Bumpy ride!!!

[ghetdjc320]

I’d suggest you first find the source of the problem. Once you fire the parts canon, you’re never sure what exactly solved your issue. But I would also second the above, get on rock auto and source some quality parts. Stick with Dana/Spicer, SKF, Timken and Moog. Also look into the ZJ tie rod swap. 

[AZJeff]

The kit that was cited is from “Detroit Axle” and that is FULL of parts made from “Chinesium”.   That means they are bottom of the barrel quality.

 

I would stay away from that garbage and instead, individually source the pieces for the front end from a reputable source such as Rock Auto.

[ratrapp]

i second not using the detroit axle crap.we've installed some of there crap that customers have brought in and its mostly crap.

[NC Tom]

No doubt you all are right about the potential poor quality of the big kits. I would imagine that some parts are okay, some decent, some poor maybe even very poor. However, while I prefer not having to piece together a shopping list and possibly not having the part needed when it's needed, I guess should go for quality over quantity.

 My MJ is 90% street. Any suggestions for brands that cater more to that price point/use than for parts "overbuilt" for off road that may be more expensive or overkill?

[GonzoTheGreat]

On 6/10/2025 at 5:34 PM, ghetdjc320 said:

Stick with Dana/Spicer, SKF, Timken and Moog.

 

[Gojira94]

Something to know about the Moog stuff- a lot of the suspension parts you find in Autozone, Advance, some others that are 'house brand' box have numbers that start with ES, DS and K are re-boxed Moog parts. Some are "country of origin" USA, some are Taiwan (just as good) and an ever growing number are China. That Detroit axle kit is 100% re-boxed Moog part numbers. Point well made that the stamped steel arms may not be as thick as OE, can't be sure without comparing. Weight comparison would be the quick and dirty way to get an idea. The lower ball joints do indicate (for now) country of origin = USA, but no guarantee.

[Pete M]

I would get WJ lower arms.

[NC Tom]

22 hours ago, Pete M said:

I would get WJ lower arms.

Pete, are the WJ arms a direct fit? Also, what year for WJ to pull from?

[NC Tom]

On 6/11/2025 at 12:51 PM, ratrapp said:

i second not using the detroit axle crap.we've installed some of there crap that customers have brought in and its mostly crap.

What are you saying? It's crap?

[NC Tom]

On 6/10/2025 at 6:34 PM, ghetdjc320 said:

I’d suggest you first find the source of the problem. Once you fire the parts canon, you’re never sure what exactly solved your issue. But I would also second the above, get on rock auto and source some quality parts. Stick with Dana/Spicer, SKF, Timken and Moog. Also look into the ZJ tie rod swap. 

I get that. However, I think it's all original down there except for the shocks that a changed several years ago. While it may be foolish to just change everything, everything will be changed. Problem solved is problem solved. I'm sure that makes sense in a parallel universe somewhere. 

[NC Tom]

On 6/10/2025 at 6:34 PM, ghetdjc320 said:

I’d suggest you first find the source of the problem. Once you fire the parts canon, you’re never sure what exactly solved your issue. But I would also second the above, get on rock auto and source some quality parts. Stick with Dana/Spicer, SKF, Timken and Moog. Also look into the ZJ tie rod swap. 

 

Is that "SKF" or "SKP"? Rockauto has "SKP". Also, is the ZJ swap direct fit.

[NC Tom]

On 3/24/2025 at 7:44 PM, AZJeff said:

Contol arm bushings need a close inspection with a flashlight to look for cracks or permanent deformation.  Keep in mind that, unless those arms were replaced or rebushed some time in the past, you are rolling around on 30+ year old rubber suspension joints, and that almost guarantees that the bushings are just flat worn out.

 

Would old bushings indicate replacing the control arms and the bushings?

[AZJeff]

4 hours ago, NC Tom said:

 

Would old bushings indicate replacing the control arms and the bushings?

I am about 99% certain that, if the control arms are original, the bushings are dried out, cracked and no longer acting like intended.

 

Rock Auto has OEM style, TRW branded bushings for about $5 each.  Other brands are somewhat higher or lower.  The rub is that you must have some tools to press the bushings out and in of the control arms.  (A Harbor Freight ball joint press will work here.)

 

On the other hand, complete control arms are about $25 each.  The upside is that it’s more plug and play (upper axle end bushings not withstanding.). The downside is the added cost.  
 

I am lazy, so I prefer swapping the whole arm, and using reputable brands.

[NC Tom]

49 minutes ago, AZJeff said:

 

I see. Didn't know the bushings were kind-of like bearings. I'll just replace the whole arm. Thanks!

[ratrapp]

i know the wj arms are solid arms and do allow for more turning clearance turning but you do have to grind the bushings down to make them fit.you seem to be on the struggle bus at times so i would just go with the stock arms and keep it simple.yes,most of the detroit axle stuff is crap.it either doesnt last long or simply doesnt fit.its one of these things that you get what you pay for.

[llhat]

On 6/14/2025 at 10:20 AM, Gojira94 said:

Something to know about the Moog stuff- a lot of the suspension parts you find in Autozone, Advance, some others that are 'house brand' box have numbers that start with ES, DS and K are re-boxed Moog parts. Some are "country of origin" USA, some are Taiwan (just as good) and an ever growing number are China. That Detroit axle kit is 100% re-boxed Moog part numbers. Point well made that the stamped steel arms may not be as thick as OE, can't be sure without comparing. Weight comparison would be the quick and dirty way to get an idea. The lower ball joints do indicate (for now) country of origin = USA, but no guarantee.

If the detroit axle components are re-boxed Moog,  then how could they be 'crap'?

 

Used a Detroit axle rear disc rotor kit for a Dodge 3500 dual rear wheel where i needed rotors.  I hired the install and the firm indicated there were no issues they could see with quality of the supplied components.

[NC Tom]

1 hour ago, ratrapp said:

i know the wj arms are solid arms and do allow for more turning clearance turning but you do have to grind the bushings down to make them fit.you seem to be on the struggle bus at times so i would just go with the stock arms and keep it simple.yes,most of the detroit axle stuff is crap.it either doesnt last long or simply doesnt fit.its one of these things that you get what you pay for.

Yeah, I'd rather not modify anything at this point. Thanks 

[ratrapp]

the last two customers we had that brought in detroit axle parts were a simple cross drilled rotor and pad combo that sonded like 2 rocks grinding together when stopping.they stopped fine but sounded awfull.another was a lincoln town car that customer wanted all 4 ball joints replaced.they lasted around a year before the lowers were going bad again.i don't know about them being reboxed moogs,but ive installed enough moog parts over the last 25 years that i'm pretty sure they werent moogs.moog also doesnt make as good a product as it did 10 years ago either.

[Pete M]

it only takes a couple minutes to mod the WJ arms.  just need to trim the steel bushing flush with the rubber bushing.     you can see in the pics where it protrudes like a 1/4". 

 

 

[Tex06]

On 6/10/2025 at 5:34 PM, ghetdjc320 said:

..... But I would also second the above, get on rock auto and source some quality parts. Stick with Dana/Spicer, SKF, Timken and Moog. Also look into the ZJ tie rod swap. 

 

X3 on this. Look under your jeep, find everything with a rubber end (bushing) and replace it.

 

Then do the same for everything with a grease zerk that's left (ball joint/rod-end).

 

That's basically your kit.

[NC Tom]

9 hours ago, Pete M said:

it only takes a couple minutes to mod the WJ arms.  just need to trim the steel bushing flush with the rubber bushing.     you can see in the pics where it protrudes like a 1/4". 

Ok, Pete. I can see you're all-in on this swap. Question: I run stock size tires. Is there any benefit for me from this mod?

[NC Tom]

23 hours ago, ratrapp said:

you seem to be on the struggle bus at times

Brother, it's parked right next to my truck!

[Pete M]

superior bushing design and superior arm design for a better ride.  

 

also, get some bigger tires.  

[NC Tom]

On 6/16/2025 at 8:54 PM, Pete M said:

superior bushing design and superior arm design for a better ride.  

 

also, get some bigger tires.  

Ok. That sounds like it's worth looking into. What's the model year I need to reference for the WJ?

 

I've had bigger tires in the past and found them to be more of a P.I.T.A. then a benefit to me.

[ghetdjc320]

2 hours ago, NC Tom said:

Ok. That sounds like it's worth looking into. What's the model year I need to reference for the WJ?

 

I've had bigger tires in the past and found them to be more of a P.I.T.A. then a benefit to me.

99-2004 were the main years for the WJ