JeepcoMJ Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 I'm kinda looking at a 94 wrangler that needs the hood, fenders, and grille, and doesn't have a motor and most likely won't come with the ax15 trans, but the price may be right. anyways, motor/trans is not a problem, I'm wondering if anyone has hoods, fenders, grilles, or knows where to get them cheap. Id like to keep the body budget less than $500 with paint included if this works out. what's your experiences with YJ's, pros and cons (remember this isn't a 4.2, it would be a HO 4.0 I believe), part pricing etc. thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whowey Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 It would be a 4.0l HO. My experiences.... The ride sucks, 4 wheel leaf springs and a short wheel base completely blow chunks for everyday driving. Drivetrain is proven, almost every part is available in the aftermarket. Personally, the wife wanted one. I don't. The horse drawn buggy ride isn't me. Not to mention, at the large trail rides I've been to Wrangler owners seem more 'cliche' than other Jeep owners(not counting Willys owners) You'll see Wrangler owners watching other Wrangler owners try and put their junk back together. Cherokee and Comanche owners aren't that way. You'll see every XJ/MJ owner in a group up to their elbows in a broken family member to get her rolling again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeeperjohnfromPA Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 I'm the owner of a 1991 YJ, bought it brand new. I gotta say, the ride is bouncy, ( I happen to like it that way). Mine has a 2.5L with a 5spd, I put a meyers snow plow on it a few years back. I wouldn't part with this jeep for ANYTHING! It's simply made and easy to work on. The 2.5L has more then enough power for what I need. The first several years I had it it was off roaded ALOT. EVERYTHING on it is original, well almost, It does have a Junk yard tansmission in it now, I did have the rear rebuilt once, and I had to replace the tailgate, (stupid 4runner commited suicide on it). I'm coming up on 270,000k, and it just won't quit. I don't think there is a straight piece of metal on mine, I've been rear ended by several different vehicles, bounced off more trees then I care to remember, sunk it up to the top of it's hood in a river, and laid it over on it's side. As far as wrangler owners being more exclusive, it's true, but not that bad, everytime I've been wheeling with my buddies, it's always a mix, several wranglers and plenty of other types of vehicles too. As for parts, there are plenty of after market parts. However it's hard to find parts at the Junkyards, as these vehicles rarely end up there, people just keep fixing them. If you like Jeeps, go for it, you won't regret it. Theres nothing like driving in the summer with the roof and doors off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 TJ's (coils front and rear) are just as bouncy, but I'm enjoying the snot out of mine so far. I can tell you, if you're not used to driving SWB Jeeps, they steer alot differently than XJ/MJ's. My buddy's YJ has a weird over-center feeling going down the road, and it kind of drifts/rocks left to right. The TJ doesn't feel that way, but because of the short wheelbase, the return-to-center isn't quite the same (a bit more sluggish if I had to describe it). SWB's require "active driver participation" in the driving process IMHO. If you even *think* about turning, the front end is already pointing in that direction, and I have to be careful to not cut corners too sharp. But, you can't beat the turning radius on them, compared to any other vehicle (jeep or not) that I've ever driven. They are a blast. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackel18 Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 i had a '95 sahara (AKA swamp Donkey) and i loved it. she was a beast, but i sold her because she had trouble going in a straight line on a snowy road. i sold her and got my 92 MJ and i love my truck. 4" lift 33x12.5, lunch box in rear (pic is before snorkel) Sorry for the big pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jared Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 get it, if you can't fix it cheap you could always part it out. i would like to own a yj someday but i love my tj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 8, 2007 Author Share Posted December 8, 2007 thanks guys, we'll see. it needs alot of work, it doesn't even have the engine bay harness, but the rest is complete. I want to build it with a CJ grille and painless on a 350 TBI or maybe an LT1, with a 700R4 trans. other than the body panels it needs, I can keep the project lower than $1000 cost, with the most expensive part being the driveshafts it'll need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 Is this going to be a driver.. or a wheeler? If its a wheeler.. just get a YJ hood, and grille, then run no fenders or build a set of flatties. I think your budget is unrealistic.... but that is just me. The wiring harness is right expensive. Keep in mind that the d35 will not hold up to any throttle from the 350 :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whowey Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 x 2 on the budget being low.... That D-35 won't survive a 350. The painless kit for a 350 with a carb is relatively cheap(compared to other painless kits), but then you get the problems of a carb. If the aquisition and repair costs of the 350/700R4 were low enough, you might make $2k, maybe if you had access to most of the other pieces needed cheaply, or just deleted some of the body parts you need. Take a Renix 4.0l out of one of your seemingly never ending fleet of Jeeps, and drop it in. I have the feeling you could probably trailer-park engineer a longer shifter for the transmission, and the needed linkages to work the t-case. The clocking issue wouldn't really rear its head, if you used the tranny out of an XJ/MJ also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 8, 2007 Author Share Posted December 8, 2007 it would be a road and wheeler truck, mostly wheeler. I don't want to renix it cause it would be a PITA to build my own interior wiring harness. I can get a 350 vette motor that runs great for $125, and it's complete. the trans. and t-case I can get from my buddy at the junkyard for free/the cost of an xj carcass. driveshafts would cost me the most, I build my own motor mounts, I can do my own wiring (a.k.a. build my own painless kit), that leaves me with cost of body panels adding up. so say I redneck it and don't rebuild anything, just put it together and get it goin...I'd have $300 or so in the motor and drivetrain, I have a 80 scout dana 44 rear axle with 3.73 gears and I have dana 30 3.73 gears that I could swap in the front for cost of install kit, and then just body panels. however, I think that this *may* turn into a AMC360/turbo400/dana 20/semi-float 60 rear/44 front combination. the 73 j4000 that I'm getting (for cost of a 4wd swap on a comanche) does need some body work, but it runs and drives great. I could sacrafice it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a1awind Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 ahh don't sacrifice a j-truck. The wrangler i had was one of the funnest vehicles i ever owned. I had a 1993 with a 4.0 5spd, i rammed a car with it, righted a chevette with it (pulled it back onto its wheels) removed small tree stumps and shrubs with it. That thing was a Tank! Pay very close attention to the rust and the frame. for some odd reason the 93 and 94 models are more prone to rot. i don't know why. Maybe crappy undercoating those years??? The frame on mine cracked between the steering box and the front shackle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 The hoods fenders and grilles are cheap since a lot of YJ owners swap on CJ front clips. I've got an extra YJ grill in the garage that I would sell for $50 A $89 explorer 8.8 solves the D35 problem. Fitting in a D60 requires some fuel tank relocation to get the axle in where it needs to be. This one is mine. 94 with a 2.5L and AW4. 4" lift 35" tires, 8.8 rear axle. Works fine at up to 75 MPH. IF you buy $#!&ty springs, like rough country - it'll ride like a lumber wagon. BDS springs make the ride pretty decent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CEThomas Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 I would like to get one like that so I could put a small diesel in for a cheep DD :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a1awind Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 talking about ride... if every you wanna get expensive. someone makes (made) a coil spring conversion for the wrangler. I myself, prefer the leafs however,if it is stock i would add a leaf if you are planing on leaving it stock height as the stocks can sag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 9, 2007 Author Share Posted December 9, 2007 nah, SOA the axles for free lift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 nah, SOA the axles for free lift Not exactly free. SOA on stock yj springs = death on the highway. You need something a little stiffer so you can hit the brakes without rolling the axle forward. Then there is the matter of the ladder bar that you need to keep the springs from wrapping into s shapes. Then there is the high steer you need because your tierods are contacting the leaf springs. Nothing wrong with a properly setup SOA, but it isn't as simple as flipping the perches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 9, 2007 Author Share Posted December 9, 2007 nah, SOA the axles for free lift Not exactly free. SOA on stock yj springs = death on the highway. You need something a little stiffer so you can hit the brakes without rolling the axle forward. Then there is the matter of the ladder bar that you need to keep the springs from wrapping into s shapes. Then there is the high steer you need because your tierods are contacting the leaf springs. Nothing wrong with a properly setup SOA, but it isn't as simple as flipping the perches. I understand SOA, and fabbing isn't exactly new to me...I can make it work. and, fullsize springs may fit in there pretty well...:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 I understand SOA, and fabbing isn't exactly new to me...I can make it work. and, fullsize springs may fit in there pretty well...:D Well, you never know. I've seen a lot of SOA's done by people who think all you have to do is flip the perches and those vehicles are a menace to public safty. What fullsize springs are you thinking of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 9, 2007 Author Share Posted December 9, 2007 I understand SOA, and fabbing isn't exactly new to me...I can make it work. and, fullsize springs may fit in there pretty well...:D Well, you never know. I've seen a lot of SOA's done by people who think all you have to do is flip the perches and those vehicles are a menace to public safty. What fullsize springs are you thinking of? lol, either an 89 grand waggy, or the 73 j4000? the front's no big deal if they don't "fit" right in, I have to make new shackle mounts and a new front crossmember anyways, it would be the rear that I'm concerned with flipping. plus, pinion angle with that SWB and the turbo400/amc20 combo is gonna be a b*sh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 lol, either an 89 grand waggy, or the 73 j4000? the front's no big deal if they don't "fit" right in, I have to make new shackle mounts and a new front crossmember anyways, it would be the rear that I'm concerned with flipping. plus, pinion angle with that SWB and the turbo400/amc20 combo is gonna be a b*sh Yup, V8,TH400, dana 20 is going to be a tight fit in a YJ. You'll want to find a front yoke from an early Jtruck to swap onto the back of the D20 so that you can run a CV shaft. My CJ2a was a 225 v6 with a TH400 and D18 to a Dana 60. But that jeep had an extra 20 inches in the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 9, 2007 Author Share Posted December 9, 2007 duct tape? would that make it work? :P yeah, we'll see. I'll get it forst and figure it out later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 I know where ther is a HP D44 in a F-250 so it mount in easy. It also has a 60 rear. They should cost about $225.00 for the pair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 I know where ther is a HP D44 in a F-250 so it mount in easy. It also has a 60 rear. They should cost about $225.00 for the pair. what gear ratio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 4.10 I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 here is a hood and grille for you yeah I no that it in iowa but I might be heading your way and could bring them to you for a little gas money. http://www.miobi.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=769 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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