Geonovast

I ask about the original trans, because if you're going from a BA to an AX-15, you'll need a different pilot bushing. There's a very accurate way of testing the clutch setup with an external without having the trans in. I highly recommend doing this, especially since you already have to change the bellhousing. When you get all your parts together, bolt the clutch and PP up like normal, using the alignment tool. Then, put the throwout arm, bearing, and slave assembly on the bellhousing. Bolt the bellhousing to the motor. Hook up all your slave hydraulics, make sure you have the line out of the way of where the transmission will go. (I can't remember which side the AX-15 slave is on, but I had to do that with mine, because the 93 AX-5 slave is on the passenger side.) Take the slave off the housing and bleed it. The slave cylinder has to be completely compressed to bleed it properly. They sell a special tool for it, but you can use an old exhaust clamp flange and some long bolts. Once it's bled, reattach the slave to the housing, and have someone in the truck working the pedal. When the clutch isn't pushed in, you should not be able to turn the clutch with the alignment tool. Have them push in the clutch. You should be able to turn the tool freely. If it doesn't work, either it's not completely bled or there's a problem with the pushrod length. Once you get the clutch all working correctly, take the slave off the bellhousing. and the bellhousing back off the motor, attach to the trans, and install normally. The test takes a bit of your time, but it will prevent you from having to take the trans out multiple times if there's clutch problems.

:agree:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14904&p=150303

Is there already an internal slave AX-15 in the truck, or are you going from a BA 10/5 to an AX-15 at the same time?

Diodes are basically one-way current valves. I'd imagine it's to prevent the fan from becoming a generator and somehow pumping excess power into the system when it's not on.

Sweet. That'll come in handy in a few months.

Yeah I'm calling BS on that as well.

Was out checking the XJ to answer another question and found this. At 90 deg it's too hot to crawl underneath and see where this goes... but any ideas?

What year was the donor?

My 88 has a plug there that's not plugged into anything.

You'll need: External slave bellhousing (any 94+ bell should be external) Bearing retainer Throwout arm Throwout bearing External slave Different clutch line(I went from an internal AX-4 to an external AX-5 and used the clutch line from my 88 4.0 BA 10/5) I'm not 100% sure, but I think the pressure plate may be different. Hardest part is getting a new clutch line in there. Everything else is a direct swap.

Well the good thing is you definitely have an AX-15. I seriously doubt 23 spline shafts even exist for the BA 10/5. AFAIK, the XJ/MJ/YJ were the only 4wd vehicles to use that transmission.

How much was/is it? My gf's gonna pop end of next month ish.

Yes, the oil pump is inside the pan. Do you have a pressure gauge?

That's why your next one is a "disorder"

The tensioner will probably not come with a timing kit. You may want to get the kit anyway, as slop in the chain may have allowed it to stretch. I bought a replacement tensioner once, and the cheapest I found was $28 for that stupid thing.

Are there any clocking rings for your tranny/t-case combo? If you can angle the T-case drop a degree or two it might help. :dunno:

Well, if you're seeing performance from it, then disregard what I said before. Cowl the hood to make room for it. :brows:

When I got my 4.0 I'd known about it for about 2 days, knew it was a little rough, and it was $750. I went out to where it was without a ride back if I didn't buy it. No pictures, never even talked to the owner, worked through a middle man. Granted, the middleman was JeepcoMJ, but still.

Are you talking about going from a TBI 4 cylinder to an MPFI 4 cylinder? Cause if you are, it doesn't apply here. He's got a 6 cylinder. All 4.0s are MPFI.

The ignition switch itself may be dead. I'd probe around under there with the key on to see if you're getting any power. Check the power wire going to the ECU as well.

Every single time is more likely to be the IAC.

None of which need to be removed if he's just pulling the fuel rail. Still even with all that ren mentioned, IMHO it's much less hassle to remove the manifold and set it off out of the way if you're working on the exhaust.

Was that sarcasm? Let me apologize for everyone on this board who didn't want to explain the entire process again, because at least 3 threads asking this very question seem to come up every month. Many, many people have done this swap. There are probably dozens of threads on it. You need to do some searching. Check the DIY forum. Peruse through the tech forum. Going from a 2.5 is the same as going from a 2.8, or from renix 4.0 to HO 4.0. Tons of people on here have 31s on their trucks. It's not a problem.

Pull the whole intake manifold off. That'll get it out of the way if you need to work on the exhaust. Otherwise, there should be the 6 plugs on the injectors, 3(IIRC) bolts holding it on, the two fuel lines, vacuum line to the regulator, and carefully pull the injectors out of the manifold. Pick up a new set of injector O-rings before re-installation. Not recommended to re-used those. I'd just pull the manifold off. Remove the airbox first though, makes everything a lot easier.