Geonovast

I would probably pay half that. If it had more options, or didn't need a complete exterior overhaul, I could pay closer to his asking price, but she needs a lot of TLC.

Not if it was the original T-case. Did you put the older 231 in?

Yup, unless you have an 86.

Got any pics of what was damaged?

I sure hope you fixed that. it's usually just a vacuum leak at the vacuum reservoir. :thumbsup: I had an identical problem in one of my MJs. Turned out to be a big crack in the vacuum blimp. Replaced it, and all was well again.

If it's the older style sensor, unscrew the sensor and screw the cable on. If it's a newer one, take the sensor out and put the cable sender in.

$#!& I turn 20 on the 29th and I feel old...But youre 25 now lol Ol' fart Le'sigh..

Last time I bought a complete kit, I got a Felpro, which ran me about $140ish. Make sure you get the rubber gaskets for oil pan and valve cover. A bit more expensive, but it is worth it many times over.

Check your fuse box to see if the clutch master cylinder decided to piss all over it. Also do a search for Cruiser's ground refreshing.

I don't even click if there's not a picture. So many people also tend to leave out whether or not it's a manual or automatic. Rather vital to most people buying a vehicle. I have the same issues with eBay. So many people post a freaking stock picture of what they're selling. The only way this is somewhat acceptable is if you're selling something new, which usually isn't the case.

Or the CPS connector. Isn't the CmPS for injector control? I thought it had nothing to do with spark.

Welcome! Could very easily be a 4 speed. I wish I'd found CC before I got my first MJ, I didn't know about the existance of the AX-4 at that point, and thought there was something wrong with the trans in it. (it had a 5 speed shift knob on it) My dad was able to get me good enough on a manual to go out on my own in about an hour. He would park on an incline facing upward, and have it roll backward slowly while I found the catch point. It's a little rough on the clutch, but didn't take me long to figure it out. Now I can't stand driving an automatic.

Do a fuel pressure test. Also, before you tackle the pump, bypass the ballast resistor to see if there's any effect, also change out the fuel filter (easy and cheap) Very high likely it's the CPS. Even dying CPSs can ohm out just fine. Cruiser has a slight modification that can help with a dying CPS, but it should still be replaced and not relied upon.

Yes, Pat, but if you were in this guy's exact position... needing enough to make it worth your time before you haul it to the scrap yard, there's two things you shouldn't do that he's doing. 1. Tell people it's going to the scrapyard if they don't buy it. 2. Destroying it when you take it there. If it's in good shape, the right person may see it in time and save it. It just doesn't make any sort of sense.

i can agree with this Maybe, but that attitude isn't helping. Sellers get pissy because of stupid buyers. Buyers get pissy because of stupid sellers. Threatening to throw it away unless someone buys it for what you want is not really acceptable if you want to sell it. I'd rather give something away that I know is rare than intentionally demolish it just so nobody can come by and get it later. This guy is a complete jackass, and clearly wants everyone to know it. Really makes you want to dangle something he's been seeking for years in front of his face, tell him he can't have it, and burn it right in front of him.

My brother has FCP, that's the whole reason he overpaid for a laptop. I fondly remember him freaking out over the 57 gigabyte installation.

Didn't you just have an issue?

Yup, doesn't matter since it's below the filter. :thumbsup:

I don't think $20 is unreasonable for a part that they stopped using 23 years ago. Unfortunately there were also many different lengths, so that's another reason it can be hard to get ahold of one.

Yes, it can be removed. No, you don't need a new air box. Why would you?

That vent dryer hose thing doesn't actually do much. It's just to help warm up air before it gets to the intake, it doesn't route any exhaust. If you pull it off the manifold, you'll see that there's no hole. The EGR uses an actual pipe that's threaded into both manifolds.

What kind of rebuilding wouldn't clean up the outside and paint it? Sounds like complete BS to me. There's no way a rebuilder is short on D35s, and they're not worth rebuilding anyway. You could easily score a D44 or 29 spline Chrysler 8.25 for less than $250.

There should be a round, flatish valve on the driver's side of the intake manifold. That's the actual EGR valve, which should be connected to point B.

I like the color, but not that they neglected to remove or tape over the Comanche emblem, as was done with the 4x4 one. Welcome! Pretty much anything you need to know can be found here. If you can't find it, just ask. :thumbsup:

I think we need a little more background, as I appear I was incorrect in assuming this was your truck. The brakes may very well be locking up if the new axle sat awhile or is misadjusted.