Geonovast

I love seeing wrong information on CL, especially Jeep stuff. Most common is the misspelling of charakee and commannchee, and the ever-famous 4.0L V6. But this one really cracked me up. WTB - 86-89 Jeep Comanche 2.5 engines only Running condition perferably Low mileage would be appreciated Call Jeff 1-920-xxx-xxxx So I emailed him a friendly bit of info to help his search... "I don't know if you know this already, but 1990 was also TBI motors. Cherokee motors will also be the same. Unfortuantly I personally do not have a motor for it. If you have a Comanche or just an interest in them, I invite you to visit http://www.comancheclub.com and join the forums!" He sent back... "Correy, The Cherokee or any of the 4X4s have the 6 cylinder motors in them. Looking for a 2.5 4 cylinder. Thanks........." Not saying everyone should know everything about these, but just the way he said it seemed like he was trying to inform me I was wrong. I got a giggle out of it, I thought you might too.

Been doing some more work on this thing... T-case... axles... I felt I'd share an update because I successfully created a properly working double-cardan joint for the front driveshaft. There is a front axle on it but I didn't take a pic of it, because there's no knuckles/wheel joint on it yet.

If you pay for gas I'll come up and help you move. :thumbsup: I know how some of that stuff goes... I had a major water/mold problem because the genius that remodled this place before I bought it decided to repair the frozen pipes by using garden hose and standard hose clamps to splice soft copper pieces together. And not just soft copper pieces, different sized pipe due to one of them freezing. He did it on both cold and hot pipes in two places and of course drywalled over them, and neglected to inform me of them.

The measurements can be tricky, since remember the front and back moves when you adjust it. You can move it most of the way with the tires off, but be sure to double check once the wheels are back on and the truck is supporting itself, so the suspension is at ride compression, and you'll probably have to do some minute adjustments after that. If you start wailing on the top of it like it's in the picture, you'll mush the hell out of the threads and the nut will never go back on right. As Pete would say, no apologizing for questions. :no: :thumbsup:

If you like grease fires and wanna ruin the TRE that might work. :cheers:

I would soak the threads on the TREs with PB every couple hours for a day and then try again. I had to get a vice grips on mine and tap it with a hammer a few times to get it going, then it just turned really hard, because the wheels were on the ground.(I hope you're not adjusting with the wheels off) You can get the TRE out with one of these, but it'll wreck the boot and it's just way more work than it's worth. I would hope it's obvious to NOT hit the TRE with a hammer. :rotfl2:

OMG, it's Ironic! :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

Shop I had my DS cut down at has Genuine Spicer Joints posters plastered everywhere, so that's where I got my spicer joints..

At a glance I was basing it off of this.. But I went and looked at the 8.25 diff cover and I see the full curvature of the bolt pattern. My bad... :doh: :dunce:

Bleed the clutch. You're lucky and have an external setup. When you do though, take the slave off the bellhousing and make sure it stays completely compressed while you bleed it.

Looks an awful lot like a D35 to me...

So you're saying they took a 4.0 out and put in a 2.8? I stay away from eBay as best I can... gets me in trouble.

Looks like an XJ ad. :thumbsup:

I got my first XJ when I was 16, second XJ when I was 17, J10 when I was 18, first MJ when I was 19, second MJ when I was 20. I was hooked long before then though, when I was 7 or 8 my Dad got our first XJ, and since then we've been driving Jeeps pretty much exclusively.(See sig) I wanted an MJ for my first one though... saw a beut in MA on eBay I wanted.. 92/4.0/swb/5 speed/4x4, didn't see any rust, but me being 15 and jobless my parents said no. :nuts: So I painted this of it..

How's reverse work? If either of the layshaft bearings are going out, I would bet it either won't go into reverse, or it would make A LOT of noise. You said you replaced the fluid... was there any metal shavings on the magnet on the plug? Not really, the AX-4/5 is a very sturdy transmission for it's size, and for being considered a "light duty" trans. If the trans was failure prone, they wouldn't have used it for more than 15 years. After all, Jeep did away with the pukey after 2 1/2, and threw in the AX-5's big brother. Gee, I can't imagine why.

Wow, did not know about this, count me in.

God that almost made me puke... I think at LEAST a NSFW should be throw in the title.. I thought this was some kind of joke.

Be 22 on July 6th :rant: gettin too old.

I've taken my 2.5 on 1000 mile round trip 3 times, 205/75/R15s, 3.55, keeping it in 4th most of the way, averaging about 3400 RPM most of the time. Went 3-4 hours with keeping it at least that high and if anything, I think it's helped to work out whatever bug that truck has. Oh, and I just did the math too... you should be running a hair above 2500 RPM at 65mph/5th/4.10/28" tires.

Center hole on the Ford rims is bigger, so you might try a set of those if you can't get your stockers to fit.

Flexplate to Converter bolts you can check by pulling off the inspection cover. Flexplate to Crank bolts, tranny has to come out. I would drop the front shaft off and take it for a drive to see if the ticking is still there.

The ZJ wiring harness is a lot different than the XJ/MJ ones, so you're probably going to need to do some creative rigging to get it in. IIRC there are actual differences in some of the motor accessories too.

IIRC MOPAR Performance has three cams available for the 4.0.

It's not being forced to turn. But it can. The shafts in the bearings that are attached to the chain are still turning, so there is a minute frictional connection between the T-case output and the front DS. The outer shafts in the front axle are also turning, and all the components are still frictionally connected, so with everything spinning at hundreds, if not thousands of RPMs, the front DS has a very good chance of spinning. I seriously doubt the spiders in the front diff can take that much abuse. If the front DS didn't spin at all, that means the middle shaft in the front axle would have to be spinning backwards at the same speed everything else is going forward. Or this could all be a bunch of hooey, since I personally don't have the ability to mount a camera to the bottom of my truck to check to see if it spins in 2wd, as my 4x4 is a NON- CAD. This is just what makes sense in the dangerous place of my mind.

Any XJ, MJ, ZJ, or TJ axle will be able to physically bolt in. There are several brake generations you need to worry about, as well as 00-01 XJ, ZJ, and TJ axles will be LP.