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Cherokee vs Comanche Blower Motor


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Good morning,

 

Blower morning went out on this cold morning and I'm going to replace it. Already found the DIY video, although performed on a Cherokee, but layout is the same. Here is my question though, is the Cherokee motor more powerful than the Comanche blower motor? Former has more cabin to heat, maybe it makes sense to put that one in? Or are they the same thing?

 

1991 Jeep Comanche 4x4, inline 6, 5 speed manual transmission

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10 minutes ago, Green Mesa XJ said:

Same motor but watch the aftermarket brands. TYC I think it was has a cheap motor but lacks power throughout the ranges. Replaced it with a U.S.A. made motor and it is a big difference

 

^^  This applies to every replacement part. When you cheap out it usually ends up costing more in the long run.

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x3 on the TYC motor and cheap(est) alternatives. The motor housing has a hole at the 6 o'clock position for a rubber hose that connects to an opening on the firewall just below the blower housing. The blower motor essentially cools itself by collecting air from the  HVAC box and directing back to the blower motor via the small rubber hose. The TYC unit and other cheapies have the hole in the 4 o'clock position and the stock "cooling" hose will not reach from there. Ask me how I know. :shhh: 

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On 10/16/2018 at 11:06 AM, Cali Cruse said:

Thanks. Will the manual show where the resistor pack is?

 

 

should.  but in any case, it's above the passenger's feet held in by a couple screws needing I think an 8mm socket. 

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Worth checking the Blower Motor Resistor AND the electrical connector on it. Tons of pics on line showing how they can melt. When I changed my blower motor I also changed the resistor and the harness, there are kits that include both and you splice the connector wires into harness at a point where the existing wires aren't brittle.

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Here's one reason they melt:

 

On 87 to 90 MJs and XJs, the blower motor’s factory grounding point is on the driver side inner fender under the sheet metal screw. This ground is shared with windshield wipers, front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps.

So your blower motor has its ground point 10 feet away from where it is located!!

What we’re going to do is leave that ground intact and also ground the blower motor on the passenger side inner fender much closer to the blower motor itself. This will also benefit the other components on the factory ground circuit. Take this opportunity to refresh the factory ground as a matter of course. Remove the screw, scrape the surface to bare metal and reinstall the screw securely.

Here’s what I do to get the ground much closer to the blower motor and add another ground point to this overloaded ground circuit.

Find the blower motor connector on the passenger side. Red and Black two wire connector.

Find a location where the black wire can be made to reach the passenger side inner fender, and cut the wire. You may have to do some rerouting of the harness to achieve this.

Take both cut pieces of wire and put them together into a yellow eyelet and crimp. Fasten the eyelet to a place on the passenger side inner fender with a sheet metal screw after applying OxGard to the contact surfaces. Be sure to scrape the attaching point on the fender to bare metal first.

Your blower motor will now turn faster and last longer, and the other electrical components on the circuit will benefit from a better ground path.Blower motor factory ground Blower motor new ground

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On 10/16/2018 at 10:59 AM, Pete M said:

just make sure it's not the resistor pack or the ground.  hate for you to do all that work if it was something simpler. :L: 

 

On 10/16/2018 at 2:17 PM, Eagle said:

Quick test -- if the blower runs when the control is set to the highest speed -- the problem is the resistor pack, not the blower.

Thank you kindly. The blower motor doesn't work at any speed... like the Corvair. I checked. So it'll be a trip to the advance Auto parts and get a carquest American made blower motor.

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did you inspect the resistor pack?  the typical failure is the resistors (giving just hi speed), but the pack is prone to corrosion and can fail completely too.  :(  I would also give power and ground to the motor to check its condition. 

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12 minutes ago, Cali Cruse said:

Thank you kindly. The blower motor doesn't work at any speed... like the Corvair. I checked. So it'll be a trip to the advance Auto parts and get a carquest American made blower motor.

 

Good luck finding anything American made at Advance except maybe the building.   :D

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6 hours ago, 87MJTIM said:

Hey! Don't go knockin' Corvairs! My dad had two and he loved them.

 

R Nader does not know how to drive, that's all.

 

6 hours ago, Cali Cruse said:

 

Thank you kindly. The blower motor doesn't work at any speed... like the Corvair. I checked. So it'll be a trip to the advance Auto parts and get a carquest American made blower motor.

Nader's book was "Unsafe at Any Speed".  He had a Chapter on the 60-63 Corvair swing axel rear suspension and some wrong claims about how it worked.

I own 2 Corvair's. A 69 convertible with 25k miles and a 67 coupe

 

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On 10/18/2018 at 10:54 PM, johnj92131 said:

 

Nader's book was "Unsafe at Any Speed".  He had a Chapter on the 60-63 Corvair swing axel rear suspension and some wrong claims about how it worked.

I own 2 Corvair's. A 69 convertible with 25k miles and a 67 coupe

 

 

This is off topic for this thread, but I think it's an interesting area. I had an old swing axle Volkswagen beetle.

I started a thread in "The Pub".

Gene

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