Alexia

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog,419,partnum,1745707,d,OMIX-ADA_1745707.html

That looks exactly like the Monroe unit I installed this month. Felt much smoother than the sixteen year old one I took off.

I fit the front brake hoses and they work great. It took a bit of figuring out to oriented them properly so the hoses pull away naturally from the tires. I have held the rear hose and cables up to check lengths, but not yet put them on. I am dropping the rear axle off for work today and will not be getting it back until next week.

5.5" Rubicon Express springs in the front. Stock 2WD springs in the rear. The Jeep is perfectly level at zero degrees.

The bushing is retained in the new link. The adapter bolts through the top bushing and bols to the sway bar.

Yep, that will come when I start working on the supercharger deal!

The host that CC is on is very restrictive. I host three similarly trafficed web sites over on Dreamhost and pay less than Pete does for hosting CC for a year. I also have theorectical unlimited storage.

Really nice and price seems reasonable.

This was the topic that reminded me I needed to remake one of these. I built it to better than factory material standards. It still needs to be covered though. I used thin plywood so that it is still flexible, but will hold up better to mounting accessories to it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/32740-alexias-1987-to-1997-comanche/page__st__160#entry376154

No tail gaters with this hanging out the back. Riveted the old backer board parts in place.

Good luck finding a stock boost gauge. You could take an aftermarket gauge, pull the needle off, and put a needle on from another stock gauge. Then print the correct looking boost range as a label.

Currently my back up plan if my local paint shops do not decide to stop ignoring me.

The frame/body build date can also be found stamped in the left wheel well on the frame near the brake line. I believe it shows up on the right side too. This build date should be within a few days of the final build date.

Figures! I refrained from buying the white one. Too many vehicles.

$100 to $250. My local dealer quoted me $100 when I specified a 1992 Comanche, but $250 when I specified a 1987. The difference was the 1987 style had the blue tint across the top. Since it is all the same windsheild design you can specify the style you like for the price.

I went through and merged some of the posts together for you. If you click the "More Reply Options" in the bottom right of the topic page it should give you a nice large editor that you can post multiple pictures into.

$800 for a rust free enough MJ is worth it.

Oh come on, don't be such a tease!

I finally cut off the XJ shock brackets and set the axle into position. I measured about four degrees pointing up for the pinion angle and set a tack weld on the spring perch for a more experienced welder to go over. AEM UEGO Wideband AFR setup and Auto Meter gauge pod arrived today. The extra spot will be for a boost gauge once I get to the supercharger stage.

I can not quite find them for the the $5 each I paid, but roughly $8 each is still good. They will not say Jeep on them, but they do work. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=Jeep+Liberty+Strattec+key&_sacat=0&_from=R40

My sentry keys cost me $5 each. Only about double the cost of a normal key. The information is stored in the ECU and possibly the BCM.

The SKIM is the part on the column and usually has a ring that goes around the ignition cylinder. So if the thing runs fine with the SKIM/sensor hooked up with the correct key then just leave it there.

If you accidentally left the Sentry Key Immobilization Module(SKIM), the sensor by the keys, plugged in with power to it with the ECU hooked up the ECU will initialize the sentry feature, but not program it correctly. If that is the case hopefully the dealership can fix it for you.

Oh, ha! That is the green one. There is a light blue one I was looking at as well.

If you are any good at cleaning electrical connectors then this should never be a problem for you.