pizzaman09 Posted Thursday at 10:00 PM Share Posted Thursday at 10:00 PM Last year I changed my rear main seal and oil pan gasket to try to fix the oil leaks I have. I was under the truck today and see that the Fel Pro 1 piece gasket I used on the oil pan appears to be extruding out at the rear. Does anybody have an opinion on whether the single piece or multi piece gasket is easier to deal with in install as I'm going to have to do this again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted Thursday at 10:10 PM Share Posted Thursday at 10:10 PM Oooo I did this recently. So I did the single piece on my MJ years ago. I didn’t have an issue but it’s leaking at the timing cover now which I kind of expected. I just did the multi piece on my XJ a few weeks ago and found it a little more easy to deal with so long you put a little bit of gasket maker on to keep the pieces in place. If I was to do such again, I would do the single piece especially on the 6 cyl with some gasket maker to help keep it in place when installing. Though the only thing I don’t like about the single piece is the front timing cover portion but it does cup the lower cover really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted Thursday at 10:27 PM Share Posted Thursday at 10:27 PM I did the multi piece on both my MJ and Eagle. No complains, just a damn of RTV in each corner to hold it together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted Friday at 12:30 AM Author Share Posted Friday at 12:30 AM 2 hours ago, eaglescout526 said: Oooo I did this recently. So I did the single piece on my MJ years ago. I didn’t have an issue but it’s leaking at the timing cover now which I kind of expected. I just did the multi piece on my XJ a few weeks ago and found it a little more easy to deal with so long you put a little bit of gasket maker on to keep the pieces in place. If I was to do such again, I would do the single piece especially on the 6 cyl with some gasket maker to help keep it in place when installing. Though the only thing I don’t like about the single piece is the front timing cover portion but it does cup the lower cover really well. I don't really want to have to get the pan past the axle so I'm leaning towards the single piece. I had a heck of a time trying to get the axle low enough to get the pan out last time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Friday at 11:56 AM Share Posted Friday at 11:56 AM For what it's worth, I replaced my valve cover gasket a while back with FelPro and a bit of blue shows in lots of places. Back when I did it I seem to remember asking here if that was a concern and IIRC someone told me it was not. That was in Nov 2024 and it seems to be holding. I don't know how much apples to apples this comparison is, but, again, for what it's worth... There's a few pics in that thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted Friday at 12:26 PM Share Posted Friday at 12:26 PM I have had this happen to me as well where the part under the rear main seal slips out of the oil pan. When I reinstalled it I used some silicone to glue it to the pan so it wouldn't happen again. It has been holding up well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted Friday at 12:42 PM Share Posted Friday at 12:42 PM In that area and the front area I use a gasket sealer to help keep the FelPro in place while installing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Friday at 03:36 PM Share Posted Friday at 03:36 PM I have been putting off trying this because of the anticipated difficulty getting the pan out/in (and also concern that I won't get the new RMS in place correctly as well). @pizzaman09, It sounds like you are planning to redo this without actually removing the pan, so just lowering it. Sounds like it's gonna be difficult to clean the pan and the mating surface. Also, basically, how do you "lower the axle"? If you were also replacing the RMS would you still try to do this without fully removing the pan? To the group, how do each of you do the gasket and RMS with regards to the pan, pan out or pan just unbolted and lowered? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted Friday at 04:02 PM Author Share Posted Friday at 04:02 PM 32 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: I have been putting off trying this because of the anticipated difficulty getting the pan out/in (and also concern that I won't get the new RMS in place correctly as well). @pizzaman09, It sounds like you are planning to redo this without actually removing the pan, so just lowering it. Sounds like it's gonna be difficult to clean the pan and the mating surface. Also, basically, how do you "lower the axle"? If you were also replacing the RMS would you still try to do this without fully removing the pan? To the group, how do each of you do the gasket and RMS with regards to the pan, pan out or pan just unbolted and lowered? The pan really blocks all access to the RMS unless you get it completely out of the way. I have the good fortune to have a friend with a two post lift. We unbolted the sway bar and pried down in the suspension just enough last time to squeak the pan out. I also removed the starter last time. I've ordered another Fel Pro 1 piece gasket and plan to follow the tips of others to RTV it in place to prevent it from moving too much. I will probably pull the pan all the way out again, then again I put the gasket in last time after the pan was positioned back under the engine above the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Friday at 07:32 PM Share Posted Friday at 07:32 PM 3 hours ago, pizzaman09 said: The pan really blocks all access to the RMS unless you get it completely out of the way. I have the good fortune to have a friend with a two post lift. We unbolted the sway bar and pried down in the suspension just enough last time to squeak the pan out. I also removed the starter last time. I've ordered another Fel Pro 1 piece gasket and plan to follow the tips of others to RTV it in place to prevent it from moving too much. I will probably pull the pan all the way out again, then again I put the gasket in last time after the pan was positioned back under the engine above the axle. Gotcha. Thanks. I don't have that same good fortune, so this is a repair I will probably pass on to the local jeep repair shop. But I'll go ahead and put new o-rings in my oil filter adapter first and see how much leak I have left before moving forward with the RMS and Pan seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted Friday at 07:37 PM Share Posted Friday at 07:37 PM 4 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Gotcha. Thanks. I don't have that same good fortune, so this is a repair I will probably pass on to the local jeep repair shop. But I'll go ahead and put new o-rings in my oil filter adapter first and see how much leak I have left before moving forward with the RMS and Pan seals. Being that your truck is 2wd, you might have an easier time getting the pan out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Friday at 07:47 PM Share Posted Friday at 07:47 PM 6 minutes ago, 89 MJ said: Being that your truck is 2wd, you might have an easier time getting the pan out. Ah I did not know this would have that effect. Well I'll still do the OFA rings first and get a new status. I suppose I can always remove the bolts and try to wiggle the pan out, and if I fail I can put it back together and take it to the shop. Of course this experiment is likely to result in a bigger leak but if the plan is the shop right after a re-bolt, maybe that will not be a show stopper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted Friday at 07:55 PM Share Posted Friday at 07:55 PM 6 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Ah I did not know this would have that effect. Well I'll still do the OFA rings first and get a new status. I suppose I can always remove the bolts and try to wiggle the pan out, and if I fail I can put it back together and take it to the shop. Of course this experiment is likely to result in a bigger leak but if the plan is the shop right after a re-bolt, maybe that will not be a show stopper. I cannot say that for 100% certainty, I'd want someone with another 2wd to confirm. Otherwise you could absolutely try it like you said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokinn Posted 2 hours ago Share Posted 2 hours ago On 3/27/2026 at 1:55 PM, 89 MJ said: I cannot say that for 100% certainty, I'd want someone with another 2wd to confirm. Otherwise you could absolutely try it like you said. I don't remember the exact geometry configuration when I took my oil pan off but it wasn't too terribly difficult. Body supported on jack stands and engine supported with jack under transmission IIRC. Might take a try or two to get it just right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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