eaglescout526 Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 Ok so I found out the 229 will line up, but the output shaft to the trans is too small and the shift rail bolt plug is stopping it from fully seating. So I will still be going the route of getting a t-case from a yard. On the bright side, I found the plug for the sensor on the trans I also found out this trans can not have the up-shift lamp switch unless I drilled and tapped the hole and well, i dont need the lamp haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 207 goin back in. AX5 wont accept any variant of the 228/9. Neither will the AX15, fun fact. But we may have found a way to still have "selec-trac" and have the 207 at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 21 spline 242? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 4 hours ago, Pete M said: 21 spline 242? I thought about that, isn’t that variant of the 242 harder to find though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 There are several on car-part.com just search for 1988 jeep Cherokee transfer case and select the NP242 case all of those should be 21 splines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche SS Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Some helpful info on NP-242's...I am currently doing a build with one as well. Was considering the 229 before hand but it had a lack of info, and the 242 is much better documented, proven, and available. https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np-nvg-input-gears/ NP23X & NP24X info is generally interchangeable when it comes to input shafts I have read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche SS Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 13 hours ago, eaglescout526 said: 207 goin back in. AX5 won't accept any variant of the 228/9. Neither will the AX15, fun fact. But we may have found a way to still have "selec-trac" and have the 207 at the same time. FSJ Guys have done the NP229 to AX-15 build and have it documented. I kind of remember those having to machine a spacer due to the input shaft retainer on the T-case protruding. Novak sells this kit for AX5/15 to NP208/228/229 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 19 minutes ago, Comanche SS said: sells this kit for AX5/15 to NP208/228/229 They don’t offer the shaft extender anymore. I further appreciate the research. I’ve decided to stay as original and era correct with the equipment on this build along with having the early year oddities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche SS Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 24 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: They don’t offer the shaft extender anymore. I further appreciate the research. I’ve decided to stay as original and era correct with the equipment on this build along with having the early year oddities. Ah, gotcha. Hopefully the link above for the 242 helps you find what you need. It helped me narrow down what I needed for the 23 spline AX-15 build I am doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Another option to use the 229, is to find a Borg warner T5 out of a 84+ 2.5 liter CJ5/7. Should bolt right up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 13 minutes ago, Eagle_SX4 said: Another option to use the 229, is to find a Borg warner T5 out of a 84+ 2.5 liter CJ5/7. Should bolt right up. Indeed! But, I’m going fuel injection and need the CPS opening from the bell. Did the YJ get the AX5 with the TBI? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Yes it did from 87-91 here is a cool write up on the history of the AMC 2.5 liter. https://www.allpar.com/threads/the-amc-2-5-liter-four-cylinder-engine.230002/?post_id=1085224100&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1085224100 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 18 minutes ago, Eagle_SX4 said: history of the AMC 2.5 liter. I knew the YJ got it. I was wondering about the transmissions that got mated with the 2.5L in its run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Yes the YJ had the AX5 my coworker has a 91 that had the 2.5 AX5 combo. He swapped the AX5 out to an AX15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 18 minutes ago, Eagle_SX4 said: Yes the YJ had the AX5 my coworker has a 91 that had the 2.5 AX5 combo. He swapped the AX5 out to an AX15. I thought so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 OH F THE HELL YES!!! WE ARE IN BUSINESS GENTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ok so for about a week or so now I have been fighting with the XJ not starting. Went down a list of things and found that the fuel smelled pretty damn close to paint thinner(few nights ago). I collected a sample of the gas and it just would not light on fire. Ok that confirms it, old gas. So I drained the tank last night, put new fuel in. Tried again. No go. Ok what the hell now?! So I went over some things in my head then thought about the timing as I was laying in bed. I literally dropped the distributor in and rolled with it. Stupid me! I shouldve known better. Ugh. Ok so I popped Little Reds hood open and removed the distributor cap and did the same to Chunk and mirrored the position. Done! Try to go again and I got a couple pops and fire balls. Ok thats not right. Checked the timing again and it was 180* out. Ok what the hell? Why? Put it back. Tried again and OH HELL YES!!!!!! Turns out I have a vacuum leak still. Its the damn full manifold gasket which sucks on the 2.5L. Could never get it to seal correctly or line up on Little Red and I decided to give that one a chance again and it failed. It has a leak at the intake manifold at Cyl 3 & 4. So back to the factory style gasket! But hell yes! This is a big win I needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salvagedcircuit Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 Excellent progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 I understand the feeling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 Indeed it is! Just gotta wait for the factory manifold gasket and I can button up everything in the engine bay. I’m still waiting on the down pipe. I really don’t want to modify my old one, but I might if I don’t want to wait much longer. Then I can start putting goodies on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 Hey, its starting to look like an engine bay! New gasket showed up, got that in, sounds like it solved my vac leak. Now to start buttoning things up and hope to get the pipe soon so I can start attaching accessories and what not. Also replaced the upper radiator hose. It was bothering me that it was replaced with a stupid generic flexible pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted May 12 Author Share Posted May 12 How did I get here?: Well everything is working as it all should be minus missing the down pipe and having the front drive shaft installed. Its still a bit of a mess but I am happy with this mess. Theres a few things out of place but thats ok, I will get to them which is the sensor for the engine oil and the brake sensors. Cruise control has been installed, not sure if it works yet, cant really go take a test drive without the down pipe. Had to use the later style bracket fun fact. Couldnt use the old one as I finally found out where the old style mounts and its where the ICM goes. Smart place to put and hide it in 84-86 but thats why the servo looks like an after thought for the Renix years. I am still fighting a weird issue with the sentry as it thinks the fluid for the washer bottle is empty yet it isnt. Its based on resistance to ground which theres plenty of but its not sensing that. Continuity is good at both coolant and washer sensors. Brake and PS are working just fine as well and are on the same connector and ground. Sensors are NOS and I want to doubt them, but cant as I have a NOS one in the MJ that works and triggers the light just fine. The sentry is no different. Oh well, maybe they just need to get a little warm. But it runs and drives, nothing is out of place and as it was before the TBI swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 time for the car shows!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted May 14 Author Share Posted May 14 Time to start adding some accessories! Yes, NOS flaps, painted letters and a vinyl AMC logo. All around. Still to do: Speedo cable, down pipe, running boards, wiring for tcase fluid sensor, install oil sensor, front drive shaft, power for trailer controller harness, ECU mounted, sentry module mounted, lower dash and dash trim bezel. I probably am forgetting a couple others but that is still a good chunk. Ha! Chunk! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted May 16 Author Share Posted May 16 One side down. Drivers to go. Per the instructions of the rear flaps, you have to take the wheel off. So I took this opportunity to do the brakes as well since I knew they were failing/old. I was right, only about a 1/4 of life left on the pass side shoes. Heres the NOS ones on: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 Got the other set of flaps on and changed the drum shoes as well. Installed this from G: So this one works, volume is meh and to hear anything at all, the volume knob is at max...makes me wonder if a capacitor is failing or needs some time readjusting. We shall see. I have two others, wiring on one is cut and the other produces no sound at all(thank you again G). So I plan to learn more about electronics and hope I can fix all three. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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