Drahcir495

The last time we saw snow here was in 1976 or 1977 a half an inch stuck and was gone by noon.It was so bad they had to close the interstate. :nuts: I pretty sure we had some flurries in the 80's, but nothing that stuck on the ground. They are predicting a chance for flurries for my area tonight :popcorn: Nothing!

There have been a couple of posts in the last few weeks about upgrading to the H4 E-code headlights. A few have even said if you’re sticking with the factory wattage bulbs, no upgrade is needed to the wiring harness. My truck’s wiring is 20 years old and what fun would there be in keeping the stock wattage bulbs? After finding this site on Upgrading the Headlight Wiring Harness -> http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm . Just for the record, I followed FitchVA’s instructions on this one. In a week or so, I managed to gather all the parts needed to make the harness. Now I was ready to start assembling the harness! I cleared up a spot in the garage, gathered all the parts, and printed out FitchVA’s article for reference -> The project ended up spreading across a good portion of my garage floor -> I soldered and shrunk wrapped all connection and never had a problem getting parts to connect like I read on other posts. I left the Driver’s side wires a little long at 8’ to ensure that I would not be short {they ended up being 6.5’ long} -> I realized I needed a few more feet of Black split flex tubing before I could thread the wiring harness into place, so I headed off to Lowes and found a good deal on the tubing. Adding the split flex tubing to the harness to get it ready to go in -> I mounted the relays to the inner Passenger’s side fender near the battery. I checked for clearance first and then I used some stainless steel screws to secure them -> Ran the harness through to the Passenger’s side light bucket and attached the H4 male connector into the Passenger’s side factory headlight. The final connection would end up behind the light bucket, but that would not make for a good picture -> I actually ended up taking the front grill off, so I could get the harness threaded through easier. I also taped up the original Driver Side socket since it will not be used -> These are the length that worked for my location and needs. I would view these numbers as a reference point to start from. Your lengths may differ, so be sure to measure out placement before attempting your own. You may want to shorten or lengthen your version to your specifications. A few notes – I purchased way too much Red 10 AWG wire and not enough Black. I needed to buy an extra roll of Black 10AWG after I burnt through the first 8FT to make the grounds for the headlight connection. I guess I could have eliminated that expense by using the 14 AWG wire for the grounds. And Napa is more expensive, lol. Black 14AWG 2 @ 15” Relay Grounds Black 14AWG 1 @ 30” Headlight Relay Red 14AWG 1 @ 30” Headlight Relay Red 10AWG 2 @ 7” Fuses Black 10AWG 1 @ 30” PS Headlight Red 10AWG 1 @ 30” PS Headlight Black 10AWG 1 @ 80” DS Headlight Red 10AWG 1 @ 80” DS Headlight Black 10AWG 2 @ 15” Headlight Grounds I tested the head lights to insure that the lights worked, and that the High & low beams were correct. Wow, what an improvement with the wiring harness alone! I just now need to decide on the brand and wattage of the new bulbs I will use. I am leaning towards the Autopal E-codes right now. I need to do some research before I make my final decision, but the lights are already greatly improved. I also came across this article on turning the side marker light into a turn signal repeater light by Andreas Ritterbush -> http://www.madxj.com/ . It was very easy to do, but again I suggest printing out at least the schematic as a guide. I had to replace the Driver’s side light plug because it was bad. The Passenger’s side had been replaced by the PO, but it was not soldered. I was able to securely solder the joints and use the new heat shrink tubing on both sides. After placing new bulbs in everything, the modification work exactly as stated in Andreas’ write-up. It is a worthy and simple mod in my opinion, and I am very pleased with the results. The replcement socket/bulb spliced in and soldered -> Before I get into the cost and materials needed for the project, I need to mention an extra expense not mentioned in FitchVA’s Write-up. At the time Fitch wrote the article I am sure this was not an issue. Delcity now has a minimum order requirement http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/ ... 4&page=1??? I could not meet the min order amount with just the relays and bases, so I conceded to order more. I ordered their Over Armor™ Shrink Tube Kit which, in the end, I was glad I picked it up. That is some nice tubing. AutoZone 8FT 10AWG Black (1) $ 4.49 RadioShack 35FT 10AWG Red (1) $ 17.59 Napa 8FT 10AWG Black (1) $ 6.99 Total 10AWG Actually Used 22 x .57 FT (22’) $12.54 AutoZone 20FT 14AWG Black (1) $ 5.19 AutoZone 20FT 14AWG Red (1) $ 5.19 Total 14AWG Actually Used 7.5 x .57 FT (7.5’) $ 1.95 RadioShack 30A Inline Fuse (2) $ 5.38 Sales Tax 7% $ 3.14 Dell City Shrink Tube Kit (1) $ 16.47 Dell City Relay (2) $ 11.00 Dell City Plug-in Base for Relay (2) $ 3.96 Dell City Shipping (1) $ 9.50 Comagination H4 Female Housing (2) $ 5.25 Comagination H4 Male Housing (1) $ 3.45 Comagination Shipping (1) $ 5.70 Lowes 7’ (1/2) Split Flex Tubing (1) $ 4.00 Already Had 30A Fuses (2) $ 0.00 Already Had Various Split Flex Tubing (-) $ 0.00 Already Had Ring Terminals/10AWG (3) $ 0.00 Already Had Ring Terminals/14AWG (2) $ 0.00 Already Had Solder (-) $ 0.00 Already Had Zip Ties (-) $ 0.00 Already Had Electrical Tape (-) $ 0.00 Already Had Wire Striper/Tools (-) $ 0.00 Already Had Soldering Station (-) $ 0.00 My total cost was $107.30 (if my math is correct), but the actual cost would be closer to $70.00 if sourced properly. The custom harness total makes some of these option look pretty good. CONS – Aftermarket wiring harness options -> http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku $26 http://www.autodynamic.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=HH-H4 $34 I would trust the Painless harness http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku over the other 2, but at $129.95 I think I will stick to my custom harness. PROS – I made it myself :D ! I read that the longer the length of the wire, the greater the increase in the voltage drop (so I read). Universal harness are just that UNIVERSAL. Mine is a perfect fit, no extra plugs or added length. I cannot be certain of the guage of the wire used in these aftermarket harnesses, but I am sure some of these kits use smaller gauge wire. Are they crimped together, or soldered? What is the quality of the parts? I soldered everything and know the quality of the work and materials. ~ I worked for an American manufacturer for a few years, so I became an expert at soldering. This was just a fun project with incredible results. :clapping:

It was +32 when I got up this morning - I thought I would die :rotf: . Jeans, two pairs of socks, T-shirt, Rugby shirt, hoodie, gloves, ball cap {thanks Brent}, and a windbreaker just to be able to work outside today. OK, I heard that . . . who called me a wimp?

:eek: Crap man, you are to young for something like that to happen. I am really glad that you’re recovering. Do whatever it takes to stick around to see me get my Comanche painted -I figure it will be done by 2049 :clapping: . I am sincerely glad you’re OK - Rich

Throttle_Jockey is not a Racist :cheers: "Coon" has a different meaning in my parts :hmm: . I will be the first to admit I took it the wrong way, but I would have pm'd you if I had a problem with it. I just figure you had the right to look the fool. I apologize for the assumption - I am the A$$ in assume. - Rich

This is free and works nicely http://www.madxj.com/ :thumbsup:

It looks really good :cheers: . Did you get the other rear support in there and just did not take a picture of it?

Hmmm, do you mean nipple? :clapping: Can't remember what Beavis or Butthead would of said, but add that in there too.

I would use lacquer thinner - I would just be repainting it again :yes: . I can't imagine that harming the chrome finish. I may have to stand corrected, but we will see :hmm: .

I was going to use the set up off the new jeep wranglers - has the light attached to the license plat holder :idea: .

:cheers: I think it is the nicest looking bumper ever :brows: . I just got it completely mounted last month. I have only been able to wheel it back and forth to work right now, so no off road trials. The guys at Protofab beat the #$%@ out of their stuff, so I imagine it would hold up very well. What I can tell you so far ~ it is built really well - bullet proof well. I had the side of the bumpers extended out for more protection and even the guys at Brown could not manage to bend those extensions at all. The bumper lined up exactly on either side. This is the second MJ bumper that Protofab has made and it went on without a hitch, so I am very impressed. The prototype is on another one of our CC members MJ, but I can never remember his user name (sorry). I only had to drill two extra holes for the support - SWB trucks may already have the holes in the frame. The swing out arm is built following the same bullet proof mentality. Mike says they run their rigs with two swing-out carriers – one for the spare, and the other for coolers, jerry cans, extraction equipment, etc. I drove mine around with a larger 33’’ tire (33x13.50x15) and high lift jack with out a peep, squeak, or rattle – like it wasn’t even there. The lock down mechanism is really nice too. The joints are easily removed if replacement was desired. Please contact Mike and tell him you’re interested in a few MJ products, because I am trying to get him motivated about making sliders for our trucks ;) I hope that helps 8) - Rich

I can't let this one go, especially since you offered...so tell us, how do you know? I only ask because I hate clocksprings, especially the ones in small 2 and 4 cycle engines that use recoil starter assemblies. I've been owned more than once by them..... :oops: please share your experience with them, so I can laugh at someone else's misfortune other than mine, for once ;) Jeff Well, the one that I finally decided to try and repair had been jammed by the PO, and after examining it for awhile I drilled out the 5 rivets surrounding the edge of the case, grasped both halfs and pulled hard. The damn clock spring emerged from all sides of the newly created opening and several loops actually sprang right out at my face. Having no idea that the thing was possessed and wanted to slice my nose off (or worse), I abruptly yelled everyone's favorite adjective and threw it towards the ground, which only caused the evil spring to expand even further. When it finally finished flopping around like a beached fish, I grasped it firmly and finished the eviseration. After carefully examining the parts, I noted the clock spring had been contained in a steel circle that had several pieces of steel across it. I re-seated the bent end of the spring, and then proceeded to cut the $h!t out of my fingers trying to feed it back into the "cage". Eventually, I managed to restrain it in the correct position, which could be compared to herding cats. Compared to that feat, the rest of the re-assembly was anticlimatical. Now that I have done it, I will gladly re-build anyone's underhood light that wants me to do so, but understand when I tell you I will wrap the damn thing in a blanket first when I take it apart.... :rotf: :clapping: Good story :thumbsup: .

Super cool :chillin: ! When is the anticipated date of completion, so we can plan the Garage warming party . I hope during the warmer months - some of us southerners’ are not prepared for the cold :yes:

Welcome to the club :thumbsup: . Protofab (http://www.protofab4x4.com) is now making a rear bumper with an optional swing out tire carrier for the LWB and SWB MJ's-> Mike has not updated his website with picture and pricing yet, but he is working on it. I was told the pricing would be in line with his XJ bumpers. They come unfinished too. Check out my build-up if you need to see more pictures of the bumper. :cheers: - Rich

I do not know if this will catch on, but I need it just to refer back to my own progress :oops: . I thought it would be nice to add an index to my build thread now that it is in the double digits. Like this: Page 1 Intro Added XJ Tilt Column & Grant Steering Wheel Replaced Headliner Junk Yard Tip; Hood Support Clip & XJ Under hood Light Refurbishing XJ 2 Door Bucket Seats Truck Bed Box Husky Liners Page 2 Walker Evans Wheels & MTZ Tires Rusted Out Floor Board Repair . . . and so on. It was a lot of work :ack: .

PM me and I will tell ya :yes: . Sorry, I don't have a real answer for you.

Correct. The mercury switch is internal in the light housing on mine. I also put in an inline manual switch just in case the mercury goes south. :cheers: :agree: I copied hornbrod's idea and put one on mine also. Most of the time I am working under the hood it's in my garage, so plenty of light and no need to drain the battery.

:cheers: Now try something else ;)

:rotfl2: :rotfl2: Yelp... found a match... Dang, he could be your dad. Thats a match :banana:

All the reasons I went for the RE 5.5'' lift. I was going to get the TNT Y-Link (Trek) long arm kit, but time/money factors won over. Never driven an XJ/MJ with a long arm, but with the RE kit it rides better than before the lift. HTH

:yes: :rotf: :rotfl2: That is awesome - I am going to try and work that into a conversation today :clapping:

That is amazing - I can't go two hours. Welcome back :cheers:

Ding-ding-ding.... That'd be me.... My glass is fine, but its missing the latch.. Wait.... Should I be writing this in the classified section??? :hmm: :no: :D :nuts: PM me about it :brows:

Sweet justice :D

Thanks to everyone for making this the best site on the World Wide Web :cheers: . We wouldn't be debating this if we didn't care. We are becoming just like family - minus the booze fueled beatings. I may not be a smart man, but I know what love is ;).