nknapp16 Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Anyone install one? I have the correct size 20mmx1.5 but the tube from the engine that slides into the oil filter does not fit through the sleeve that they provided(gold hardware in photo). Not sure if I can change that tube, or if they make a different sleeve. Already ordered a Sending unit Tee, but thought I'd ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 What is that for? Standard thread filter in place of metric? If so you can just use the standpipe/threaded piece out of a HO engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 The sandwich block has ports in it for some reason he wants the ports Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nknapp16 Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 Its has ports for oil gauge. Another member recommended, said it was easy way. It is the standard metric, the problem is the hose from the engine does not slide through that gold piece. Not a big deal, ill probably send it back and just get a Tee adapter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omega_rugal Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 ports for oil cooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Shouldn't the port for the pressure sending unit already be there, just with a pressure switch in it if you don't have a full gauge cluster? Or you want both a light and a gauge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 19 hours ago, nknapp16 said: Its has ports for oil gauge. Another member recommended, said it was easy way. It is the standard metric, the problem is the hose from the engine does not slide through that gold piece. Not a big deal, ill probably send it back and just get a Tee adapter. You have a perfectly good port for an oil gauge already, on the block right next to where where the oil filter is (2.5/4.0, not sure where it is on the 2.8). If you insist on running an aftermarket gauge, I'm sure it won't be much trouble to connect the aftermarket gauge up to the factory location. Easier to swap a full gauge factory cluster and use the factory style sensor, which is accurate enough so long as you verify it against a known good mechanical gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nknapp16 Posted May 23, 2019 Author Share Posted May 23, 2019 I ordered a Tee adapter to connect the gauge to the oil sending unit. My gauge cluster does not give pressure, just the warning oil light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nknapp16 Posted May 23, 2019 Author Share Posted May 23, 2019 And that warning light never came on when I only had 13 psi oil pressure bc of the oil filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 The warning light is useless. Why add an aftermarket gauge? Just swap in a full gauge cluster. You'll gain a tach, trip meter, and temp gauge too. The odometer can be adjusted to the correct mileage. This would also be easier if we knew what your vehicle was. You should create a signature: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nknapp16 Posted May 24, 2019 Author Share Posted May 24, 2019 So could I just remove the sending unit and put in the oil sensor for the gauge I bought? Or does the sending unit need to be connected? I'll work on the sig. It's a 90 big ton 4.0 aw4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 If you don't care if your (not working) warning light ever works again, you can just remove the factory oil pressure switch (it's not a sender) and replace it with the one you have. Somewhat related, anyone know what PSI the factory switch is supposed to turn the warning light on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 15 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said: Somewhat related, anyone know what PSI the factory switch is supposed to turn the warning light on? PS117: Normally Closed- Opens 3-5 PSI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 1 hour ago, DirtyComanche said: If you don't care if your (not working) warning light ever works again, you can just remove the factory oil pressure switch (it's not a sender) and replace it with the one you have. Somewhat related, anyone know what PSI the factory switch is supposed to turn the warning light on? Factory spec on oil pressure is 13 psi minimum at idle, 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. So I'll guess the idiot light switch probably trips at between 10 and 12 psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omega_rugal Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 it doesn´t hurt having both, the idiot ligth at least tells you when you are running low on oil pressure if the analogue gauge fails... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 As others have said, it is probably worth it to swap in a full gauge cluster. You have options of a full cluster with a tach, or a "3/4" cluster without a tach but still with actual oil, volts, and water temp gauges. Another option, if you want to run both an oil pressure gauge and your stock warning light, is to get a dual outlet fitting to replace the one in the block. Then you can install both the warning switch and gauge sender from one feedhole in the block. Much cleaner than using that sandwich adapter, which by the way, adds more places for oil to form a leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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