Jump to content

Loose Fuse Slot


Recommended Posts

But per suggest let me say this full @$$ like....

 

That is a warning sign of that circuit being overloaded and heating up and melting plastic. Potential fire. Try the tab trick, but sniff around and check your electrical system over. Be sure to check out cruiser54.com for tips. :L:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, scaleless said:

A loose fuse is absolutely not indicative of anything other than someone pushing a fuse in a little crooked and expanding the jaws that hold it in.

But it is likely to lead to a problem.  Loose connections cause heat, especially when there's blower motor current in the circuit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd be concerned about a hidden clutch master cylinder leak if this is a manual vehicle, just because it's such a common and potentially debilitating problem. If it's an automatic, someone probably just jammed a fuse in too tight or otherwise abused the fuse contacts.

 

For what it's worth, the fuse slots on my automatic '91 are very tight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Minuit said:

 

 

For what it's worth, the fuse slots on my automatic '91 are very tight.

for sure I can barely get fuses in and out of mine. also a little dialetric grease might help along with the screw driver tip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the battery disconnected of course.

 

Here's a tip on blower motors:

 

IMPROVING BLOWER MOTOR PERFORMANCE

On 1984 to 1990 MJs and XJs, the blower motor’s factory grounding point is on the driver side inner fender under the sheet metal screw. This ground is shared with windshield wipers, front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps.

So your blower motor has its ground point 10 feet away from where it is located!!

What we’re going to do is leave that ground intact and also ground the blower motor on the passenger side inner fender much closer to the blower motor itself. This will also benefit the other components on the factory ground circuit. Take this opportunity to refresh the factory ground as a matter of course. Remove the screw, scrape the surface to bare metal and reinstall the screw securely.

Here’s what I do to get the ground much closer to the blower motor and add another ground point to this overloaded ground circuit.

Find the blower motor connector on the passenger side. Red and Black two wire connector.

Find a location where the black wire can be made to reach the passenger side inner fender, and cut the wire. You may have to do some rerouting of the harness to achieve this.

Take both cut pieces of wire and put them together into a yellow eyelet and crimp. Fasten the eyelet to a place on the passenger side inner fender with a sheet metal screw after applying OxGard to the contact surfaces. Be sure to scrape the attaching point on the fender to bare metal first.

Your blower motor will now turn faster and last longer, and the other electrical components on the circuit will benefit from a better ground path.Blower motor factory ground Blower motor new ground

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...