Alexia

Picture here: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/4770944148.html

The only panel to remove on a 2001 is the kick panel. Two screws at the bottom and the top pops off. Two more screws that hold in the metal kick panel and the entire wiring loom that the remote start requires is right there. The Yellow wire in the loom is the start wire. If you want to tie into lock and unlock for remote start you will need to run over to the passenger side fuse/junction block. There are two relay wires for the locks at the driver's door switches that go by the steering column.

1-2 range - The goal was not to test horsepower, but for tuning. I am going to build an AW4 with a shift rail, modified valve body, and better clutches. This one has no life left in it.

Everything went wrong, but it is more or less tuned now.

Sorry for the late reply. I have not tried yet, but I noted that I would need to notch the MJ's extra reinforcement bracket to make the XJ brackets fit.

The only panel to remove on a 2001 is the kick panel. Two screws at the bottom and the top pops off. Two more screws that hold in the metal kick panel and the entire wiring loom that the remote start requires is right there.

Looks like all the long time deals going on are no more. Time to close it up.

I have a NP242 in my Comanche. Four wheel/All wheel drive launches are fun until a tire on each axle starts slipping.

Toes are useful for picking up tools one has dropped. :D Cleaning out the bed after removing the liner was the worst vehicle clean up I have ever done.

XJ/MJ remote starter units are typically all contained underneath the dash since they can get the tachometer reading from the wire going to the gauges. That system is old enough that it will probably have to be replaced if you can not find a remote.

Looks like a remote start system from Command Start/AutoMobility Distribution.

I used these at the fuel rail and other hard line fittings: Russell by Edelbrock 640863 -6 AN Male to 5/16" SAE Quick-Disconnect Female Push-On EFI Fitting In the case of a damaged factory hard line that previously had a push on fitting I put on a hard line adapter: Earl's 165056 Aluminum 3-Piece Tubing Adapter I use a Dodge Dakota fuel pump that has a 3/8" outlet so I had to use one of these there: Russell by Edelbrock 640853 -6 AN Male to 3/8" SAE Quick-Disconnect Female Push-On EFI Fitting Yes, -6 AN hose. Returnless system is stock for I believe for 1996+ Jeeps. There is a regulator on top of the fuel pump assembly. I never had a problem with them.

When I did the 1997+ conversion. It only clears if it is pointing back towards the cowl.

AEM UEGO Gauge in Center Console Finished Intermediary Pipe Such a Freaking Mess Finished Intake Tube Intake Tube Support Supercharger Finished Space for THINGS(Like a Methanol/Water Tank!)

DEI brand heat wrap around the fuel injectors and fuel rail. Boom, done. I also used the cheap paper cover fix from the dealership and it also solved the problem.

I used that site a bunch way back when I was still trading hardware.

I do not quite remember if it was, but the engine had been warming up a while by that point. I just came up from working on the air intake and diagnosing some wiring issues.

Spidertrax WHS-013 - 1.25" thick. 3" probably would work, but fender trimming would also probably be advised for the front.

If you are coming through the Huntsville, AL area I might be able to meet up.

Nope. I need to do more offline tuning and fix a couple things. The internal MAP sensor on the F/IC is reading irregularly which I believe is due to the vacuum tube provided with the kit not sealing properly. I put a clamp around it to tighten it up, but it still pulls off easily. I also want to push it outside to stop smoking up the house. >_> <_<

I have barely an idea what I am doing with tuning in AEM, but I setup all the break points to at least match the engine!

$2.84 closest to me, but with stacking grocery discounts I paid $2.41. I brought every empty gas can I had to fill up. $9.89 saved across 23 gallons or $19.32 saved when comparing against the typical price of $3.25 that had been steady for the past year here.

We are good on the renewal fee for software updates and support from IPS.

Back when I was doing my research on headers AFE were the only company that listed the thickness of the flange and steel gauge used for the tubes. I stuck high up on the list for attention to detail at least.

The majority of the exhaust is finished. Exhaust work is entirely new to me and since it requires welding I made a bunch of snot on some of the connections. I need to finish the intermediate pipe and the tail pipe. The bends over the axle are done, but I ran out of pipe. I used Euro-Joint style connectors at the header, before the catalytic converter, and after the muffler. There is enough play in the joints to fine tune the position to keep it from rattling in the small space between the crossmember and floor pan. 6" Round Magnaflow Muffler and Magaflow universal 3" catalytic converter Back Side of the Intermediate Pipe Unfinished Intermediate Pipe and a Bit of Header - The header does come down a bit further than stock, but is necessary to keep the larger diameter from hitting the transmission and cooler lines.