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moparbrown

Headlights not working solution

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I’ve had intermittent issues with my headlights since I bought my 1991 Comanche 4.0 manual 2x4 and finally found the problem, the headlight switch was burnt up and bad. Got a new part from advance auto for $20, Part number S940 and everything’s working again. see below for removal and install instructions.

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-headlight-switch-s940/5971047-P?searchTerm=Headlight+switch

 

Symptoms: Headlights Intermittent working, flickering when hitting a bump, high beams and turn signals still work but no headlights. Difficulty finding the sweet spot to activate lights when pulling out the headlight knob. Smoke coming from windshield dash vent on driver side (could be a rare symptom as mine was melted/burnt).

 

1.Step one is eliminating any other reasons for headlights not working because the switch isn’t the easiest to get to. I checked fuses and did tips 1 & 3 from Cruiser’s mostly Renix tips found here http://cruiser54.com. This still didn’t help so I tore into the dash.

 

First you should remove your negative cable from your battery so you don’t short or shock anything.

 

Next, remove the screws holding the shroud around your instrument cluster.

7d7fd3951b10c06dec26b51e5eb67a2a.jpg

 

Grab the cover from the bottom and pull out- it should unclip.

d30506c4cf1a4a0d7f1606570293c7f9.jpg

 

Next, remove the cluster for fog light switch. 1 screw and 3 wire connections to disconnect on my truck.

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Then unscrew your instrument cluster- I didn’t unhook any connections, just moved it to the side.

cf0bd42849addd1c94bb21d089a8ca08.jpg

 

Next is removing the pull knob for the headlights. I removed the bottom panel (that includes the ashtray) for easier access but it may not be necessary. There is a hole directly below the knob under the dash that you can stick your finger up into and push up on a small pin that will release the headlight knob allowing you to pull it all the way out. 3ef3b42872d2a13db46ed5a54418711f.jpg

 

Then you can unscrew the metal piece with a flat screwdriver that locks the switch into the dash.cb02eb7be23a43b4a2374dadeaca195a.jpg

 

Your switch assembly is now free and ready to disconnect the wires. 1 main connection on the side and a small wire on the back. This was not easy to get to, so I used a flat screwdriver to help pry it off.c6b83213d667239af8d9f38617a8898c.jpg

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Plug in your new switch and test if your lights work. My cluster of wires was looped around another set and after untangling them it was much easier to plug back in.

e6bf5f26c7b00a5f2b8ac80f57bd4d2b.jpgold and new

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Fixed! Time for (more) beer.c504b9e3492a427e08f87198022af836.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

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wow!  that was one crusty connector! :(   Jeep really screwed up putting so much ampage through that switch.  :doh: 

 

'tis a project we all should do :L:  plus I would add in the relay mod and then live worry free :D  

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wow!  that was one crusty connector!    Jeep really screwed up putting so much ampage through that switch.  :doh: 
 
'tis a project we all should do :L:  plus I would add in the relay mod and then live worry free  

I will have to look up the relay mod and get it done


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This is precisely why we say this...

 

Swap in a headlight relay harness before it's too late!!!!!!!

In this case, "too late" is when your truck catches on fire. The problem is not fixed until you do this. The factory wiring forces full headlight current through the switch, and this is the end result. I would also strongly suggest replacing the headlight switch connector in your case.

 

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I would definitely replace the connector also and do the relay upgrade. You can buy a connector for a later Cherokee. I ordered one for a 96. You do have to cut a chunk of for it to work. They agreed more wires. It's very easy to do. The headlight relays are a must! And also easy to do.

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