JeepSchmidt O'Guinness Posted June 1, 2022 Share Posted June 1, 2022 Measure that new bearings outer diameter and depth to see if it fits your origional pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrustyBoy Posted June 1, 2022 Author Share Posted June 1, 2022 6 hours ago, JeepSchmidt O'Guinness said: Measure that new bearings outer diameter and depth to see if it fits your origional pulley. Yeah think I'm going to just switch directions and replace the bearing. Reading around other Renix forums it sounds like these pulleys are very hard to find. Maybe impossible to buy new. Stupid question (sorry) - How do I know with 100% certainty whether I have an open or closed cooling system? My surge bottle does pressurize as the car gets hotter. The level on it goes up, it has a "cold" and "hot" fill level line etc. But it seems like my radiator is not supposed to have a cap? Is that right? If there's a radiator cap does that mean it's been changed to an open system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted June 1, 2022 Share Posted June 1, 2022 Correct, you have an open system since the radiator has a pressure cap and the bottle should just be an overflow bottle, should not be pressurized. Closed system radiators do not have a fill neck. Edit: maybe technically it is closed if both caps are pressure caps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrustyBoy Posted June 1, 2022 Author Share Posted June 1, 2022 8 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said: Correct, you have an open system since the radiator has a pressure cap and the bottle should just be an overflow bottle, should not be pressurized. Closed system radiators do not have a fill neck. Edit: maybe technically it is closed if both caps are pressure caps. So on a closed system, if I get the engine hot and take that surge tank cap off I'll get blasted with scalding hot water right? Maybe I'll just try that and see how it goes haha. Edit: I've never actually tried that, I just saw the coolant level go up and assumed it was building pressure. There could be none. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJJeep Posted June 2, 2022 Share Posted June 2, 2022 2 hours ago, CrustyBoy said: So on a closed system, if I get the engine hot and take that surge tank cap off I'll get blasted with scalding hot water right? Maybe I'll just try that and see how it goes haha. Edit: I've never actually tried that, I just saw the coolant level go up and assumed it was building pressure. There could be none. I'm pretty sure all vehicles I've owned with factory open systems had COLD FULL and HOT FULL marks on the reservoirs. With the system properly filled, the reservoir level should rise when warm. My Comanche was my first encounter with a factory closed system. Fortunately, I didn't learn the hard way while opening that cap assuming it was not under pressure. I recently swapped to an open system when I had to replace my radiator. I also ditched the heater control valve. I see from your heater hoses, yours had been ridded of that thing, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrustyBoy Posted June 2, 2022 Author Share Posted June 2, 2022 Appreciate you guys taking a look. I ran it hot last night and unscrewed the cap, no burns. Sorry for the dumb question. Next dumb question - How bad is it that I don't have the electric radiator fan? You can obviously see the belt driven one in the picture, there's no electric fan next to it. The coolant temp gauge never goes past 210, but I've heard those can't be trusted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted June 2, 2022 Share Posted June 2, 2022 2 hours ago, CrustyBoy said: Appreciate you guys taking a look. I ran it hot last night and unscrewed the cap, no burns. Sorry for the dumb question. Next dumb question - How bad is it that I don't have the electric radiator fan? You can obviously see the belt driven one in the picture, there's no electric fan next to it. The coolant temp gauge never goes past 210, but I've heard those can't be trusted. The aux fan was an optional extra, part of the HD cooling package. It wouldn't hurt to add one, it would be most useful if you tend to work the engine on hot days at low speeds, although without an auto trans or a/c dumping heat into the system it won't be as critical for you provided the rest of your cooling system is up to snuff. It would definitely be worth your time however to track down a fan shroud. Your mechanical fan will do much more for you with proper ducting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrustyBoy Posted June 6, 2022 Author Share Posted June 6, 2022 I got the bearing in (Timken 203FF) had to buy a new spacer/bushing for it (NAPA P/N TEM 409157) so everything is quiet now on the serpentine belt. I suppose it's kind of cool to keep the original pulley for what that's worth. You can see all that mounted up in the video below. I took off the breather tube that should run from the valve cover to the air filter box and wanted some opinions on it. Is this too much smoke? I know blow by is common on these things but it's looking like a lot to me. This is after about 20 minutes of idling in the garage. If you wait for the end you can see the what the temp/odometer reads. I am not sure if this video will work, sorry if the quality is bad. Pxl 20220606 225752870.Ts.m4v Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 6, 2022 Share Posted June 6, 2022 http://cruiser54.com/?p=121 http://cruiser54.com/?p=131 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrustyBoy Posted June 7, 2022 Author Share Posted June 7, 2022 12 hours ago, cruiser54 said: http://cruiser54.com/?p=121 http://cruiser54.com/?p=131 Is there a part number for the clip that holds those two harnesses together on the intake? I ordered all that stuff from your links + a valve cover gasket so I can do that mod as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 That, I don't know. @eaglescout526 will know. I used to save them when I parted XJs out, but they're all gone now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 1 hour ago, CrustyBoy said: Is there a part number for the clip that holds those two harnesses together on the intake? I ordered all that stuff from your links + a valve cover gasket so I can do that mod as well. The harnesses clip together. I bought these for my 2.5L a few years ago to replace my aging harness and they just clip together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 I was thinking of the U shaped metal clip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted June 7, 2022 Share Posted June 7, 2022 7 minutes ago, cruiser54 said: I was thinking of the U shaped metal clip. Ohhhhh that thing. All it does is just hold the harness steady and in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrustyBoy Posted June 7, 2022 Author Share Posted June 7, 2022 1 hour ago, eaglescout526 said: Ohhhhh that thing. All it does is just hold the harness steady and in place. I'll just use a zip tie then. Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrustyBoy Posted June 8, 2022 Author Share Posted June 8, 2022 Put in rebuilt Bosch 4-port injectors from Trevor.skankfootracing@gmail.com. Good buying experience. Probably didn't need to do that though, it already ran fine. Still runs fine. Couple questions: 1. Do I need to unhook the battery and reset the ECU after I did the fuel injectors? It didn't really seem to change much at all. 2. I'm going to be taking off the valve cover to do the mod from Cruiser's page soon. Going to clean up and paint the cover. Is there anything I should be doing with the valve train while I have it open? I've noticed it starts to tap intermittently once the engine is fully hot. Takes about 30-40 minutes to get that hot and it's not real loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 No need to reset the ECU. Tapping is likely a sticky lifter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrustyBoy Posted June 8, 2022 Author Share Posted June 8, 2022 40 minutes ago, cruiser54 said: No need to reset the ECU. Tapping is likely a sticky lifter. Is there a preferred oil additive for these engines? I am going to change from 10w30 to 15w40 and was thinking about adding something like this to try to quiet that down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 1,000 miles before your oil change, add a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and run it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrustyBoy Posted June 17, 2022 Author Share Posted June 17, 2022 Couple updates: I changed my harmonic balancer because the accessory belt started rubbing against the timing cover. That was pretty easy to do thanks to the rental tools from AutoZone (OEMTools harmonic balancer puller & install kits). Also started to feel a slip in first and second gear, so I changed the trans fluid for the first time since buying the truck. I see a lot of people asking online about the square bit needed to remove the drain and fill holes on a BA 10/5. For reference, this socket (CIA Tools 2036) works great and it arrived at my door in one day. It seems like the correct volume drained out of the trans so I don't think it's leaking too bad. However, there was a good mount of metal in the fluid and on the plug magnet unfortunately. I replaced the fluid with Red Line 75w90 NS, and drove it around a bit. Haven't felt a slip again yet so I think that's fixed at least for now. Question - If I was going to swap out for an AX15 down the road. Is it possible to set it up with a transfer case for 4WD, but run it in 2WD? Would that damage the transfer case or anything? I would spend the money on a nice reman AX15 kit, but want to hold off on figuring out the front axle for a while. I'd rather focus on upgrading the rear end first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 yes, it'll be just like a 4wd truck leaving the t-case in 2wd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 Yeah, no dangers running a tcase in 2wd without a front shaft. Just make sure to clean up the flange and the bolt holes before putting the front driveshaft back onto it when the time comes. In regards to a manual trans slipping, unless you've got gears grinding in it, that's guaranteed to be a clutch issue. Changing the oil in the trans isn't going to address that. If the oil has been in a while, finding some metal flakes on the magnet is not unusual, and not necessarily a sign of impending failure, just regular wear. The magnet's there to collect it and prevent it from floating around and doing damage. It's probably a good idea to have a backup plan in place for a BA10 anyhow given the reputation, but if you're only finding flakes and not chunks I wouldn't be super concerned about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrustyBoy Posted June 21, 2022 Author Share Posted June 21, 2022 Anybody know, is there a replacement part for the EGR solenoid that mounts over by the fuel pump ballast resistor? I went to hook up all the hoses on my new vacuum harneses and discovered mine's gone missing! Tried a quick search on RockAuto and nothing came up for a replacement. Edit: or should I just leave it bypassed/deleted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big66440 Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 On 6/21/2022 at 8:20 AM, CrustyBoy said: Anybody know, is there a replacement part for the EGR solenoid that mounts over by the fuel pump ballast resistor? I went to hook up all the hoses on my new vacuum harneses and discovered mine's gone missing! Tried a quick search on RockAuto and nothing came up for a replacement. Edit: or should I just leave it bypassed/deleted? I deleted my EGR years ago without any issues, depending on your states emission laws you may want to keep the parts you remove to reinstall them for inspection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrustyBoy Posted June 29, 2022 Author Share Posted June 29, 2022 On 6/27/2022 at 10:34 PM, big66440 said: I deleted my EGR years ago without any issues, depending on your states emission laws you may want to keep the parts you remove to reinstall them for inspection. Appreciate you confirming. I will leave it disabled then. I suspect I have some bad leaks around the intake/exhaust manifold. Partly because I'm missing the front-most nut, and that stud appears to be broken off too. So I'm going to take that all off when I have some time and address those issues, I'll freshen up whatever is blocking off the EGR when I do that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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