AWD anyway. Even the older XJs with the 242 from factory had the non-disco axles.

I have a BA 10/5 shifter sitting around that you can have for a couple bucks.

That's a Jeep console, some of them did come with cupholders. That part is just and insert, and I believe you can buy NOS ones.

"4.0 eng that replaced the original 4.2" Uhhhh

There's no need to restrict yourself to a 97 - 99 D30. ALL XJ/MJ D30s are High Pinion, and the non-CAD axles were available through most of the years(if not all), just only with Select-Trac in the earlier years. If you can't get ahold of a non-CAD, there's really nothing wrong with the disco ones. You haven't broken the one you have now, right? Unless you're going to be doing a decent amount of wheeling, you shouldn't fret over it. And since you use it as a camper truck, you'd probably better off with a disco to squeeze whatever you can out of that $3.85 a gallon you dumped into it.

I'm sure it wasn't common, but entirely possible that someone ordered it that way, or someone already had one re-geared. I just wanted to clarify that the axle would physically be bolted in.

They are different. The one on renix the flange faces down and the HO ones turn a little. I thought they didnt fit on renix? Do you just have to use the down pipe from the HO too? I believe so.

Alignments are easy enough to do yourself. I've done several and no problems. http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html

hey, i've got zero problem working on your stuff...we just gotta get it done! stop working on that xj and lets get the darned MJ lifted locked and loaded! lol, I know, I'm just saying I'm not gonna haul out to your place if all I need to do is change a valve cover gasket or put in brake pads.

Never use anything on it.

Auto shutoff relay? I can't remember if the Renix ones have it. I know with this frikin XJ sitting here, after I swapped yet another pump into it, it wouldn't prime, wouldn't prime, then on a whim swapped the autoshutoff relay an it would prime again. Just an idea.

I torqued them on my 88 to 105 and had no problems with it. The truck did have overheating problems after, but they were there before and unrelated to the head. Warned ya :P I've known of many issues with them stretching after re-using, but not breaking during installation. Sucks that it broke on you. I re-used them when I did the headgasket on my 88, luckily I didn't break any.

Yeah I'm not either lol, but I do anyway, since there's a lack of anywhere else to do anything except to drive an hour to Jeepco's. Tack on that there's no way in hell I'm gonna pay someone to screw up an oil change.

Shouldn't that be XJ/MJ/TJ/ZJ?

A cheap upgrade is simply a 91+ HO manifold. They went with a header style with the HO 4.0.

I too live in a trailer park, but my carport looks.....nothing like that. More like this ... except right now there's a non-running XJ sitting there too. And because of that there's a HUGE oil/coolant stain as well. Once that XJ's gone (either fixed or scrapped) I gotta get it cleaned up.

Use the bronco and the MJ at the same time.

He's got no idea. It's stock and he doesn't do any trailriding whatsoever. My guess is the PO bent it a little bit and just regular driving worked it to where it is.

I grabbed everything else under there there was no play in anything whatsoever, but the edge of the bumpstop is about 1/4 in from the coil.

Are the front bumpstops for the ZJ the same as the XJ? They look identical. A guy my mom works with managed to slightly bend one and it's rubbing on the spring, causing a popping noise when he turns. Oh, 97 ZJ, 318

I don't think the two conversations going in this thread could be any more dissimilar.:nuts: I think I'll go with the oil dry and then pressure wash it. The management here is very picky with their concrete, I'm sure they'd flip if they found out I'd used acid on my driveway. They don't even salt the roads when there's a solid inch of ice because it may eventually cause damage to the concrete. And I live in probably a 75% elderly community.

For the D30 it would be cheaper and easier to just find a new axle and swap it. Try searching for a a new 44, but that you will probably have to have re-geared.

Alright...he's got a 4.0 MJ with a 5 speed. 31 inch tires. Camper. If he's sitting on 3.07s, that alone would explain the power loss. What gearing do you have?

I've always wondered HOW they work. How do you send power and/or air pressure to the carrier?