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Help! Track bar tightening


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Ok, so I've been hearing a thud when I turned my wheels at a stop or slow speeds.  Turns out that the track bar is loose--driver's end.  Simple:  tighten the castle nut, right?  Well, the bolt turns with it.  No way to get an impact in there so I took the whole assembly off to see what I could do.

 

So, now that I have the whole assembly off the vehicle, what can I do?

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Is there a way to take the castle nut off while stabilizing the bolt?  Perhaps there's a trick to this...  My plan was to remove the castle nut and perhaps put on a lock washer or even a plain washer, as it appears that the castle nut alone had been digging into the frame assembly end.

 

Not sure how the bolt secures in there or even if it does.  Do I need a new track bar perhaps?  If so, I'm guessing I'll need to cut the castle nut off?

 

What's my course of action at this point?

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The bolt shouldn't spin so I'd be planning on replacing the track bar.  At this point you just want to save the bracket so find a way to get it apart without damaging the bracket. 

 

Keep in mind that the bolt is tapered so if you cut it off on the track bar side, it won't come out the castle nut side (ask me how I know).  I'd probably try sticking a pickle fork in there and hold as much tension on the track bar bolt as possible and see if you can break it loose, use penetrating oil and heat if you can actually keep it from spinning.  If not, cut the nut off.  

 

Inspect the bracket afterwards, you mention the nut is digging in so if the hole is wobbled out or has too much damage, you'll need a new bracket too.

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Dzimm is on the right track (no pun intended). You need to create some friction between the tapered body of the TRE and the bracket. I wouldn't use a pickle fork -- that will also increase the friction between the nut and the bracket. I would try to find a way to apply lateral pressure to the TRE, so the tapered body is forced to bind up in the hole in the bracket.

 

Or remove the zerk from the TRE and put a jack under it to force the taper up into tight contact.

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Now that you have the bracket off.......

 

Drill a hole in the top so you can get an extension through to a socket and hit it with the impact. 

 


But, before you waste your time-

 

I know for a fact that the taper is different between the early AMC/Chrysler brackets and the later brackets. New TBs are sold to fit the later brackets. I've experienced this and I've read posts like yours enough to prove the case.  97+ bracket solves the problem.

 

But then............so does going to the HD JKS TB and being done with the BS. 

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Step 1, check craigslist. People give away stock trackbar assemblies for free. Trying to salvage this situation may not be worth the time and effort.

 

If I HAD to salvage this, I would cut through the rubber grease boot and hacksaw the shaft from underneath the bracket. Then tack weld a piece of scrap to the stub that could be used to hold it steady while removing the castle nut.  Then clist or junkyard for a replacement track bar.

 

Or, not do any of that, toss the whole thing in the trash and upgrade to a double shear assembly.

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1 hour ago, DesertRat1991 said:

Or, not do any of that, toss the whole thing in the trash and upgrade to a double shear assembly.

 

That's what I'm thinking.  With only a couple inches of lift (I have 31s), I'm searching for a decent setup, replacing both parts--bar and bracket.  I'm kinda diggin CORE 4x4's track bar kits.  Anyone with experience?  Price looks good at $229, double sheer and they have a lifetime warrantee.  I'm not an off-roader...only going off pavement on occasion to haul wood or stuff, so I don't think I need an expensive, fully-braced, kick-butt off road, rock crawling setup.

  

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22 minutes ago, coolwind57 said:

 

That's what I'm thinking.  With only a couple inches of lift (I have 31s), I'm searching for a decent setup, replacing both parts--bar and bracket.  I'm kinda diggin CORE 4x4's track bar kits.  Anyone with experience?  Price looks good at $229, double sheer and they have a lifetime warrantee.  I'm not an off-roader...only going off pavement on occasion to haul wood or stuff, so I don't think I need an expensive, fully-braced, kick-butt off road, rock crawling setup.

  

I have lower and upper arm control off core 4x4 on my XJ with 5.5 lifted, love them had for 3 years with zero issue been offroaded few times. 

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16 hours ago, MJXJjeepguy said:

I have lower and upper arm control off core 4x4 on my XJ with 5.5 lifted, love them had for 3 years with zero issue been offroaded few times. 

Glad to see this, I got their best CA kit they offer, I have not installed it yet though, awaiting the last piece of the puzzle...

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49 minutes ago, robbie95 said:

exact thing happened to me, took a dremel to it, cut the castle nut, then just replaced the track bar.

I'm a bit afraid that my bracket had been "wallered" out a bit.  For the price, I decided to go with the Core 4x4 combo.

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