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Posted

yeah i wouldn't ever try to claim one is stronger than the other.

 

basically when it comes to the two its MJ44 first... if you can't get that then whichever is closest/cheapest/easiest.

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Posted

 

Having rear disk are nice. But there not necessary i wouldnt go out of my way just to get them. I run a dana 44 its stronger that the 8.8 and you can find one that will bolt right into your MJ.

 

 

I wouldn't pay the premium a D44 commands(at least in my area) to have a bolt in axle :eek: Even if you can t weld.. setting the perches in position and tacking in place.. then driving to the muffler shop, or competent welder to pay at the most 50 bucks.. you still come out cheaper then you would if you paid the 3-400 bucks a d44 goes for, and you would have disc brakes ;)

 

As for which is stonger.. we can debate this issue :brows: I have seen an xj break a shaft in a 44 on 33's.. while i wailed on my 8.8 on 35's, but everyone's experience is different.

Posted
Yeah I think I'll just stick with the 35 for now. Redo the drums and keep a eye out for a 44. I have a isuzu 44 but it has 6 lugs and I like my stock bullet holes.

another reason the 8.8 is popular, it keeps the same wheel pattern ;)

Posted

the 8.8 is getting to be a little to popular thou. Every body is looking for them b/c they know how easy and cheep it is and its a hell of a lot better than those weak old dana 35s.

I guess if you need that extra braking power its alot better than finding a 35 or 44 disk brake conversion that stuff is outragious.

Posted

I guess if you need that extra braking power its alot better than finding a 35 or 44 disk brake conversion that stuff is outragious.

 

Actually most disc brake conversion are based on either the explorer setup or chevy 1/2 and 3/4 ton stuff :eek:

 

So be cheap and pull an explorer rear and modify it so you can get brakes for a d44 ;)

Posted

NO it don't. It is plug welded to the tibes.. which is why most Tech articles list that as one of the must. It is strongly adviseable to weld the tubes to the pumpkin. This MUST be done with High Nickel rods, and should only be done by accomplished welders

Posted

here is a pic of my 8.8 with the tubes welded

and one of my locker in the 8.8 jamminz.gif

I say go with the 8.8 but then again there cheap around here I can go to Wrench-N-Go and get them all day long for like $100 some may have disk some may not but all will have 31 splin Right?

Posted
here is a pic of my 8.8 with the tubes welded

and one of my locker in the 8.8 jamminz.gif

I say go with the 8.8 but then again there cheap around here I can go to Wrench-N-Go and get them all day long for like $100 some may have disk some may not but all will have 31 splin Right?

 

I'm not an expert on anything ford. But I'm pretty sure there not all 31 spline.. I think that the rangers is a 27 spline or something like that. BUT I COULD BE WRONG like i said I'm not an expert on anything for or axles either for that matter.

Posted

what does it take to convert the comanche d44 to disks i was under the impression that there were other model (grand) d44s to pillage the parts from for a bolt in?

Posted

Be careful getting a D44 from a grand. This is the whole reason I asked this question in the 1st place. (little did I know that this thread would have a life of it's own)I'm replacing the dana 44A from my grand. The "A" stands for "Aluminum". Might as well stand for "@$$" for all it's worth. One of Chrysler's many attempts at fast, cheap production. It's strength sucks, and no one makes any parts for it. Aussie-Locker used to make a locker for it but no longer. The housing is shaped different from the cast iron 44, so you can't get a diff guard or any gaskets for it. Believe me, I've tried :wall:

Posted

i guess i wasn't clear...i have a stock d44 under my 90 comanche and was thinking that the grands disk brakes would bolt onto it. is this not so? is there an option for bolt on disks from the jy? if not how much work does it take to modify some other setup and from what should i get the parts from?

 

just interested in the brake setups because that is the only thing i feel that was sub standard on these trucks.

Posted

is there a front d44 that you can swap into a commanche. or any good axle. i know that currie enterprise built a comanche with a ford 8in front but I'm sure it was heavily modified.

Posted
is there a front d44 that you can swap into a commanche. or any good axle. i know that currie enterprise built a comanche with a ford 8in front but I'm sure it was heavily modified.

 

 

The Dana 30 is a pretty good axle. It just needs bigger U-joints and has been known to handle 33s or even 35s if the driver can be gentle with the application of the skinny pedal.

Posted

crown vic brakes supposedly work on a D44, never seen, just heard, but I read it on the Internet so it has to be true right?

 

FWIW, you can still find 8.8's cheap, they might just have drum brakes though.

Everyone is looking for the disk braked ones, so they just pass right on by the drum brake stuff, but it's still a 31 spline ford 8.8.

 

regarding the D30, it's not THAT bad. Mine has taken some serious skinny pedal abuse with 34" bias ply swampers. A wheel tire combo on my rig probalby weighs in at 90 lbs or so, they're freakin heavy.

Mine was from a 97 XJ, so it does have the larger 297X spicer joints in it.

The front axle just doesn't see the kinds of loads the rear does when you're climbing stuff. As long as you're not stupid with the skinny pedal when the wheels are turned full lock you can make a D30 work well. Don't bother polishing it with chrome shafts and such though, then you'll really expose the ring gear as the weakness.

 

The popular swap is grand waggy D44's, but then you'll have to do something in the rear that matches the grand wag bolt pattern up front.

Posted

I wailed o9n my D30.. and I think everyone here who has seen a video of me wheeliing knows... that I believe gas is on the right if I can't walk up it. MY d30 with yukon shafts held up to 35's with many full throttle attacks on many obstacles... it finally broke on the short side by the splines..but the made good on it

Posted

I'm coming in late...but will throw in my opinions.

 

THE 8.8:

 

As for as strength, (31 Spl) I have to give the nod to the 8.8. Its all about the housing here guys, its flat out BEEF!

 

As for it having the dreaded "C: Clips. Don't give it another thought, you likely NEVER BREAK THEM!!!

 

As to the offset pumpkin. again, FORGET ABOUT IT!!! Guys in TJ/YJs have been running them for YEARS!!! They have 14-16" Drive Shafts and don't have any issues. Its NEVER going to be a problem in a MJ/XJ.

 

The width is less, 5/8" per side to be exact. As long as you run aft mkt rims its likely a moot point.

 

Its likely got Disc brakes.

 

Readily available/COMMON w/ 4:10 gears.

 

Its usually cheaper to and easier to acquire.

 

THE 44:

 

Yea its got a weaker housing, but its got good sized bearings, good sized axle shafts as well as good spline counts.

 

No "C" Clips

 

"BUKU" aftermarket stuff out there for the D44.

 

Pumpkin centered and its also the CORRECT width!!

 

Speaking about the pumpkin. Its smaller than the 8.8. This is a good thing if are running a 33" or smaller tire.

 

The 44's, seem WAY expensive. If you can get of reasonable, go for it.

 

SUMARY:

 

I have a 8.8 in my TJ. Its a GREAT axle. I have a D44 in my MJ, its a GREAT axle.

 

Either one will be a great asset to your rig. If you find a D44 for a good price grab it. If not go for the 8.8. After all the above, I prefer the 44. My single biggest reason for preferring the 44 over the 8.8 is the sheer size of the 8.8. Its a GREAT rock finder if you don't run big 35's or 36" tires.

 

CW

Posted

NOt sure how much wider the scout d44 is. I also don't recall off the top of my head what the width is a a waggy d44.

 

As for if that truss is worth it.... thats your call. for a 150 it can't hurt, if you have an axle you have to keep

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