Should I replace these suspension parts?

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

It looks like these rubber parts are not too difficult, or expensive, to replace.  They are original and full of cracks.  Should I replace them?  And are the parts below the right parts?  Clearly the new rubber would look better, but what are the benefits beyond looking better?  (Will I even be able to tell the new parts are there unless I am looking at them?)  My truck runs smooth, although it doesn't take bumps as well, that it, "I hear things thump a bit" on a bump.  It looks like replacement is pretty straight forward, it is?  Any special tools or "not obvious" things I would need to know first?  Like, if I take off a nut will thing fly apart that I can't get back together without a LOT more trouble that is looks like!?  Thanks in advance for the advice!

 

NAPA Parts

[GonzoTheGreat]

Super straightforward. You can do it with the truck on the ground. The only thing that can really cause a problem is if you snap that top stud on one of the links, or one of the frame-mount bolts, but your truck doesnt look super crusty. Just make sure you use plenty of PB blaster before you attack.

 

Oh and that frame-side bushing is available in different diameters. I think 23mm is the most common, but you might want to measure yours before you buy the new ones, just to make sure.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

Thanks! I would have not thought I could do this with the truck just setting there, that's good to know that weight on wheels isn't part of the equation.  I'll be sure to try and soak some oil into the threads.  Which are you referring to that I need to measure (A, B, C or D)?  And are you referring to the diameter of the bushing itself or the hole?  Although if I get them out, I can just measure everything! :)

[pizzaman09]

Those parts are still functional but there is a tremendous amount of compression set.  The cracking is due to ozone attack over time.  They are ready to be replaced, you probably won't notice any difference driving but theoretically your sway bar will react better.

[Pete M]

just a heads up, those sway bar bushing bolts in the first photo are incredibly prone to snapping, even on otherwise clean trucks.   be careful.

[derf]

8 minutes ago, pizzaman09 said:

Those parts are still functional but there is a tremendous amount of compression set.  The cracking is due to ozone attack over time.  They are ready to be replaced, you probably won't notice any difference driving but theoretically your sway bar will react better.

There can be a little slop and new bushings will potentially improve the ride quality.  Though the swaybar is a minor contributor.

 

I had an old XJ.  I bought it and replaced all suspension and steering parts (swaybar, control arms, track bar, and tie rod ends).  I even did unit bearings and axle shaft u-joints.  It went from vaguely going in the neighborhood of where you were trying to steer it to being pretty well behaved.  But everything was completely shot.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

1 hour ago, Pete M said:

just a heads up, those sway bar bushing bolts in the first photo are incredibly prone to snapping, even on otherwise clean trucks.   be careful.

Yikes!  OK.  I'll give the penetrating oil lots of time to work in, and I'll not use the extra large breaker bar!

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

1 hour ago, pizzaman09 said:

Those parts are still functional but there is a tremendous amount of compression set.  The cracking is due to ozone attack over time.  They are ready to be replaced, you probably won't notice any difference driving but theoretically your sway bar will react better.

Well, I guess we'll see if I can tell.

[Pete M]

if you buy poly bushings, be sure to add a bit of grease to the surface to prevent squeaks   

[DirtyComanche]

3 hours ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

Yikes!  OK.  I'll give the penetrating oil lots of time to work in, and I'll not use the extra large breaker bar!

Sometimes the threads are stretched from the bar and link pounding against each other.  So they will just break, nothing can be done to stop it.  I would order new links and plan on changing them too, but that's me.

 

Edit, a Mevotech link with bushings is around $11 USD on Rockauto (my pricing is in CAD and I convert back, but it's about that), so $22 would get you both links and you only need to buy the bushings that go around the bar.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

Ah, it sounds like there is potential for any/all of the bolts, or things that are threaded, to be damaged either already or when the job is done.  @DirtyComanche, I think this is what you are recommending, (although this is the NAPA part, I didn't look up RockAuto yet.) Plus the "blue" bushings in my OP.

 

 

[hgeranium]

My links and bushings look just as crusty as yours lol. And I agree with dirtycomanche. If you're going through all the work to take em off you might as well replace the whole link. They're not too expensive and I'd bet it'll be the last time it would ever have to be done for the life of the truck.

[DirtyComanche]

5 hours ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

 @DirtyComanche, I think this is what you are recommending, (although this is the NAPA part, I didn't look up RockAuto yet.) Plus the "blue" bushings in my OP.

 

 

Yes, that's what you want, but $82 seems steep.  Swaybar end link is the more proper term for them, my post was unclear.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

Yeah, RockAuto price is quite a bit better.  Haven't measured to see for sure if 23mm is what I need so I'll do that before ordering, but assuming that is correct here's the parts at RockAuto.

[75sv1]

I have used the Mevotech Blue bushings. I like them. They seem stiff like a polyurethane one. I have used the NAPA links. They are good. The last ones, I replaced the bushings with red polyurethane ones. I had both laying around. I was having issues with the front end lifting. Very weird. I was using ZJ links. I didn't have the top bushings in there. So, some sort of binding. I wasn't the only one to notice it. 

[hgeranium]

3 hours ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

Yeah, RockAuto price is quite a bit better.  Haven't measured to see for sure if 23mm is what I need so I'll do that before ordering, but assuming that is correct here's the parts at RockAuto.

only $173 extra to receive your parts a whole two days earlier!

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

I think I'll go with the longer wait, more time for my oil to soak in.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

On 3/16/2026 at 9:45 AM, GonzoTheGreat said:

Oh and that frame-side bushing is available in different diameters. I think 23mm is the most common, but you might want to measure yours before you buy the new ones, just to make sure.

Looks like I actually need the 24mm.  Good thing you pointed out to measure!  It isn't obvious in the pic but I did clean off the bar at the point I measured.  Luckily RockAuto has that also for essentially the same price, in rubber, DELPHI TD4104W.  BTW my "zero-ed" meter read 0.00 when I clicked the pic but apparently it flickered to 0.01.  I don't think I'll worry too much about 10um.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

I cleaned off the threads where I could reach them, can't get to them in the "A" pic location really with my oil can but I'll get some spray in there but I dripped penetrating old from the can on the rest.  I don't think I'll need that on the driver side since another pending repair is my leaking PS pump and/or hoses, so the lower bolt on that side has be well lubricated for a couple months at least already.

[DirtyComanche]

16 hours ago, hgeranium said:

only $173 extra to receive your parts a whole two days earlier!

Rockauto's shipping options are always good for a laugh.  I've seen $1000+ options to get things across the border to me.  That said, there is scenarios where you just might be that desperate. 

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

Parts are on order.  My Haynes manual doesn't include torque number for any of these points, can anyone tell me the torque I should be using at "A", "B" and "D" from my pic?

[DirtyComanche]

A - 55Ft-Lbs

B - 70Ft-Lbs

D - 27Ft-Lbs

 

That's from the 89 FSM.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

Thanks!  Even knowing what numbers to look for I can't find this info in the FSMs posted.  

 

Interesting, the 84-93 FSM posted looks a lot like what's in my Haynes manual, probably not a mere coincidence!  

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

On 3/16/2026 at 10:50 AM, Pete M said:

just a heads up, those sway bar bushing bolts in the first photo are incredibly prone to snapping, even on otherwise clean trucks.   be careful.

Today's the day.  I have soaked what I can get to.  Doesn't seem to be any way to aim at the threaded side beforehand [for the bolts to the frame].  I'll plan to take these out slowly and working back/forth, and when I get them part of the way out I'll soak them again and put the back in to get the oil up in the threads.  Are these a standard thread I could get replacements for at the hardware store if I wanted to go back in with new ones?

Edited March 31 by AnotherOldJeepGuy
[clarification]

[Pete M]

pretty sure they are metric?