Ratricha the 88 Pioneer

[JMO413]

Installed a new TPS and IAC today. Both OEM parts. The TPS was from Rock Auto and they are selling Mopar sensors under a standard part number. The IAC I got from the dealership from vintage parts. The truck now idels perfectly. It don't like the fact that it's almost to 800 rpm now. I've adjusted the TPS a couple times with the same result. It reads 17% every time.

83503643 is the part # for the IAC.

The old one would randomly adjust itself. For $20 it seemed like a no brainier. 

The automatic version is allot bulkier with the 2 connectors.

The one connector I need.

New one installed. The included screws were larger than my OEM ones.

Perfect 17%. Now to figure out the higher idle.

 

 

[JMO413]

So I made the slots a little longer in one of the other TPS sensors I had. Adjuster the throttle blade to cruisers tip. Installed modified sensor and set to 17%.  It does idles at 750 on the tac. The MT2500 shows it jump between 715 and 750. It now idels the best it ever has!

[Ωhm]

That throttle blade adjustment is a calibrated air leak. That setting puts the IAC in its best position for controlling airflow and idle. Do you think the first TPS could've been set to 17% or did you need the extra swing to set it to 17%? Either way, good news.

[JMO413]

I should have elaborated better. When I installed the first one I had to adjust the throttle blade a turn or two to get it to read 17%. I was guessing it was too closed. I was wrong! With a minor legnthing if the slots of a different new one I was able to adjust it back and get 17%. I didn't want to but that's what it took. I did check + voltage and ground at the sensor before I went all macgiver in it. 5 volts and .2 ohms of resistance between the ground and the battery. I was guessing they were good. But checked to confirm. I have added quite a few grounds, deleted the C101, and redid the crap factory grounds for the sensors.

Sensor ground to battery.

A to B at the sensor connector.

[Ωhm]

[JMO413]

Well my drivers side door handle decided it has served it's duty and have up. The button pushed all the way through. Looked at quite a few choices and bought a Depo brand door handle. It for good and looks factory. The bonus is it comes with the clip to hold the rod on!

Looks OEM

The clip was the deciding factor for me. My old one crumbled.

 

[eaglescout526]

1 minute ago, JMO413 said:

The clip was the deciding factor for me. My old one crumbled.

What needs to come back is the metal version of these clips. Where the bottom that sinks into the hole is plastic and the clip itself is metal.

[JMO413]

1 hour ago, eaglescout526 said:

What needs to come back is the metal version of these clips. Where the bottom that sinks into the hole is plastic and the clip itself is metal.

Agreed but at least the new handle came with one that works.

[eaglescout526]

18 minutes ago, JMO413 said:

Agreed but at least the new handle came with one that works.

That's true. Ive been snatching all the clips from warranty door handles and latches that Chrysler says to toss. So I do have an endless supply of those things.

[JMO413]

2 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

That's true. Ive been snatching all the clips from warranty door handles and latches that Chrysler says to toss. So I do have an endless supply of those things.

I have some in that I'll put these up so I can find them place. Still looking for that place in my garage where things go to hide.

[JMO413]

Someone posted a thread looking for these. When I saw it I thought I needed some. They are from skulldaddygraphics. They are only available on Etsy from what I could find.

Passenger side was ok to put on.

Drivers side was almost impossible to stick on. If I did it again I would order 2 sets in case. They look pretty decent and are a nice little accent. Hopefully the air bubble will come out.

[JMO413]

Finally pulled the speedometer cable out and lubed it today. My speedometer is almost smooth now. When I was pulling the cluster I realized how dirty the dash was. Spent about an hour just cleaning the dash and door panels. It looks so much better now.

Now I just need to vacuum and wash the outside!

[JMO413]

Well the old girl left me stranded for the first time. On Wednesday I was driving to work came off the on ramp and the truck started running like crap. When I got to the stop light she died. It would restart but not run for more than a few seconds. Drove it thought the intersection most on the starter. The good part of no clutch safety switch.Luckily one of my coworkers was heading to work also. He pulled me the remaining 1/4 mile to work. When I got to work I borrowed a fuel pressure tester from on of the techs. I had a whole wapping 11 PSI. I bypassed the ballast resistor and that did nothing. Changed the fuel filter in the parking lot. I then had an arm pit full of gas and still wouldn't stay running. Called a friend and he brought his flat bed and hauled her home. I was overly mad by this point. The fuel pump was replaced 3 months as part of the sender from MTS. Got a fuel pump from O'Reilly's so I could change it today. Got the sender and pump out to see the hose between the pump and sender had slid off the outlet on the sender. Installed good high pressure hose clamps and reinstalled. She runs like a champ again with 32 PSI. I will never understand cheap worm gear hose clamps! I did figure out you can pull the fuel pump and sender without removing anything else.

After I replaced the fault hose clamp.

Changed the other clamp also beacuse worm gear clamps are useless on fuel lines!

Good clamps compared to junk worm gear clamps.

Good fuel pressure again! No I just need to return the new pump to O'Reilly's. 

[rylee144]

Same thing happened to me but my hose was cracked. Kept it 3/4 full in the tank and drove fine as the crack was below the fuel level. Glad you got it figured out cheap. 

[eaglescout526]

1 hour ago, JMO413 said:

I did figure out you can pull the fuel pump and sender without removing anything else.

Glad you got her going again. I learned the same about a year ago. Even with the driveshaft in the way you can still service every part of the fuel tank without dropping anything at all. Its almost like it was designed by lazy but smart and cheap people. 

[JMO413]

8 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

Even with the driveshaft in the way you can still service every part of the fuel tank without dropping anything at all. Its almost like it was designed by lazy but smart and cheap people. 

Agreed. AMC =Actually Makes Cents. They just couldn't spell. Lol

[JMO413]

Had today off so the old girl got some more parts put on I've been collecting. Changed the passenger side door handle. I moved my original handle over to a new to me used trim panel. The chrome is much better on the new one.

New to me on the right and the original on the left. 

Now the interior chrome is in pretty decent shape. Someday I hope to find the chrome trim for the upper part of the pull handle.

Then it was on to replacing the AC compressor mount. My AC has never worked and the compressor was just sitting there as an idler. I also figured out the compressor bolts are sized in the bracket. I figured this out when I was removing it to replaced the timing chain and reseal the front cover. The bracket will come out with the compressor attached but it sucks! I got a newer style bracket so I could buy the readily available AC delete bracket/idler set up. Thanks again to cruiser54 for the bracket.

The old compressor is not too easy to get out siezed to the bracket. A little time and allot of patience. 

The old renix style is gross. Those extremely long bolt are a horrible idea.

The part number on the newer bracket doesn't exist in the Chrysler catalog.

The doorman AC bypass pulley. Part # 34171 fits perfect. The bolts that come with it are to long is the only bad part.

You do have to install the included bushing so the pulley lines up.

I also planned on changing the alternator since I would be able to access it easily. My original had a slight bearing whine and was a 64 amp. 

Bought a new ACDelco 100 amp. It was like $85 on Amazon.

I snapped the head off the bottom bolt on the alternator. Then I snapped the ear off the alternator it was stuck so bad.

 

[eaglescout526]

3 minutes ago, JMO413 said:

The part number on the newer bracket doesn't exist in the Chrysler catalog.

 

I found that most of the mounts and stuff from the Chrysler era don't exist at all. Its like Chrysler had one number while the part had another number. Perhaps the dual ID system we never use to search parts? 

[JMO413]

And that's a one eared alternator now. The good part was the bolt unscrewed with the piece of alternator siezed to it.

After that debacle the new one when in nicely. Reused on of the bolts that held the hose bracket on the AC compressor to replace the destroyed one.

Got the bypass bracket installed with the new shorter bolts I had to go get.

And this is where the redneck in me came out. I took the radiator hose bracket off the old AC compressor and drilled a hole in it. I screwed a piece of allthread in the unused hole in the AC compressor bracket. Then mounted the hose bracket to the allthread.

It hold the upper hose in place nicely.

This is my first until I can find an upper hose that fits better. Or forever who knows. I just didn't like it flopping around. The best part is cylinder 1 spark plug is all out in the open.

[JMO413]

15 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

 

I found that most of the mounts and stuff from the Chrysler era don't exist at all. Its like Chrysler had one number while the part had another number. Perhaps the dual ID system we never use to search parts? 

I'm guessing they were just stamping numbers. I've found a ton of newer parts that the number stamped in them is crap also. I'm guessing engineering would be the only ones with access to that cross reference.

[Jeep Driver]

1 hour ago, eaglescout526 said:

 

I found that most of the mounts and stuff from the Chrysler era don't exist at all. Its like Chrysler had one number while the part had another number. Perhaps the dual ID system we never use to search parts? 

You are assuming that is a Chrysler number.

 

I had an 89 that had primarily AMC parts, stamped AMC. 

 

Also, some brackets and the like could have lasted well into 90......vendor stock. 

 

And how do you know that a part that came off a 92 had not been replaced by an AMC part from an earlier model or a NOS from AMC? 

 

 

That's likely an AMC number, not a Chrysler number. 

[eaglescout526]

2 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said:

You are assuming that is a Chrysler number.

 

I had an 89 that had primarily AMC parts, stamped AMC. 

 

Also, some brackets and the like could have lasted well into 90......vendor stock. 

 

And how do you know that a part that came off a 92 had not been replaced by an AMC part from an earlier model or a NOS from AMC? 

 

 

That's likely an AMC number, not a Chrysler number. 

 

 

It is a Chrysler number.

 

My 88 is made with all AMC parts except the passenger side window, that bears the Pentastar.

All AMC numbers started with an 89 followed by the part number on every part that was made by AMC. If Chrysler used the part and never changed the design say the sidelamp markers, the lamp bezels or any part that remained the same from 84-96 still have the old AMC number stamped on it. 

 

Genuine Chrysler parts are stamped with a Pentastar while AMC parts have either AMC or the logo stamped on it. If its an H.O. part it will be Chrysler. If its Renix it will have AMC on it.

I have a few parts that are both stamped with AMC and the Pentastar, but anything that goes on an H.O. engine is Chrysler.

 

I have yet to run into an AMC stamped part number that doesn't appear in the catalogue. But I have run into Chrysler stamped numbers that are not recognized.

[JMO413]

28 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said:

You are assuming that is a Chrysler number.

 

I had an 89 that had primarily AMC parts, stamped AMC. 

 

Also, some brackets and the like could have lasted well into 90......vendor stock. 

 

And how do you know that a part that came off a 92 had not been replaced by an AMC part from an earlier model or a NOS from AMC? 

 

 

That's likely an AMC number, not a Chrysler number. 

It's an 8 digit number. Mopar- Chrysler party numbers are 8 digits. AMC used 10 digit numbers. It's also doesn't hurt that it starts with the digits 53. That is a very common start for Chrysler part numbers on the Jeep line. 20+ years in a full line Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram and a full line GM parts room is my main reason though.

[Drahcir495]

Very thorough build thread. Nicely done 

 

love how your taillights came out. They look like new!

 

I am having a horrible time with my speedometer cable making a racket. Can you tell me what you used to quiet it up? 

[JMO413]

13 hours ago, Drahcir495 said:

Very thorough build thread. Nicely done 

 

love how your taillights came out. They look like new!

 

I am having a horrible time with my speedometer cable making a racket. Can you tell me what you used to quiet it up? 

Thank you. It's been a nice way to keep track of what I did and when. I always try to list part numbers, it's what I do for a living.

 

Thank you again. They took allot of work but definitely worth it.

 

I used white lithium grease. The thing that made the most improvement was getting any sharp bend out of it. Also a few week placed zip ties for stability.