thejeepguyonline

did you get it done in time for the KOH? if so how did you do? i was there and didn't see the mj.

check these out they still make these http://www.flippac.com/index.html here is the link to the wildernest site http://wildernest.org/

that explains why it fits so well. been looking for one for mine. i just havent seen any comanches with them in the jy's out here.

whats the roll bar off of?

i got my bfg km2's august 23 from americas tire here in so california. the internet sites national tire, and tire rack said that they were not available and the sales rep at americas tire showed me the screen showing that they were on back order. my set came from a store in washington and i had to wait 2 days for them. so either since then bfg has started making more or you are a very lucky shop to have 40 35'' km2's. my friend has them on 10'' rims and they look wider than the 9'' mine are.

i ran 37's with the d35 on my tj for a lot of years never broke it on the trail including the Rubicon. i always broke it on the pavement. usually when i jumped in the jeep after work and the radio was playing something like acdc back in black. the d35 doesn't like a 4000 rpm clutch dump with the 37's in the parking lot of work. just go for the 35's they looks so much better under the mj. the 35'' km2's are a lot narrower than the tires you are running. even though they say 12.5'' wide mounted on a 8'' rim the tread only measures 9'' wide. i am running a set right now, love the tires but not happy about the size. the 35 x 12.5-15 size km2's measure 34 x 9 on a 15 x 8 rim. and as of 3 weeks ago when i bought mine mtr's and km2's were on national back order.

well i was right added back a hot wire to the red wire on the door lock circut and all is good. every thing works now. in fact i have never had any of my cherokees door locks work this well.

all be it that the windows were plug and play, looks like i am missing the power supply to the door locks. been going thru the wireing diagrams and can't figure how to get power to the red wire to power them. i had cut out the c124 plug thinking that it was for the rear now i think the red wire in the plug was some how connected to power. out of all the jeeps i have worked on the wiring for these seems to be the most confusing. the way they run power from one side to the other makes no sence to me. i bet that the jeep could have been much lighter if they just used some comen sence doing the wiring. the duplication and extra wires running back and forth are a waste and added weight of copper. looks like i will need to open up the harness and add a power connection to the red wire splice were i cut the c124 connecter out. not that big of a deal just a pain as i had found no mention of the red wire powering the door locks. i made the assumption that it was powered thru the window power.

i been wanting to install power windows for a wile. i had a big collection of different parts from different cherokees. door pannels from an country eddition, inside door handles and switches from a 2 door, wire harness, window motors, and door locks from the remains of my wifes rolled 4 door 88 cherokee limited. i started off by reading all i could find on the conversion. i then took the wire harness and cut out the back door and side view mirror wires. i then ordered a rivet tool from harbor freight tool that could handle the 1/4" pop rivets and ordered 1/4" pop rivets from msc. i dissembled the doors and drilled out all the factory rivets from the rolled doors and my truck doors. i then pulled all the parts out and swaped the power windows and door locks in to the truck doors. riveted in everything and inserted the wire harness. i had to rewire my speekers as the truck never had factory speekers in the door and some one had put them in. tested all and the door locks don't work. but was getting late and didnt have time to find the problem and get her buttoned up for the day. i had 2 customers jeeps comming tommorrow so the door locks will have to wait. i am not sure if i cut some thing nessary or if there was a problem with the parts from the wreck. either way i will pore thru the wireing diagrams to see what is up. here are some pics.

added a power steering cooler today got it from the junk yard off a ford expedition

are you planing to repair or replace the damaged uniframe section under were the radiator mounts?

i have had my truck for many years but had never realy took it wheeling on hard core trails. today i lead a rag tag group of rigs up one of my favorite trails thru holcomb valley neer big bear lake. its the jacoby canion trail 3n61 here in so cal. it leads up from hwy 18 to the lucky boldwin mine site at 3n16. we then followed 3n16 to 3n08 past the old open strip mine to 3n14 and followed that back down off the moutian. here are some pic's.

i don't know if i missed it or not but what or were did the vents come from?

i have had so much problem with my warn hub conversion that i would not recommend it. i think that the factory bearing is a better setup unless you are switching to the big lug pattern worn kit that uses the 5 x 5.5 lug pattern. it uses larger bearings and hub than the 5 x 4.5 kit does. much stronger and the bearings are farther apart so they carry the load better.

for head light info check this one out http://www.danielsternlighting.com/prod ... ducts.html some cheeper prices http://www.rallylights.com/SearchResult ... goryID=354 best light out put for me is useing head light relays, hella E code h4 lamps with osram bilux h4 85/80 bulbs

i would agree with you on that. also i think the small window is from a toyota. if you look closely at the pic you can see were they joined the extention together.

some one built that the factory never did.

who's mj is the extended cab one?i realy like how that was done was just talking to my boys about doing the same thing.

i am running one of the first tnt long are kits they are great! but i must say the bushwackers that i have are KRAP i would not use them again! they have cracked and come loose. i would use rustys ( http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.m ... _Code=BODY ) if i were to replace them.

check my thred viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26907 i have done it to all of my jeeps and no longer have any problems with the blow by of oil. it works! if you have the ability to change a valve cover gasket then you can do this swap. you use a late model 1996 thru 2001 stamped steel valve cover from an Cherokee or the same or later years of grand's or wrangler's. i just read thru the link you sent with your post and find the problem that the article was speeking of was about the stock system cloging up and not breathing correctly. this is a completly different case than that of the early cover problems. the new style cover uses a windage try design the allows the blow by air to excape and not draw the oil into the venting system.

do the same thing as i did to fix the oil blow by. change to a late model 1996 thru 2001 stamped steel valve cover from an Cherokee or the same years grand's or wrangler's. they fix the problem i have done this to all the Comanche and Cherokee's i own and no longer have any problems with them. if as i you only can find them with broken vents or hard rubber on the vent lines you can get new fittings from: http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/ ... index.html Jeep XJ, Jeep Cherokee, Jeep Comanche and Jeep Wagoneer Parts: Engines Breather Hose Set 4.0 Liter OEM Cherokee & Comanche 1991-1995 $17.95 Front & Rear Valve Cover Vent Valve Set OEM 4.0 Liter Cherokee 1994-2001 $8.95 Valve Cover Grommet Set 4.0 Liter Cherokee 1994-2001 $5.95 or you can just buy the hole thing new from them Aluminum Valve Cover Black 4.0 Liter Cherokee 1996-2001 $89.95

wow i realy like the way the skid turned out! i think you are on the right track with 4.56 insted of 4.88 for the 35's. my 37's measure 36 new and 35.5 now. so your milage sould greatly improve.

my short bed 1987 has a 19 gal tank and with the 37's 4.56 to 1 gears, a 5 speed, big injectors and the old school renox system, i get 16 mpg highway doing 75 mph. i averaged 280 miles between fill ups. i didnt want to use all the fuel and run out. i use to drive it to work and back (140 miles) every day and checked my milage every fill up (every other day) after i hit 270000 miles (it was lifted on the 37's for 150000 miles) i got a neon to drive and save some gas.

here in southern California they pull you over for no flares and no flaps. calif law says tire can not stick out more than 2 inches past the fender coverage (and that's to the bulge not the tread) and from the ground up to lowest rear coverage can not exceed 12 inches. there prity much d--ks down here too.

you could just use a piece of stock and a hammer to beat clearance into the baffle plate.