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HO Jeep Cherokee AW4 trans issues


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So I bought a 93 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 2wd with a aw4. It only has 113k miles on it and was mainly used as an around town vehicle. The guy I got it from said it would act like it was in neutral after about 20 mins of driving in any gear even when put in reverse. I couldn’t even get it on the trailer before it did it to me. 
 

Brought it home and found a bad neutral safety switch so I changed that and no change. Also changed the tps with a known good one. Swapped a different TCM in too with no change. No codes are coming up and there’s no check engine light on. I’m leaning towards just changing the trans but wanted to see if anyone else had any other ideas. 
 

I drove it around some today after changing the tps and it idled around fine and I got it into second gear before it just acted like it was in neutral again. Cut it off, waited a few mins and I was able to idle it back to where it was sitting before it only had neutral. 
 

When it does this it doesn’t have any gear at all including reverse and unplugging the TCM to shift manually doesn’t work either

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All AW4s have an NSS.

 

Here's a cheap and easy thing to do.

 

TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR REFRESHING

 

trans plugs

Over near the transmission dipstick tube are 2 rather large connectors. One is black and goes to the NSS and the gray connector goes to the transmission itselfTCU fuseTCU location



. These 2 connectors carry all the info between TPS, TCU, NSS, speed sensor, and transmission solenoids.

Unplug each one, visually inspect for corrosion or bent pins, spray them out with electrical contact cleaner and plug them back in.

Additionally, if your Jeep is an ’87 to ’90 Renix, it’s always a good idea to reach up under the glovebox area and unplug the connector to the TCU and spray it out along with the receptacle of the TCU. While you’re there, find the fuse right in that area for the TCU. Remove it and spray out it’s receptacle and clean any corrosion from the fuse.

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Tested the solenoids and they all tested at 17 ohms. Tps tested good as well. Did make a discovery. Found atf in the coolant bottle and a milkshake in the radiator so I think the trans cooler and radiator are now one. Going to try to source a new trans now since I’m pretty sure this one is cooked 

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Look at the level of the trans fluid then not started, ie running. It should be up in the 'Z' bend. Then start the engine. Shift through the gears. Then again check the fluid level. It should be down in the fill level mark. Also, look at both sides of the dip stick. Sometimes one side will have fluid way up the side. The other at the actual level. That would let you know if the pump is working. 

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