Drahcir495

:jump: Great read - Brady Bunch :yes:

The cup holder looks like brand new, looks great :cheers: .

That soft topper is Sa-weet! I really like the look :thumbsup:

Cabz was kind enough to post a tread in the classified section about a LB Comanche in a salvage yard in Ocala :cheers:. Among other things, it had the elusive Comanche long bed topper on it. This is something that I have been looking to upgrade my MJ with for some time now. After procrastinating for a few week and several confirmations on the style of the topper, I borrowed bwatsoncj’s trailer and headed down to Gavin’s auto to pick up the topper. The MJ was a rusted out 1992, but the topper was in great shape! It had about everything I was looking for; two rear locking handles, fiberglass construction, long side windows that opened up so my pups could get air, available locally, of course a long bed topper, and no funky 80’s side windows – it does have the extra side windows but they are not that bad. This thing is awesome and the price was unbeatable - $42!!!! It also had factory tinted windows, so my Dogs are really happy about that. The down sides were; it was in red {now I’ll get all painted at the same time}, it was missing the key for the lock, and the gasket that fits the breezeway was MIA. I was able to picked up a set of keys from the manufacturer and the breezeway gasket from a local topper store-> The only picture I have of the topper on the original truck ~ crappy cell phone picture -> Here she is on the MJ for the first time -> It even had the lock cover attached – back view -> It is a good start. I wanted to customize the look with maybe some lighting, or a roof rack. I started milling through my garage and found some PVC pipe and connectors that I could use to mock up a roof rack before I invested the materials. I also found some old XJ factory roof rack rails in the corner – hmm these may work. Then I just sat staring at the topper and brain stormed about what I was going for. I knew I wanted the rails to follow the lines of the topper. The rails look like they were designed for the topper, but they were too long -> They needed to be cut down and at an angle to match the step in the rear of the topper. I made them long enough to match the lifted center section of the topper. First piece cut -> Two finished pieces -> Close enough to the shape of the step that I should be able to fill it in with some black RTV -> I had to make a trip to the pick-n-pull to grab the parts I did not have – cross supports and rail clamps. While I was at the salvage yard, I took some time and measured the distance the rails were set apart on some of the factory roof racks and the distance from the outer edges. With that measurement I was able to get a starting point for lining them up on the topper. Got the rails centered under the location of the mock rack, which worked out a bit smaller than the original spacing on the XJ’s. I double checked the spacing of the two rails front and back, and then marked the holes. I will be using ¼ 20 SS hardware, so I drilled out the marks using the ¼ inch hole and added lock nuts and washers -> And the rails were in -> I am looking into bending some aluminum pipe inside for support, but that is still down the road. I needed to cut down the cross bar so it would fit into the much narrower track width -> I marked the cross bar where I had taken the measurement with the tape and cut it -> Oops :ack:! I did not factor in the slight curve in the material and it ended up being a little too short : headpop: . I still managed to get it to work out better than expected. The new end assembled -> Drilled out two small holes about 1.5 inches from the ends for the light studs and secured them to the bar. Two lights on bar and the mock-up topper rack -> Same set up from the side -> I thought that it needed two more lights to complete the look, so drilled out two more holes and added the lights. I cut up the gap strip and place it between each light to give it a finished look -> I also kicked the outer most lights out a bit to widen the reach of the light-> Head-on shot of the painted mocked-up roof rack & lights -> Another angle -> Played with the picture to try and eliminate the red to get an idea of the final look -> The roof rack will be next. I still need to get the Aluminum pipe and some time to do it right. TBC

:agree: Very nice - welcome to the club :cheers: - Rich

Looks Good :clapping: . That is something they never mention - the PS wiper arm interference :fs1: . I have had my hood on for almost two years and now just put the wipers on. Freaked me out the first time it hit the wiper arm. Love the front bumper - keep up the progress!

Just curious - why did you wire it to the alternator and not the battery?

Thanx Brah :oops: . I think it would end up being a weak plagiarized version of FitchVa's and Go-Jeeps efforts. They did all the work; I just added a bit of information that I would like to have seen in the write-up.

Thanks . Keep me posted :cheers:

The one I built also has a relay for each head lamp. It just may look like one relay, but there is two there :cheers:

Can some of the Sothern Brothers attend?

As much it pains me to say this - sell it. You're in S'cool to get a degree and make something of yourself. Focus on that and in 3 or 4 years you will have the financial freedom to get what you want (unless it’s a Liberal Arts degree, then you will be taking every third quarter from the toll patrons like me). I don't know your situation, i.e. parents paying for S'crewl or if you earned a scholarship, but you need to prioritize. But if your folks are paying for your education - it's a golden egg - give the man what he wants. Now I am going to hide from the hand tool being thrown my way :yes:

Str8, I just built a wiring harness for my MJ. I have included all the links for the write-ups and to a few aftermarket options on page 12 of my Build-up viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8051&start=165 Here is the link I worked off of -> http://fitchva.com/jeep/?p=57. Mine was closer to $80 to make, but you could do it cheaper with using single colored wire and shopping around. I went over board :brows:

The last time we saw snow here was in 1976 or 1977 a half an inch stuck and was gone by noon.It was so bad they had to close the interstate. :nuts: I pretty sure we had some flurries in the 80's, but nothing that stuck on the ground. They are predicting a chance for flurries for my area tonight :popcorn: Nothing!

There have been a couple of posts in the last few weeks about upgrading to the H4 E-code headlights. A few have even said if you’re sticking with the factory wattage bulbs, no upgrade is needed to the wiring harness. My truck’s wiring is 20 years old and what fun would there be in keeping the stock wattage bulbs? After finding this site on Upgrading the Headlight Wiring Harness -> http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm . Just for the record, I followed FitchVA’s instructions on this one. In a week or so, I managed to gather all the parts needed to make the harness. Now I was ready to start assembling the harness! I cleared up a spot in the garage, gathered all the parts, and printed out FitchVA’s article for reference -> The project ended up spreading across a good portion of my garage floor -> I soldered and shrunk wrapped all connection and never had a problem getting parts to connect like I read on other posts. I left the Driver’s side wires a little long at 8’ to ensure that I would not be short {they ended up being 6.5’ long} -> I realized I needed a few more feet of Black split flex tubing before I could thread the wiring harness into place, so I headed off to Lowes and found a good deal on the tubing. Adding the split flex tubing to the harness to get it ready to go in -> I mounted the relays to the inner Passenger’s side fender near the battery. I checked for clearance first and then I used some stainless steel screws to secure them -> Ran the harness through to the Passenger’s side light bucket and attached the H4 male connector into the Passenger’s side factory headlight. The final connection would end up behind the light bucket, but that would not make for a good picture -> I actually ended up taking the front grill off, so I could get the harness threaded through easier. I also taped up the original Driver Side socket since it will not be used -> These are the length that worked for my location and needs. I would view these numbers as a reference point to start from. Your lengths may differ, so be sure to measure out placement before attempting your own. You may want to shorten or lengthen your version to your specifications. A few notes – I purchased way too much Red 10 AWG wire and not enough Black. I needed to buy an extra roll of Black 10AWG after I burnt through the first 8FT to make the grounds for the headlight connection. I guess I could have eliminated that expense by using the 14 AWG wire for the grounds. And Napa is more expensive, lol. Black 14AWG 2 @ 15” Relay Grounds Black 14AWG 1 @ 30” Headlight Relay Red 14AWG 1 @ 30” Headlight Relay Red 10AWG 2 @ 7” Fuses Black 10AWG 1 @ 30” PS Headlight Red 10AWG 1 @ 30” PS Headlight Black 10AWG 1 @ 80” DS Headlight Red 10AWG 1 @ 80” DS Headlight Black 10AWG 2 @ 15” Headlight Grounds I tested the head lights to insure that the lights worked, and that the High & low beams were correct. Wow, what an improvement with the wiring harness alone! I just now need to decide on the brand and wattage of the new bulbs I will use. I am leaning towards the Autopal E-codes right now. I need to do some research before I make my final decision, but the lights are already greatly improved. I also came across this article on turning the side marker light into a turn signal repeater light by Andreas Ritterbush -> http://www.madxj.com/ . It was very easy to do, but again I suggest printing out at least the schematic as a guide. I had to replace the Driver’s side light plug because it was bad. The Passenger’s side had been replaced by the PO, but it was not soldered. I was able to securely solder the joints and use the new heat shrink tubing on both sides. After placing new bulbs in everything, the modification work exactly as stated in Andreas’ write-up. It is a worthy and simple mod in my opinion, and I am very pleased with the results. The replcement socket/bulb spliced in and soldered -> Before I get into the cost and materials needed for the project, I need to mention an extra expense not mentioned in FitchVA’s Write-up. At the time Fitch wrote the article I am sure this was not an issue. Delcity now has a minimum order requirement http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/ ... 4&page=1??? I could not meet the min order amount with just the relays and bases, so I conceded to order more. I ordered their Over Armor™ Shrink Tube Kit which, in the end, I was glad I picked it up. That is some nice tubing. AutoZone 8FT 10AWG Black (1) $ 4.49 RadioShack 35FT 10AWG Red (1) $ 17.59 Napa 8FT 10AWG Black (1) $ 6.99 Total 10AWG Actually Used 22 x .57 FT (22’) $12.54 AutoZone 20FT 14AWG Black (1) $ 5.19 AutoZone 20FT 14AWG Red (1) $ 5.19 Total 14AWG Actually Used 7.5 x .57 FT (7.5’) $ 1.95 RadioShack 30A Inline Fuse (2) $ 5.38 Sales Tax 7% $ 3.14 Dell City Shrink Tube Kit (1) $ 16.47 Dell City Relay (2) $ 11.00 Dell City Plug-in Base for Relay (2) $ 3.96 Dell City Shipping (1) $ 9.50 Comagination H4 Female Housing (2) $ 5.25 Comagination H4 Male Housing (1) $ 3.45 Comagination Shipping (1) $ 5.70 Lowes 7’ (1/2) Split Flex Tubing (1) $ 4.00 Already Had 30A Fuses (2) $ 0.00 Already Had Various Split Flex Tubing (-) $ 0.00 Already Had Ring Terminals/10AWG (3) $ 0.00 Already Had Ring Terminals/14AWG (2) $ 0.00 Already Had Solder (-) $ 0.00 Already Had Zip Ties (-) $ 0.00 Already Had Electrical Tape (-) $ 0.00 Already Had Wire Striper/Tools (-) $ 0.00 Already Had Soldering Station (-) $ 0.00 My total cost was $107.30 (if my math is correct), but the actual cost would be closer to $70.00 if sourced properly. The custom harness total makes some of these option look pretty good. CONS – Aftermarket wiring harness options -> http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku $26 http://www.autodynamic.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=HH-H4 $34 I would trust the Painless harness http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku over the other 2, but at $129.95 I think I will stick to my custom harness. PROS – I made it myself :D ! I read that the longer the length of the wire, the greater the increase in the voltage drop (so I read). Universal harness are just that UNIVERSAL. Mine is a perfect fit, no extra plugs or added length. I cannot be certain of the guage of the wire used in these aftermarket harnesses, but I am sure some of these kits use smaller gauge wire. Are they crimped together, or soldered? What is the quality of the parts? I soldered everything and know the quality of the work and materials. ~ I worked for an American manufacturer for a few years, so I became an expert at soldering. This was just a fun project with incredible results. :clapping:

It was +32 when I got up this morning - I thought I would die :rotf: . Jeans, two pairs of socks, T-shirt, Rugby shirt, hoodie, gloves, ball cap {thanks Brent}, and a windbreaker just to be able to work outside today. OK, I heard that . . . who called me a wimp?

:eek: Crap man, you are to young for something like that to happen. I am really glad that you’re recovering. Do whatever it takes to stick around to see me get my Comanche painted -I figure it will be done by 2049 :clapping: . I am sincerely glad you’re OK - Rich

Throttle_Jockey is not a Racist :cheers: "Coon" has a different meaning in my parts :hmm: . I will be the first to admit I took it the wrong way, but I would have pm'd you if I had a problem with it. I just figure you had the right to look the fool. I apologize for the assumption - I am the A$$ in assume. - Rich

This is free and works nicely http://www.madxj.com/ :thumbsup:

It looks really good :cheers: . Did you get the other rear support in there and just did not take a picture of it?

Hmmm, do you mean nipple? :clapping: Can't remember what Beavis or Butthead would of said, but add that in there too.

I would use lacquer thinner - I would just be repainting it again :yes: . I can't imagine that harming the chrome finish. I may have to stand corrected, but we will see :hmm: .

I was going to use the set up off the new jeep wranglers - has the light attached to the license plat holder :idea: .

:cheers: I think it is the nicest looking bumper ever :brows: . I just got it completely mounted last month. I have only been able to wheel it back and forth to work right now, so no off road trials. The guys at Protofab beat the #$%@ out of their stuff, so I imagine it would hold up very well. What I can tell you so far ~ it is built really well - bullet proof well. I had the side of the bumpers extended out for more protection and even the guys at Brown could not manage to bend those extensions at all. The bumper lined up exactly on either side. This is the second MJ bumper that Protofab has made and it went on without a hitch, so I am very impressed. The prototype is on another one of our CC members MJ, but I can never remember his user name (sorry). I only had to drill two extra holes for the support - SWB trucks may already have the holes in the frame. The swing out arm is built following the same bullet proof mentality. Mike says they run their rigs with two swing-out carriers – one for the spare, and the other for coolers, jerry cans, extraction equipment, etc. I drove mine around with a larger 33’’ tire (33x13.50x15) and high lift jack with out a peep, squeak, or rattle – like it wasn’t even there. The lock down mechanism is really nice too. The joints are easily removed if replacement was desired. Please contact Mike and tell him you’re interested in a few MJ products, because I am trying to get him motivated about making sliders for our trucks ;) I hope that helps 8) - Rich