buxmj Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Hey Rich, I don't think I can make it this Friday, but keep me posted. I don't think Brooksville is too far, I played at the "Hilltop" bar a few times a while ago, an experience in itself! As for my paintjob, it's holding up great. We moved from Sanford to Lake Mary back in August and the mj had earned its place in the garage! My wife's car is a Mini Cooper so I can still get to the tools, the Ford Escape (my dd) is in the driveway. I still need to paint my stock wheels black, and I found some chrome center caps that should look great with the beauty rings. My mj is leaking more oil recently and I haven't had the chance to figure out if it's the rms or the oil filter gasket, thanks for the right up by the way. I have been babying my clutch for a while, trying to make it last, I will have the mechanic replace the rms at that time. I'll keep an eye out for the seatbelts. I think the idea of a Central/South Florida mng would be great. Take care, Buck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 I played at the "Hilltop" bar a few times a while ago. . .and the mj had earned its place in the garage! I may know where that bar is - I take it that you are in a band? I love live music, so pm if you are going to be playing out in my area. A spot in the garage . I fell in love with the mini coopers when I was in England in 97. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 So . . . I am thinking about how great my truck is running as I am heading down the Parkway way at 70mph. A few mile after exiting the Parkway it sounds like a tire is hitting the fender flair and I am also not able to steer well. Pull off the the side of the road expecting a caliper locked up. Check the front passenger side expecting a blown tire or a locked up caliper. Everything looked fine? The rim wasn't hot either? Checked the back and it looked good too. WTF? head back around front and I see this -> Hanging on only by the caliper! I feel lucky tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H3RESQ Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Thats sketchy. Glad you pulled over! Looks like its time for a dana 44! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 Thats sketchy. Glad you pulled over! Looks like its time for a dana 44! Thanks - it happened quick. Real sketchy, but I have seen a few others on here that have experienced it too. It’s a rubi 44 - if I could do it over, I would have invested in the Warn hub conversion kit. I will post pictures later, but the Alloy USA axle shaft snapped at the lock/castle nut :ack: . Andy at Gearworks is working getting me a replacement. I think he said Alloy USA is no more . . . TBC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 I think he said Alloy USA is no more . . . Alloy USA is still around. They were bought out a couple of years ago. The new owners do not honor the old warranties. It may depend upon when you purchased your shafts. Last I heard - which was a couple of years ago - several of the old Alloy USA guys had started Ten Factory and were trying to work with those who had purchased their shafts through the old Alloy USA. Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 I think he said Alloy USA is no more . . . Alloy USA is still around. They were bought out a couple of years ago. The new owners do not honor the old warranties. It may depend upon when you purchased your shafts. Last I heard - which was a couple of years ago - several of the old Alloy USA guys had started Ten Factory and were trying to work with those who had purchased their shafts through the old Alloy USA. Willy Willy - Thanks, that was the name he mentioned ~ Ten Factory. I have to have the shaft, so let see if I get it covered or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 Pictures of the damage -> I guess I should finally put the front drive shaft and 4wd shifter linkage in now that she is going to be down for a while :shake: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Wow, that is a nasty break. Hopefully Ten Factory will take care of you. I don't think I have commented before on your build, but your truck is very nice :cheers: Did you get a 1310-1330 U-joint for the stock front drive shaft or get a custom built shaft to connect to the Rubi44? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Looking at the pictures of the damage and the mode of failure on the end of the shaft, I'm inclined to think the hub bearing may have been the initial root cause of the failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted June 25, 2011 Author Share Posted June 25, 2011 Wow, that is a nasty break. Hopefully Ten Factory will take care of you. I don't think I have commented before on your build, but your truck is very nice :cheers: Did you get a 1310-1330 U-joint for the stock front drive shaft or get a custom built shaft to connect to the Rubi44? I talked to Andy @ Gearworks on Friday - Ten Factory will not cover any Alloy USA warranty's :( , but I asked Any how they got the name. It is because they have a Ten Year Warranty on there products, so I ordered a new Ten Factory shaft out of Atlanta and it should be here in a few days. Napa replace the bearing free of charge :D . Thank you for the compliment :cheers: . I have never commented on your build :oops: , but I have visited it on more than one occation = 5.9L Magnum V8 Comanche :chillin: . I got a Grand Cherokee front drive shaft from the Pick n Pull. It fit almost perfect - I had to have cut down an inch. Good call - I had to use the dual sized U-joint to match up to the 44. Looking at the pictures of the damage and the mode of failure on the end of the shaft, I'm inclined to think the hub bearing may have been the initial root cause of the failure. I tend to agree with you . . . It is like the Chicken or the Egg argument. It just sucks that the shaft broke, but it could have been worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejeepguyonline Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 i have had so much problem with my warn hub conversion that i would not recommend it. i think that the factory bearing is a better setup unless you are switching to the big lug pattern worn kit that uses the 5 x 5.5 lug pattern. it uses larger bearings and hub than the 5 x 4.5 kit does. much stronger and the bearings are farther apart so they carry the load better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 i have had so much problem with my warn hub conversion that i would not recommend it. i think that the factory bearing is a better setup unless you are switching to the big lug pattern worn kit that uses the 5 x 5.5 lug pattern. it uses larger bearings and hub than the 5 x 4.5 kit does. much stronger and the bearings are farther apart so they carry the load better. No kidding - wow. What type of issues did you have? I never bothered to ask (or research) if there has been any issues with the kit :no: . I know that I my CJ's that I do not have any issues with them. It could just be my luck, or the set up I have that is causing these failures? Maybe I am not installing them correctly? Thank you for adding your personal experience with the kit Jeep Guy :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 I was able to use my external jumper cable system before my jeep bearing and shaft issue -> I miss driving the jeep . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kernel Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 i have had so much problem with my warn hub conversion that i would not recommend it. i think that the factory bearing is a better setup unless you are switching to the big lug pattern worn kit that uses the 5 x 5.5 lug pattern. it uses larger bearings and hub than the 5 x 4.5 kit does. much stronger and the bearings are farther apart so they carry the load better. i have to 2nd this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 i have had so much problem with my warn hub conversion that i would not recommend it. i think that the factory bearing is a better setup unless you are switching to the big lug pattern worn kit that uses the 5 x 5.5 lug pattern. it uses larger bearings and hub than the 5 x 4.5 kit does. much stronger and the bearings are farther apart so they carry the load better. i have to 2nd this... Dayem - what is happening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kernel Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 i've had my kit for 10+yrs.... kit came with different mfg wheel studs. didn't think anything about it until i had a couple work free and 1 blew a hole thru the hat on my pass side disc. my kit came with no locking studs on the spindle nuts. i didn't know any different at the time. the hubs would keep coming loose and breaking the locating tabs on the washers. a buddy brought it to my attention yrs later as i was tightening up my hubs after a con run and i found out later warn had an upgrade kit... but by then i was using some old 44 nuts & washers. the o-ring at the base of the hubs get chewed up... not sure how this happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted July 2, 2011 Author Share Posted July 2, 2011 I got the new outer shaft from Ten Factory and brought it down to Gearworks after failing to get the new shaft on the old U-Joint. Andy put in a U-joint with a special grease fitting and got it all together for me -> I was also able to get my new hub assembly covered under warrantee at Napa. New hub assembly -> New Ten Factory spindle shaft -> They look nice together -> This is what the old spindle shaft looked like -> They had some outer axle seals at Gearwork, so I decided that I should pick those up while I had everything apart -> I taped those in using a rubber mallet and a wooden dowel -> The grease fitting is very close to the axle end, so I had to grind down the tip of my grease gun to get it to fit over the fitting. Not a big deal at all. It went in nice and it should keep the majority of crap out of there. Installed -> I slid in the new shaft and grease up the new outer seal -> Put everything back together using the information from 5-90 on the NAJA forum - “Clean and reinstall the three unit bearing retaining screws. Replacements are, I think, M8-1.25 threaded, I am unsure of length. Head style is not critical - hex head or socket head screws may be used as well. Torque these screws to 75 pound-feet. Replace the hardened washer and the axle shaft stub nut - torque to 185 (175) pound-feet. I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high, tho, so I use never-seez on the threads (after I've inspected them) and torque to 93 pound-feet, which has worked just fine for me. (That's an "old mechanic's trick" - if you use never-seez on threads, you have to reduce the installation torque by half. It sometimes comes in handy...) Replace the sheetmetal retainer and use a new cotter pin. If you have to turn the nut slightly to line up the keyways, do not loosen the nut! You may tighten it slightly, however - just enough to align everything. Put your front end back to rights and back on the ground. 5-90” And this bit of wisdom from 5-90 – “Torque is given (unless otherwise specified) for "clean, dry" threads. Adding anything that can reduce friction will actually reduce installation torque by a certain factor... Clean, Dry - 100% of given value Teflon "pipe dope" - 80% of given value Engine Oil - 75% of given value Chassis Grease - 75% of given value Light Machine Oil, Tapping Lubricant - 70% of given value Never-Seez - 50% of given value Note that threadlockers and RTV do not effect friction between the internal and external threads - therefore, you can use the full torque value for those compounds. If you were to use the full torque value when using never-seez, you run the risk of pulling out the threads. Increase the installation torque, and you're going to pull out the threads! You don't want to do that, do you? 5-90” I then headed over to the passenger side and did the same thing -> I noticed that the seals on the rear axle are leaking like mad, so I am getting everything together to do the rear disc brake conversion - TBC I also met Chip from Ox Offroad Products (Ox Locker's) today - he lives in my area :thumbsup: seem like a nice guy too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 Locking hubs will probably make it onto my front 44 one day. I've been researching it and also came across Ten Factory, I'll probably go with them. From what I've read some guys do have problems with the Warn 5x4.5" kit and recommend the larger one also. Love the truck dude, I seriously need to follow your lead on the outer seals!!!! :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted December 18, 2011 Author Share Posted December 18, 2011 Love the truck dude, I seriously need to follow your lead on the outer seals!!!! :wrench: Sorry CC - I never saw this post. Thank you :cheers: . One of the seals took a dump. It was spinning around making a racket. I am waiting for the warrantied replacement to come in. I put a Comanche Club sticker on the jeep today - yeah, about time. I lost the original and had to order a few new ones from Pete. Looks good -> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 those outter seals are junk in my opnion. i put a set on my zj and the mj, both with a good amount a rtv to seal it in and both sets always spin out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 those outter seals are junk in my opnion. i put a set on my zj and the mj, both with a good amount a rtv to seal it in and both sets always spin out. I have had no issues with the one, so I am not sure how I feel about them right now. I am leaning towards your opinion of them . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 those outter seals are junk in my opnion. i put a set on my zj and the mj, both with a good amount a rtv to seal it in and both sets always spin out. I have had no issues with the one, so I am not sure how I feel about them right now. I am leaning towards your opinion of them . . . i have had zero issues with the seals and ive been running them for a long time. i steel wooled the inside of the tubes and used acetone on it. the instructions (iirc) are pretty good with the USA alloy ones. its important to let them cure 24 hours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share Posted December 20, 2011 i have had zero issues with the seals and ive been running them for a long time. i steel wooled the inside of the tubes and used acetone on it. the instructions (iirc) are pretty good with the USA alloy ones. its important to let them cure 24 hours Mine were made in India and I did not get any instructions :roll: . Thanks for the information :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drahcir495 Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Had RenegadeDave down today to work on the MJ's -> /uploads/archive/d1d1f007ff2e0e0e850829beea2fff7b/0f85fd0496f7ce45a77234bcf9a5b44b.jpg. I have a nasty oil leak and I assumed it was the rear main seal. I figured I would start with the valve cover gasket in hopes that that may be the reason for the leak - and an easy fix! -> I pulled off the valve cover, cleaned up the gasket, and reinstalled it. /uploads/archive/d1d1f007ff2e0e0e850829beea2fff7b/c1238a1fb6cf53c2f37bc639c94adc59.jpg It seams to have fixed the problem! ***Update 1/18 - worked for a day :fs1: . Have a new VC gasket ready to go in - it should be the end of the leak. We were going to install the RE Drop Brackets on the Damien project, but we all ended up spending more time riding the mini bike than actually working on the MJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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