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JMO413

Ratricha the 88 Pioneer

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Another good day in the garage. Finally decided to do the C101 delete. I now feel a little dumb for spending 3 hours or so cleaning it. It took less time to just delete it. I think my idle is even a little smoother now. It felt a little weird soldering wires together that aren't the same color. Minus that and 4 wires that don't have a mate it was quite easy. 

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There wonderful C101.

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Wire cutters, wire strippers, soldering gun, solder, heat shrink, 1/4 socket,8MM socket, flat screw driver, ratchet, and something to heat the heat shrink. 

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There power steering pump holds a soldering gun like it was meant to be.

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Half way mark.

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I would definitely recommend removing it instead of cleaning it!

 

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Had some time last night to work in the truck. Decided to move the vacuum reservoir/ replace the vacuum reservoir The truck originally had cruise and I couldn't find the correct speedometer cable so no need for the dual reservoir. My main goal was to have less vacuum hose for less areas to leak. I mounted it under the coolant pressure bottle. I also installed my new to me relay cover. It really cleans up the engine competent. I also covered all the wires in convoluted tubing to clean up the engine compartment.IMG_20190309_164157124.jpg.2e9e2f441e69a3a2f381cf1692a6a481.jpg

There old and then new. 

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There new reservoir was for a 88 S-10. 

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You almost can't see it.

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I can't believe how much better this looks with the cover. Thank you 88mjsally!

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Back when I cleaned my IAT sensor it was nasty. It bothered me I couldn't buy a replacement if I needed too! I read on here you could use a AcDelco sensor. It does work perfect. I bought the sensor and both pigtails do I could leave the stock sensor intact. I also installed the new one in the air box. The two pigtails spliced together is the perfect length. After I installed it I hooked up my MT2500 and the sensor reads dead on with actual temp.

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Standard S650 Renix side pigtail

ACDELCO PT307 sensor side pig

ACDELCO 213-190 IAT Sensor

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Harness from Renix to AcDelco sensor.

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Perfect length. 

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5/8 hole in the air cleaner lid and the sensor screws in perfectly. 

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I need to go through and put split loom and tape on all my wiring. The factory stuff is missing, brittle or worn through.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I have split loom everywhere in my garage. Menards is my favorite place to buy it very cheap! I always grab some when I walk through the electrical isle. It's my 4 year olds favorite store. This corner used to drive me nuts! $5 later and so much better.

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$10 and now my foot won't slip off either pedal when it's wet. Dorman 20780.IMG_20190313_191241938.jpg.39f15bb286ead707151f30260c968ef4.jpgIMG_20190313_191412943.jpg.ba2f6caee1a83d74dc48d3004a022269.jpg

The brake pedal was tore up pretty bad.

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Finally built some battery cables today. I finally believe I am done with running grounds. I have a 2 gauge to the block, a 6 gauge to the frame rail, a 6 gauge to the header panel, and a 4 gauge from the intake to the firewall. I have also added the extra ground to the blower motor, an extra under the dash, one at the fuel pump, and a real one at the tail lights. I am about due for another tube of Oxguard. 

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I really like the military style battery terminals!

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Found the outer window seal I bought at sometime cleaning the garage today. They are super easy to change. If you roll the window down and just pry up they pop of the 3 retainers. Should help to keep water out. They also look much better than the old cracked brittle ones that were there.IMG_20190317_171228535.jpg.6ba26893e263fd2d973012268dc55d10.jpg

The drivers side had chunks missing.

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Passengers side wasn't any better.

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They both required a little trimming. They are close to correct just not perfect. IMG_20190317_172655904.jpg.78d114c2ed8abcffd35d975ea9609a95.jpg

They look so much better!

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Well worth $20 and 20 minutes.

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Noticed the truck was marking it's territory again. The power steering pressure line was leaking. While I was changing that I put in my new fan shroud. They are still readily available from Mopar. My old one was cracked and when I took it out it broke into pieces.

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There old pressure hose didn't want to come out. The pipe was rusted into the fitting.

IMG_20190320_193405122.jpg.80ebc6e70ee7ecb923819082c0589b07.jpgIMG_20190320_205321844.jpg.bfec940088300546b48bd4670c10e98c.jpgThe new hose looks out off place it's too clean.

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There new shroud sticker is a little different. But it fits perfect.

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The old shroud was definitely game over.

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yeah, they usually need to be in one piece, not 4. :D

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After seeing eaglescouts air cleaner I decided mine needed done.

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Taped off.

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Done. Really like the silver. Now to do the hold downs.

I also repainted the black on the hood emblem.

IMG_20190420_193351472.jpg.3fc9b615f0683a13a1aa1d5f5a3d8efb.jpg

IMG_20190420_213835616.jpg.ce65c7172b3a4af7b01c422f0bc53219.jpgNot sure who out the emblem on but it sure is cricked. Looks better though.

Got all my parts ready to do the clutch next. I have already replaced the clutch master cylinder. I bought a Luk clutch and a Centric slave cylinder. The Luk kit came with a slave cylinder but I have only read bad things about their slave cylinders. The Centric slave cylinder is metal hoping it lasts better than the Luk plastic ones.

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Got a new pressure line also. Now just to put it all in.

Also found a couple NOS CPS sensors also. 

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Kind of surprised how many dealers have these sitting on the shelf still. The old box shows a build date of 2001 and a ship date of 2001 also. That's 18 years on a dealership shelf.

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3 minutes ago, JMO413 said:

After seeing eaglescouts air cleaner I decided mine needed done.

IMG_20190420_190056834.jpg.dd65f7dc4c9eef2ba2345a3d2a9128f0.jpg

Taped off.

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Done. Really like the silver. Now to do the hold down.

 

Heck Yeah! Looks great!

 

3 minutes ago, JMO413 said:

Also found a couple NOS CPS sensors also. 

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Kind of surprised how many dealers have these sitting on the shelf still. The old box shows a build date of 2001 and a ship date of 2001 also. That's 18 years on a dealership shelf.

 

I may or may not have developed an addiction calling dealers on old parts like such to purchase. 

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45 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

 

Heck Yeah! Looks great!

 

 

I may or may not have developed an addiction calling dealers on old parts like such to purchase. 

It is part of the Jeep addiction for sure.

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The clutch had always felt a little weird. The PO said his son didn't like the truck beacuse shifting was to much to do. I believe he didn't like the truck beacuse he couldn't drive a stick. Pulled the tranny out today. Was really glad I had read about the E12 bolts. The pressure plate, flywheel and clutch disc are very glazed. Not sure what to do with the flywheel yet. IMG_20190422_182220876.jpg.dca34e7ed8927226ab9903b20e66fe04.jpg

Transmission and transfer case out of the way.

IMG_20190422_203952927.jpg.8605885cfd328818c432666503241afe.jpgYou can see how glazed the friction plate is.

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The pressure plate is just as nasty.

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My pile of parts in the bed.

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The destroyed cab. 

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I love that the console is just a XJ console. Thethe ashtray back there sets it off.

 

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Got a new flywheel today. I believe it looks correct with the CPS ring. I was really worried after reading about all the problems with AM flex plates but that might just be flex plates not flywheeflywheels.

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The pretty new one.

1556070655952365919516815290890.jpg.3e83d426eb66a1c2c9bf4b40c7b3e88f.jpgThe old nasty. I did try to clean it up just to see what I was working with. I measured the teeth on the reluctor wheel for the CPS. The teeth measure the same on the new as the old and the 3 large slots measure the same. I believe it should work perfect. Glad I own a digital micrometer. Now just to get a few more parts and back together.

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Nice explanation of project.  couple questions, I have an 87 MJ I am trying to smooth out the Idle. I've replaced the injectors and readjusted the TPS, replaced the 02 sensor and these seem to help quite a bit but there is still a bit up and down idle.  I've clean all the grounds etc. I was wondering about the MAP sensor mod you did, mine is working correctly but what does the mod do?

 

Thanks

Mike

 

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3 hours ago, TOP said:

Nice explanation of project.  couple questions, I have an 87 MJ I am trying to smooth out the Idle. I've replaced the injectors and readjusted the TPS, replaced the 02 sensor and these seem to help quite a bit but there is still a bit up and down idle.  I've clean all the grounds etc. I was wondering about the MAP sensor mod you did, mine is working correctly but what does the mod do?

 

Thanks

Mike

 

The MAP sensor mod just makes a much better seal at the throttle body end. The original push in style is very prone to leaking and or letting the hose fall out. I have chased the perfect idle since I got mine and it still wonders a little. Mine goes between 675 and 750 RPM. From what I have read I believe they all do this. 

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Finally have almost all the parts I need to get it all back together. The best part is I have Friday off. Hopefully I will be driving her again on Friday.

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Painted the inspection cover.

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New shifter knob mine was previously repaired and glued on. It's didn't come of looking very nice. New upper shifter boots. Bought two, next time I need done in sure they won't exist. New bushings for the t-case shifter. Happy to see these are readily available from Mopar still. New straps for the drive shafts. And a couple options to get rid of the e torx top two bolts. Not sure if I go with studs or bolts. I have both options available.

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It truly blows my mind that this shift knob sat on a dealership shelf for 20 years. The ship date to the dealer was 02/12/99. Hopefully the inner shift boot I have coming in Friday will work!

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Finally got there last piece to the puzzle today. After allot of looking I found an inner shift boot that is almost an exact match.

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The old one was beyond shot.

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Part number is 52078970AC. The screw holes match up perfectly.

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Well after a long day she is mostly back together. I just need to fill the t-case and transmission tomorrow. I also need to install the front driver shaft. I started it and pulled it forward a couple inches and back to where I started. The clutch feels so much better than it every has. Then I got my wife to help me bleed it. The pedal finally feels like a real clutch. 

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The old transmission mount was shot. IMG_20190503_094445112.jpg.ff73a1e092af954478576cff5eb9854b.jpg

The new crown mount didn't have the fail bolt in the middle so I made one.

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Had no idea they made an elevator bolt.

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It looks like it belongs there.

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I didn't really tightened it just snug and loctite.

I then forgot that I had a phone or how to take pictures. The short is new flywheel, fiber plate, pressure plate, and slave cylinder. Installed studs where the top e-torx bolts were. Had to split the trans from the t-case to get it to line back up. Of course four of the studs came out of the t-case. A to to the hardware store and all was back on track. Installed the new trans mount. Installed the rear driveshaft with a new strap kit. The plan for tomorrow is to button up the few loose ends and back on the road. I should probably put the interior back together also.It is crazy how much I miss driving this old truck.

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After another day of fighting with me and she's back on the road. Filled up the transmission and t-case. Fought to get the three screws back in the inspection plate for way too long. Took her for the maiden voyage with the new clutch. It all started great then took a turn for the worse. On the way back the tach was cutting out along with the truck. After I limped her home. I figured out the brand new CPS found the exhaust manifold. I then found the old CPS to see how it was routed. I found it had a little bracket on it that goes on a transmission mount bolt. I then installed the 2nd NOS CPS I had. After fighting with it for an hour or so it was routed the way the factory intended. I knew the old CPS was on its way out when tested it only read .35 volts and was slow to start. After the 2nd CPS was installed it was time for test drive number two. She starts right up no more long crank. Everything went well on the second trip. When I got back I installed all the new parts I had bought for the interior. New inner shift boot, outer shift boot, shifter knob, and 4wd indictor trim.

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New inner shift boot fits decent.

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New outer shift boot without any tears.

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New shift knob that hasn't been glued together. Still can't believe this sat on a dealership shelf for 20 years.

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The old one had seen better days.

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Everything back together and ready to go. I got the 4wd indicator trim on eBay for $5. Definitely looks better than the old trashed one. Now I just have to break in the clutch.

 

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Got a nice surprise in the mail Friday.

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I ordered these less than two weeks ago. Their website says 4-6 weeks. I really liked their steering box spacer. Then I noticed how beefy their upper control arms looked. I also noticed my WJ upper control arm hits my center section on long up travel. Figured this out when I pulled the transmission. I hope I'm half as happy with them on as I am with them in my hands. To bad they will have to wait a little bit to get on. 

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On 11/17/2018 at 6:25 AM, JMO413 said:

NOS oxygen sensor I got from New York.

 

where you buy sensor and what part number?

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4 hours ago, developer said:

where you buy sensor and what part number?

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Part number was 4713639. I bought it from a dealer in New York that still had it in inventory. I have not been able to find another one anywhere. And believe me I have looked.

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Replaced the upper control arms with Ironman adjustables today. Installed their steering gear spacer along with a mountain off road steering brace. The front end definitely feels tighter. The best part is my upper control arms don't hit my differential anymore.

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New Ironman compared to WJ upper control arms.

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This is where the WJ arm was hitting on up travel.

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I never really like how the WJ upper looked.

IMG_20190520_112041948.jpg.c5a401c349c8cea06e08716268b83dcb.jpgThe Ironman arms just looked better and are definitely beefy!

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Steering gear spacer is nice. I was also able to add an extra bolt too the spacer. Definitely stronger than the factory. And the adjustable wrench I had to buy to tighten the upper control arm nuts. They are huge.

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The bolts they send are too long though.

The 3 I had to buy an old one and one of what they send.

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Couldn't reuse all the old bolt because one snapped off in the gear. After welding a nut on it came right out.

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Finally putting my Christmas present on.

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Very happy with their product.

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The power coating is very nice. It definitely stiffens the steering up.

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