Jump to content

Oil Filter Sandwich Adapter


Recommended Posts

Anyone install one? I have the correct size 20mmx1.5 but the tube from the engine that slides into the oil filter does not fit through the sleeve that they provided(gold hardware in photo). Not sure if I can change that tube, or if they make a different sleeve. Already ordered a Sending unit Tee, but thought I'd ask.

15585306829412002152909982020528.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its has ports for oil gauge. Another member recommended, said it was easy way. It is the standard metric, the problem is the hose from the engine does not slide through that gold piece. Not a big deal, ill probably send it back and just get a Tee adapter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, nknapp16 said:

Its has ports for oil gauge. Another member recommended, said it was easy way. It is the standard metric, the problem is the hose from the engine does not slide through that gold piece. Not a big deal, ill probably send it back and just get a Tee adapter.

You have a perfectly good port for an oil gauge already, on the block right next to where where the oil filter is (2.5/4.0, not sure where it is on the 2.8). If you insist on running an aftermarket gauge, I'm sure it won't be much trouble to connect the aftermarket gauge up to the factory location.

 

Easier to swap a full gauge factory cluster and use the factory style sensor, which is accurate enough so long as you verify it against a known good mechanical gauge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The warning light is useless. Why add an aftermarket gauge? Just swap in a full gauge cluster. You'll gain a tach, trip meter, and temp gauge too. The odometer can be adjusted to the correct mileage.

 

This would also be easier if we knew what your vehicle was. You should create a signature:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you don't care if your (not working) warning light ever works again, you can just remove the factory oil pressure switch (it's not a sender) and replace it with the one you have.

 

 

 

Somewhat related, anyone know what PSI the factory switch is supposed to turn the warning light on?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said:

Somewhat related, anyone know what PSI the factory switch is supposed to turn the warning light on?

 

PS117:  Normally Closed- Opens 3-5 PSI

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, DirtyComanche said:

If you don't care if your (not working) warning light ever works again, you can just remove the factory oil pressure switch (it's not a sender) and replace it with the one you have.

 

 

 

Somewhat related, anyone know what PSI the factory switch is supposed to turn the warning light on?

 

Factory spec on oil pressure is 13 psi minimum at idle, 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM.

 

So I'll guess the idiot light switch probably trips at between 10 and 12 psi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As others have said, it is probably worth it to swap in a full gauge cluster.  You have options of a full cluster with a tach, or a "3/4" cluster without a tach but still with actual oil, volts, and water temp gauges.

 

Another option, if you want to run both an oil pressure gauge and your stock warning light, is to get a dual outlet fitting to replace the one in the block.  Then you can install both the warning switch and gauge sender from one feedhole in the block.  Much cleaner than using that sandwich adapter, which by the way, adds more places for oil to form a leak.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...