Headlights not working solution

[moparbrown]

I’ve had intermittent issues with my headlights since I bought my 1991 Comanche 4.0 manual 2x4 and finally found the problem, the headlight switch was burnt up and bad. Got a new part from advance auto for $20, Part number S940 and everything’s working again. see below for removal and install instructions.

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-headlight-switch-s940/5971047-P?searchTerm=Headlight+switch

 

Symptoms: Headlights Intermittent working, flickering when hitting a bump, high beams and turn signals still work but no headlights. Difficulty finding the sweet spot to activate lights when pulling out the headlight knob. Smoke coming from windshield dash vent on driver side (could be a rare symptom as mine was melted/burnt).

 

1.Step one is eliminating any other reasons for headlights not working because the switch isn’t the easiest to get to. I checked fuses and did tips 1 & 3 from Cruiser’s mostly Renix tips found here http://cruiser54.com. This still didn’t help so I tore into the dash.

 

First you should remove your negative cable from your battery so you don’t short or shock anything.

 

Next, remove the screws holding the shroud around your instrument cluster.

 

Grab the cover from the bottom and pull out- it should unclip.

 

Next, remove the cluster for fog light switch. 1 screw and 3 wire connections to disconnect on my truck.

 

Then unscrew your instrument cluster- I didn’t unhook any connections, just moved it to the side.

 

Next is removing the pull knob for the headlights. I removed the bottom panel (that includes the ashtray) for easier access but it may not be necessary. There is a hole directly below the knob under the dash that you can stick your finger up into and push up on a small pin that will release the headlight knob allowing you to pull it all the way out.

 

Then you can unscrew the metal piece with a flat screwdriver that locks the switch into the dash.

 

Your switch assembly is now free and ready to disconnect the wires. 1 main connection on the side and a small wire on the back. This was not easy to get to, so I used a flat screwdriver to help pry it off.

 

Plug in your new switch and test if your lights work. My cluster of wires was looped around another set and after untangling them it was much easier to plug back in.

old and new

 

Fixed! Time for (more) beer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[Pete M]

wow!  that was one crusty connector!    Jeep really screwed up putting so much ampage through that switch.   

 

'tis a project we all should do   plus I would add in the relay mod and then live worry free  

[moparbrown]

wow!  that was one crusty connector!    Jeep really screwed up putting so much ampage through that switch.   
 
'tis a project we all should do   plus I would add in the relay mod and then live worry free  

I will have to look up the relay mod and get it done


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[Minuit]

This is precisely why we say this...

 

Swap in a headlight relay harness before it's too late!!!!!!!

In this case, "too late" is when your truck catches on fire. The problem is not fixed until you do this. The factory wiring forces full headlight current through the switch, and this is the end result. I would also strongly suggest replacing the headlight switch connector in your case.

 

[JMO413]

I would definitely replace the connector also and do the relay upgrade. You can buy a connector for a later Cherokee. I ordered one for a 96. You do have to cut a chunk of for it to work. They agreed more wires. It's very easy to do. The headlight relays are a must! And also easy to do.

[HellCreek]

This is an awesome post.  My headlights just quit working, and I would like to do the relay upgrade.  Does anyone have a link for this?  By the way, all of the other lights work and the driver's side high beam works, but no headlights.

[HellCreek]

Hi,

 

Does anyone have a link for the headlight relay upgrade?

[GonzoTheGreat]

I used this one from Jeep Cables, and I’ve had no complaints. It seems like high-quality wire, and the headlight sockets are ceramic. It made an incredible difference in the brightness of my headlights. 

[Eagle_SX4]

I bought mine from K Suspension and don't recommend buying from them. It is a cheap Chinese harness but it does function. Also don't buy fuel injectors from them. They claim to be remanufactured Bosch units but they are not. Just chinese nock offs.

[schardein]

Here is a replacement headlamp switch connector that is correct for 1984-1991 XJ/MJ.  This includes the wiring pigtails.  You can cut off your old damaged terminals and splice on the new pigtails with butt connectors.  This is a good option because replacing the damaged OEM terminals requires relatively expensive specific electrical crimpers to do it correctly.  Butt connectors can be crimped with generic crimpers.  Cover the splice with heat shrink for a lasting repair.  

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/335228868056?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bpFa1QANQb2&sssrc=2380676&ssuid=bpFa1QANQb2&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[HellCreek]

Thanks, Guys,

 

I bought

[HellCreek]

Sorry, I hit the wrong key.  I bought a new harness from Octane Lighting on eBay.  It also has ceramic sockets.  I works great, and my headlights are much brighter.

 

Thanks,

Tom

[Spinnakerblue89]

So, I have done this to my Comanche and I did this very same thing to my '88 Ranger, because it uses a very similar setup with a very similar switch. It seems that adding in a relay or harness with a relay takes off a lot of the load from the switch and prevents the premature failures in a lot of the cases.