SuperWade2 Posted January 24, 2008 Author Share Posted January 24, 2008 This also is going to be a problem. Its a tight fit and almost always hard to remove. I sacrificed a bolt for this long ago. I call it s "banging bolt". Just know if you do this the bolt will be USELESS for anything else. Turn the wheel to gain access. Insert bolt most of the way so as much as possible of the threads have made contact. Give the head of the bolt a good solid whack with a three pound sledge. Remove the bolt, replace it in another hole and repeat. Don't get carried away, you NEED TO Remove this as even as possible. Once you finally get it out, clean all mating surfaces REALLY GOOD. Wire wheel works well for this. When re-assembeling, apply a coat of anti-sleaze, you know the silver stuff. Good luck, CW Just got done trying that with some 4" bolts that I picked up on the way home... Not even a BUDGE... After I get the Kids to bed, I'm going to try one of these two methods I found on JeepForum and JeepsUnlimited... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjbliley Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 I have had great success with removing the hub by using a sacrificial socket. I have a 12 point 13mm socket that I use to put on the bolt after it has been loosened about a 1/4 inch. I loosen all three bolts and put the socket on the bolt while there is that 1/4 inch gap between it and the spindle. Then you hit it with that new 3 pund sledge you have. move the socket from bolt to bolt around the three. don't go in a circle if you can. go back and forth. It will take a while but between the pb, the sledge and the socket I have yet to not get one off. I even have pulled a set in the JY to have spares for the trail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ifixit8 Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 I feel your pain. i too had to deal with similar problems on my build. I needed to get my hub off to replace the hub and u-joint. I also had a rim that would not come off the old rear axle. we tried everything, pb blaster, 10 lbs sludge and hanging on it. that thing just didn't come off. we had to get another rim and tire from the junk yard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted January 24, 2008 Author Share Posted January 24, 2008 I went back out with the 4" bolts and beat on em some more (since my kids aren't going to bed anyhow) and finally got the thing to pop off... What an F'in nightmare... makes we wonder if I am going to be able to do the ball joints, but I have it taken this far apart, so it would be silly to stop now... SW2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjbliley Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Your new best friend should now be a wire brush(preferably a wire wheel on the drill) and some anti-seize with locktite in just the right spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted January 24, 2008 Author Share Posted January 24, 2008 Your new best friend should now be a wire brush(preferably a wire wheel on the drill) and some anti-seize with locktite in just the right spot. Yes... Along with the Ball joints, I'm am replacing the Hub's and Rotors/Pads and Axle Shafts as soon as I get the Inner Seals and Block-Off plate... But for sure the Anti-Seize.... SW2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Yes... Along with the Ball joints, I'm am replacing the Hub's and Rotors/Pads and Axle Shafts as soon as I get the Inner Seals and Block-Off plate... But for sure the Anti-Seize.... SW2 block off plate? for the disco? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted January 24, 2008 Author Share Posted January 24, 2008 Yes... Along with the Ball joints, I'm am replacing the Hub's and Rotors/Pads and Axle Shafts as soon as I get the Inner Seals and Block-Off plate... But for sure the Anti-Seize.... SW2 block off plate? for the disco? Yeah, I am going ahead and doing the inner seal thing for my One Piece Axle from my TJ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 You can pop the hubs out by putting a bolt between the axle tube and ujoint and firing the truck up and turning the tires... If you have power steering that is. I've done it a few times. And for everything else I'd either have used a sledge hammer or lots of heat. I've never wrecked a rotor with my sledge yet, and I use an 8-pounder. You just need a little wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986Comanche Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 It is supposed to pop off by hand. They do get stuck sometimes. Get a small piece of wood and a hammer, and put the wood behind the rotor, and give it a good whack. Turn it, and go again. Keep doing that till it comes off. Do not hit the rotor directly, you'll damage it. That's what the wood's for. It IS 4wd right? 2wd ones have the bearing and rotor assembly all one piece. Not all 2wd Comanches have the the 1 piece bearing and rotor setup. My 1986 2wd Comanche has the rotor and hub setup where the rotor just pulls off of the hub like the 4wds. My factory shop manual says that they built them both ways, So you could have either setup with a 2wd Comanche. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Madxj.com has a great step by step on doing the ball joints in the tech articles section. They use adjustable ball joints but the process is the same. They also show a great technique for removing the axle seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twisty Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Get a ball joint press from Advance Auto (if you have one close to you). The kit is quality, and aided in my ball joint replacment. I even broke it (but it still worked fine) and they didnt charge me for it. Oh yeah, its $150...but you get 100% back when you return the rental tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted January 24, 2008 Author Share Posted January 24, 2008 Does anyone know off hand the socket size for the lower castle nut in the bottom of the knuckle? Somewhere between 32-34mm maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottJ Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Not all 2wd Comanches have the the 1 piece bearing and rotor setup. My 1986 2wd Comanche has the rotor and hub setup where the rotor just pulls off of the hub like the 4wds. My factory shop manual says that they built them both ways, So you could have either setup with a 2wd Comanche. That's right, my neighborhood Schuck's Pro Shop told me mine could be either setup. I've yet to pull it off to find out but that's the next project so I'll know soon enough. I could also have 1 of two different rear drum setups.... width of shoes I think they said. Strange. Like the factory had extra parts lying around to use up or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjbliley Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 I don't know for sure but I think it was SAE. maybe 1 1/8 but don't quote me. I made 3 trips to the tool tore when I did mine and I would have to try my sockets to tell you for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted January 24, 2008 Author Share Posted January 24, 2008 I don't know for sure but I think it was SAE. maybe 1 1/8 but don't quote me. I made 3 trips to the tool tore when I did mine and I would have to try my sockets to tell you for sure. Well, it seems that most of the other stuff is Metric... The Top Castle is either 19 or 22 mm, and I think the drag link bolt was the other... If I remember right, the 1 1/8 SAE I tried last night was too small... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 If I remember right, my 1 1/4" was the right size on the TJ axle I was messing with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 It's bigger than 1 1/4"... Smaller than 36 MM I'm thinking maybe 1 5/16 or 33 or 34mm... none of which I own...yet... Sw2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 have u tried the metric adjustable wrench yet? ya not quite the right tool but hey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 have u tried the metric adjustable wrench yet? ya not quite the right tool but hey :D I was going to post a similar but you beat me. We call this invaluable tool an Alabama Universal Socket set. 'Course you need the 24" galvanized pipe Power Extension to make the set complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 have u tried the metric adjustable wrench yet? ya not quite the right tool but hey If I had one that big, I would use it...Don't have it either... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 have u tried the metric adjustable wrench yet? ya not quite the right tool but hey Cool they make those in METRIC!!!!! I didnt know that! :popcorn: Just take a tape and measure it.. go to the nearest auto/advanced and ask they to loan it to you.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 Not that anyone cares any more, but 34MM FOR THE WIN on the lower ball joint /drag link castle nut... now getting the thing off will be an entirely different story... SW2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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