billyblankss Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Hey - Roadside help needed... I'm kidding I'm waiting for AAA right now but I was driving to my buddy's house to enjoy the fourth, just finished putting the six inch lift on so off I went with the wife. And a couple miles before I get there, slowing down and down shifting my drive shaft disconnected and fell. I'm guessing because the lift put it at a wierd angle and I did not buy a slip yoke eliminator or t case drop. Any idea how to reconnect? I'm about to get it towed to my buds house and I have my tools. Will need to get home to rescue my dogs so I am hoping it's something I can put back in place but google isn't helping much. Attached are photos from my back looking up. Your advice is appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Connecting it again is easy. But it won't solve the problem. Your driveshaft is now too short. If you connect it again, it will fall out again, and the next time it may do more serious damage. DON'T just stick it back in and drive it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyblankss Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 Ok. Not even an hour I'm guessing to get home eh... What's the fix, would a t case drop give me an inch to keep it together to get home to my dogs? Ha no but really I'm stranded so I gotta get creative. Disconnect and put it in 4wd and drive home with the front drive only? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 A longer yoke would help , but doubt you have easy access to one . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Driving with only the front shaft in will allow the tcase to spew fluid out and you'll probably need a new tcase as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyblankss Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 5 minutes ago, Eagle said: Connecting it again is easy. But it won't solve the problem. Your driveshaft is now too short. If you connect it again, it will fall out again, and the next time it may do more serious damage. DON'T just stick it back in and drive it. I do appreciate the words of wisdom by the way. Here's me right now... Randomly in rougemont NC... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyblankss Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 Just now, Strokermjcomanche said: Driving with only the front shaft in will allow the tcase to spew fluid out and you'll probably need a new tcase as well Ok point taken. I see they sell t case drop puckz that are like an inch. I could fab something and maybe that would make the angle just better enough to get home? Still don't know how to reconnect though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Slap it back in and run it home. Take it easy. Get home safe then deal with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Disconnect at rear axle and slide back in trade and reconnect at axle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyblankss Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 Just now, MiNi Beast said: Slap it back in and run it home. Take it easy. Get home safe then deal with it. Should jamming it in be feasible I feel like I can get close with just pushing on it. I'll buy a whole new shaft if that's what it takes but yeah gotta get home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJCARENA Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Just have AAA tow it to your house. You need a longer drive shaft. Looks like it was barely in. Your lucky it didn't stick in the ground and flip your truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 what the angle of your rear diff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 17 minutes ago, MJCARENA said: Just have AAA tow it to your house. You need a longer drive shaft. Looks like it was barely in. Your lucky it didn't stick in the ground and flip your truck. ^^^ Exactly. That's why you shouldn't just stick it back in and drive it again. The simplest solution is a YJ yoke. I'd have to look for the part number, but there's a YJ yoke that's something like an inch longer than the XJ/MJ yoke. It's not an ideal solution, but it's less money than a new drive shaft. If you need to drive it home, you can drive it on the front axle in 4WD with no rear drive shaft. To prevent the fluid from spewing out of the transfer case, you can find a small soda bottle and put that over the tailshaft housing with a hose clamp to contain the joy juice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Worst thing that would happen is the shaft could grab a hole and send itself through the bed of your truck and possibly send you off the road. Not gonna instantly send your truck end over end but definitely could total it. Mythbusters did a test on the driveshaft pole vault years ago and it's pretty gnarly what it can do. T-case drop won't do anything and you don't need it. The best option is a longer shaft, longer yoke will work as well. Get it towed as stated above, I'm surprised you made it as far as you did if you are really that close to reinserting it without removing the axle end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 I have the part numbers for the yokes in my build I could dig up. Don't be scared just get home, spend money or take some risk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyblankss Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 Yeah I ended up leaving it at my buds house and he gave me a ride back. Now I need to order parts to take back to his house and install. But to be honest I'm confused at how to determine the proper length of a new drive shaft. Even if I knew the stock measurement I currently have I'm not really sure how to determine how much longer it needs to be. I already spent a couple grand upgrading and lifting and a whole month of my time installing and figuring everything out on this truck ... I hate the feeling of not being sure if something is about to give out on me. My buddy recommended Tom woods but I am not sure what to get and I'm definitely not sure what custom length I need or even what to get. https://4xshaft.com/products/xj-cherokee-rear-drive-shaft-double-cardan?rq=mk_jeep~md_cherokee-xj~yr_any Its also tough to measure now it's an hour away. 45 minutes ago, MiNi Beast said: I have the part numbers for the yokes in my build I could dig up. Don't be scared just get home, spend money or take some risk. What did you get, a longer yoke? I think whatever I do I also need to at least replace the I think it's called X joint at the other end of the driveshaft because the caps came off and all the tiny pins came out. Id love to figure out whatever is easiest and most reliable to order so I can go rescue my truck and get her home. I don't think he has a big garage there so I'd be doing it just under the shady tree where it's parked 😑 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJCARENA Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 If you look at their site, they show you how to measure. Just use the link you posted, or this one. https://4xshaft.com/blogs/jeep-drive-shaft-tech-articles/measuring-your-xj-cherokee-driveshafts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokinn Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 If it were me I'd take Eagle's advice and seal up the transfer case and drive it home on the front axle. You're going to need to put a new U joint on the rear of the shaft no matter what. Since you already had it towed, if it was done on insurance then the next tow is likely on your dime. The miles ?? may make the cost prohibitive. You can then do what ever you're going to do at your leisure in your own space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Tom Woods makes good stuff copious amounts of duct tape on the tailshaft to hold the oil in should be enough to get you home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvertwinkiehobo Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Easy to measure for a driveshaft. I'll also talk about driveshaft phasing in a minute. Insert the yoke into the tail housing until it bottoms, then pull back about 1-1.5". Take a tape measure, and measure from the center of the yoke ear all the way to the center of the axle yoke ear. Give that measurement to the driveshaft company when you give them your driveshaft. As for 'phasing,' the centerline of the output shaft and the centerline of the pinion gear shaft need to be parallel to each other. If it isn't then the axle housing needs to be shimmed, on the front of the spring mount pads to lower the pinion angle, or on the back to raise it. Get it as close as possible to parallel, because there's no slop to rely on in U-joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apantozo Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 I had my rear driveshaft fall off while pulling my trailer on relatively flat ground. I put it in 4x4 high and drove 20 miles home. It did fine, but I was nervous the whole time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyblankss Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 18 minutes ago, Apantozo said: I had my rear driveshaft fall off while pulling my trailer on relatively flat ground. I put it in 4x4 high and drove 20 miles home. It did fine, but I was nervous the whole time. This may be the motivation I needed. It would be a nightmare to go an hour to his family's house, measure the driveshaft, go home order parts, wait for delivery, drive out and work on it in their yard. Did you take the whole rear drive shaft out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyblankss Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 47 minutes ago, silvertwinkiehobo said: Easy to measure for a driveshaft. I'll also talk about driveshaft phasing in a minute. Insert the yoke into the tail housing until it bottoms, then pull back about 1-1.5". Take a tape measure, and measure from the center of the yoke ear all the way to the center of the axle yoke ear. Give that measurement to the driveshaft company when you give them your driveshaft. As for 'phasing,' the centerline of the output shaft and the centerline of the pinion gear shaft need to be parallel to each other. If it isn't then the axle housing needs to be shimmed, on the front of the spring mount pads to lower the pinion angle, or on the back to raise it. Get it as close as possible to parallel, because there's no slop to rely on in U-joints. I'm going to have to google and learn about pinion angle. When i go to the toms site (https://4xshaft.com/products/xj-cherokee-rear-drive-shaft-double-cardan?rq=mk_jeep~md_cherokee-xj~yr_any) i could use advice on what i should be looking for. They can make a stock type setup for $239 - if i take the measurement as you described and give them that in the custom length and they make a stock type one would that cause any problems? Because I can upgrade, to the double cardan type for 300 (or 319 if i have the X spline instead of the S Spline which i'm going to google and learn about haha), but then i have to also purchase the slip yoke eliminator (https://4xshaft.com/products/np231-slip-yoke-eliminator) for 250, or worse 500 if i have a 242J transfer case (https://4xshaft.com/collections/jeep-xj-products/products/sye-242hd). I'm going to read about and learn about everything since this was a serious blindspot in my comanche knowledge. But i need to decide between getting the stock setup for 239 or the double cardan and slip yoke eliminator for anywhere between 550 and 820... which is a lot to me. It's not totally out of the question, but i just don' tknow how much of an impact the difference makes. Is there a payback period or a reliability gain that makes it all worth it? Or is the custom length option definitely a no go because i have a pretty aggressive difference in height between the transfer case or wherever the driveshaft connects and the axle? Really appreciate all the advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Get your new shaft before figuring pinion angle, it will be much easier to figure out with the new shaft. Easiest way I have found to measure for a new shaft is to put the old shaft on the truck if it's long enough, which in your case it is. Then find the mark on your yoke where the pinion seal has been riding, it should be pretty obvious, measure from old seal mark to the new location of the seal on the yoke and thats how much more length you need on the shaft. It will put it exactly where it should be. Otherwise most websites that sell shafts have instructions on how to measure for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertRat1991 Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 I would have slipped the shaft back in and limped it home. But if you are nervous about it, you could remove the rear shaft entirely, plug the xfr case output and drive it home in 4-Hi. They sell plug kits for this purpose: https://www.jbtools.com/lisle-23400-transmission-plugs-1-to-2-180/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl4v4BRDaARIsAFjATPk18WHhEghRfbIxcicI7xp2qzqCOTlHl-VjHg-GfjVDbQ9-uLKNfq0aAv7nEALw_wcB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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