Geonovast

The 242 is selectable. 242 has; 2wd 4wd Part Time 4wd Full Time Neutral 4wd Lo His problem is that the linkage will only allow him to have the first 4 or the last 4.

I don't know of any JY MJs around here, but you're going to be zooming by about 8 miles from my house. You're more than welcome to stop by and rummage through my small stash of parts to see if there's anything you need.

Yup, that's a 44.

This is true for the older AX-5's to BA10/5...so I would assume it's true for the AX-4? My buddies 2001 TJ with 2.5/AX-5...short input shaft. My 86 MJ with 2.8/AX-5...longer input shaft. My 87 MJ with 4.0/BA 10/5...short input shaft. Hope that helps. Yup, I mentioned that because they did away with the AX-4 ~92 I believe, and I think the change from the long to short was a few years after that.

The cases from the AX-4 and BA 10/5 are probably also different input lengths, too.

I could maybe see paying 5k for one that looks better than it did when it rolled out of the factory. Maybe.

I used Seafoam to stop a lifter tick and it worked. That's all I've ever used. Is this stuff similar?

By pulling the shafts out, popping the backing plates off and leaving them attached to the truck. You mean leaving the wheel cylinders attached? Won't work. They aren't the same part number for the 9" and the 10" brakes. Plus, if you leave the hose attached to the wheel cylinder, there's no way to remove the 9" backing plate and install the 10". The truck already has the D35 with the 10" brakes. I want to remove the axle from the backing plates, leave them attached to the truck, and put the 10" backing plates on the 8.25, so that none of the brake lines ever have to be removed. This is what I was thinking. If you guys still think it's not feasible I'll spring for the new 9" stuff.

By pulling the shafts out, popping the backing plates off and leaving them attached to the truck.

Not all of them. Damn Jeeps..

Diggin the 5 1/4" floppy :rotf:

Sway bar discos look like the should work, but I would have him measure them to see how close they are/can be to 3" over stock. Do you mean the big bracket on the top of the pic for the trackbar? Looks like the stock bracket to me.

Where are you located? If you're close by to the Madison, WI area, I have a 4wd BA 10/5 you can HAVE.

You cannot simply throw a transfercase onto a 2wd transmission. You will need a 4wd transmission. For some reason I must've misread your original post and thought you 87 was already an automatic. :doh: If you're referring to the BA 10/5, then yes, it's not a desirable transmission. Idealy you'd want to find an AX-15 to throw in. You'd be looking at less work to retain a 5 speed and throw in an AX-15, but you'd have to find one. The T-case that's on the back of the tranny in the XJ should bolt up to an AX-15. AX-15s can be found in any mid 89-99 XJs and mid 89-92 Comanches with the 4.0/5 speed. I believe the changeover was the same for the YJ, so mid 89-95 YJ and 97-99 TJ. If you do go with the auto, I know you'll need a Renix era flexplate, I'm not sure which converter you can use. Your easiest and cheapest route would be to get a 4wd BA 10/5 + TC to throw in. It would go right in with no modification. You could then slowly assemble all the parts needed for an AX-15 swap, and just throw that in if the BA grenades on you. The T-case in your XJ will not bolt up to a 4wd BA 10/5. Also, what I said earlier about the front driveshaft will only work if you put the automatic in. The autos are about an inch longer than the manuals(BA 10/5 and AX-15 are the same length), and if you use the auto shaft with the 5 speed, the slipjoint will be compressed more than usual and you could run into binding issues.

The D35 used the 10 inch and the 9 inch brakes. Changeover was around 91 with the switch to the C-clip axle. The 9 inch backing plates for the D35 and 8.25 are identical except the center hole on the 8.25 is a tad bigger. Brakes aren't something I'd normally want to reuse like this, but I really don't have money completely replace all of them, and If I can get away with not bleeding brakes that would be best. I can always get newer brakes down the road once I find some money. I'm going with an 8.25 because I can get an XJ 3.55 8.25 for free and have the D30 for it already. 4.0 auto on 3.07s SUCKS. If the brakes look horrible when I pull the drums I'll replace them, but I just wanted to see if anyone had done it and if there was anything specific I'd have to do. :dunno:

Well yes. Because you need a different transmission. The AX-5 WILL NOT bolt up the 4.0. There is no bellhousing for it, and if it did, the transmission would detonate. You will need either a BA 10/5 or AX-15. But don't get the BA 10/5.

For a $50 deposit I can see about renting the clubhouse here in the park. Plenty of room for everyone to crash there. :dunno:

Keep in mind that you will need a new transmission for a 4.0 swap.

I'm going to be putting an 8.25 in my XJ soon to do away with the D35 and the 3.07 gearing. I really don't have the money to replace all the brake components, and with all the rust under there I know bleeding brakes would involve breakage. If I pull the shafts out and take the backing plates off will the 10 inch backing plates go on the 8.25? I've been told the 9 inch ones will, so I thought I'd check. 88 D35, so non-c clip axle if it matters.

If anything the top of the cylinder wall would be a minutely smaller diameter, so the piston would actually free up when it got past the top. It's gotta be the wrong rings. 4.4 vs. 4.6 is a big difference when you're talking about clearances that get measured down to the 0.001". 0.2mm is ~0.0078"

I really don't know how the wiring for the AW-4 or what generations will interchange. I know you will have to use a TCU, as for if your current one will work, someone else will have to chime in. After 7 XJs and 3 MJs only my most recent, my 8th XJ, has been an automatic. I haven't had it for a month yet and haven't had to make any major repairs, so when it comes to the autos, I'm at a loss. If you feel like converting to a 5 speed, however, I should be able to help you out with most of that.

Do both trucks have the same motor? Computer has nothing to do with the transfercase. That's all manually controlled with the shifter. Your front driveshaft will fit, you will need to have a rear one made. (Cut down your 2wd one) Axle will be a direct swap bolt in swap. You'll need to bleed brakes however, since you need to retain the 98 brakes. The front of MJs is supposed to sit lower. Most pickups do. It's so the rear doesn't sag when you're loaded down-you just even out. As for the Transmission. I'm not 100% sure on the inner workings of the AW-4. I do know, however, that the 98's ECU controls the transmission, and does not have a separate TCU.

I'm in Central Missouri quite often. If something was going on around the Lake Ozark area when I'm down here, I'd definitely try to make it.

I've noticed several times recently that people have been posting random threads that don't seem to make sense, because they accidentally click the New Topic button instead of the Post Reply button. Pete: It's not really a problem, but would the software let you move those buttons a little farther apart? I don't even understand why the New Topic button is there when you're reading a thread.

Never have to crawl under to do anything with the fuel pump again. :thumbsup: