Geonovast

Would it be possible to make it so accounts cannot make any posts unless they've uploaded a profile picture and/or edited their signature? Should make it near impossible for spam accounts to function.

Is it an automatic? Also, if it was the NSS it most likely wouldn't crank at all.

2.5s run the coolant through the intake.

Yup, there would no longer be a connection between the alt and the battery.

I would replace it. If it's simply a matter of that diode being shorted, you'll charge fine, but it'll hum and drain the battery when it's off. But if that failed component becomes open, you're screwed. I have no idea if the diode itself can be replaced or not, but to be safe, I would replace the entire unit.

There is a harness, but nothing you should worry about. Lock the CAD, and plug the lines on the switch.

The actual switch is at the base of the column. It's also a possibility that the switch itself isn't dead, but the rod going from the tumbler to the switch is bent. (although unlikely)

It'll probably still function as usual, but could drain the battery if it's leaking current when the truck's off.

"Running fine" with the starter engaged isn't running. It's being turned by the starter. Have you verified fuel, spark?

I've dealt with a few 4wd AX-4/5s, but have never seen this. Have a pic?

I'll give it a shot. "If you have a 2wd transmission in your truck, your rear driveshaft won't work when you convert it to 4wd" Has already been covered twice in this thread. "The T-case has more splines than the output shaft of the 2wd transmission, I'm pretty sure. I just put an SYE kit straight in when I converted mine to 4wd." This is something I'm glad he brought up, as I constantly forget about it, despite having this issue myself. The 2wd AX-4/5 has a 21 spline output shaft. Our transfercases have a 27 spline output. OP will need a 4wd yoke. "And make sure you get all the mounting hardware for the shift linkages that bolts to the undercarriage. I think the front driveshafts are all the same between 4wd Comanches and Cherokees." Also been covered. Driveshafts are the same between XJs and MJs, but not the same between engine/trans/t-case combinations. OP needs a 4 cylinder manual from driveshaft for whichever T-case he gets. NP207 has a flange for a normal CV joint, NP231s have a yoke for a double cardan joint.

Not sure exactly what an exciter winding is, but a diode is basically a one way valve for electrical current. If it's shorted, it'll let power flow the wrong way when the alternator isn't turning. Could easily be the source of the humming sound.

And another thing... when you're looking for a trans and/or complete donor vehicle, try to shoot for a 94+ XJ with a 2.5. This will give you the external slave cylinder and the non-CAD Dana 30. 84-86 XJ will also give you an external slave, but a CAD axle, NP207 T-case, and a CV front driveshaft that's as thick as a twig.

Maybe doing this would help out first? http://comancheclub.com/topic/37834-renewed-tail-lights/ Don't know what condition your tails are in.

Sure thing. Keep me updated, it's been forever since I've done some real wrenching, if you plan on getting all the parts together and knocking it out at once, I'd be glad to lend a hand if able.

A parts XJ is ideal, except for one thing. While the AX-4 and AX-5 are basically identical, different axle ratios were used with them. The AX-4 received 3.55 gears, while the AX-5 received 4.10 gears, giving it a close final drive (3.55 vs 3.485) So basically, if you get a parts XJ with an AX-5, you'll need to swap out the rear axles as well. And no, the shop I used was up in Madison, WI (I'm not from MO), and was several years ago.

Sites that host their own pictures most likely have their own source of income, either from advertisements, paid memberships, or both. I've never been on Moparts, but I have a feeling they have both.

4 speed being a 4 speed manual? That's an AX-4, and physically the same size as an AX-5. They're identical except for the AX-5 having the 5th gear. The difference is between 2wd and 4wd versions. Yes, you'll need a new rear driveshaft, but it's most likely going to be easier to have your 2wd one cut down. Should run you around $75-$150 at a machine shop. I paid $102 and it came with two new spicer U-joints installed. The shorter driveshaft comes from the 4wd AX-5 and 231 being longer than the 2wd transmission.

My first MJ did the same thing when the fuel pump was dying. Have/can you check the fuel pressure?

Click the CAD link in my signature, and it should help describe how the stupid thing words, and how to permanently bypass it. There's no reason it can't stay locked forever. My main concern is, what makes you think it's stuck in 4wd? The CAD systems disengage 4wd in two locations. So unless you know for sure that your T-case is sticking, you're better off locking the thing. If you're going off the light... well, that's less than dependable. With the shifter in 2wd, can you get under the truck and rotate the front driveshaft by hand?

The steering shock stabilizer cannot be the cause, but replacing it can mask it. On an axle that has no problems, you could remove the stabilizer and drive around just fine.

A bunch of nonsensical posts disappeared. And that's an internet meme thing. It made sense when I posted it, now it doesn't... :hmm:

That issue seems to be exclusive to you though, Jim. I still haven't figured that one out. :hmm: The multiple posting issues has happened to at least 4 people that I've seen.

Well, damnit Don, now mine just doesn't make sense.