omega_rugal Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 you kept driving even when weird noises came from the rear axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Me&my86MJ Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 17 hours ago, 88mancheman said: I can totally tell this is underside bed of a comanche but that dana 35 looks like a Cherokee dana35 with low hanging shock mounts. Also look directly above spring pad, is that shock the main and only shock? Sorry to butt in just see a lot that don't look familiar to my comanche and maybe that could be the solution/problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 9 hours ago, Me&my86MJ said: I can totally tell this is underside bed of a comanche but that dana 35 looks like a Cherokee dana35 with low hanging shock mounts. That's why I asked for a better photo of the area where the axle mounts to the spring. It's quite possible that the previous owner used a Cherokee axle to do a quick-n-dirty spring-over lift. Basically, 88mancheman, we need a lot of photos -- good photos -- to get a better idea what's going on with your truck. In the meanwhile, I very strongly recommend that you not drive it -- at all -- because with the way that pinion yoke is set right now, you'll destroy the differential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mancheman Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 eagle thank you for the Info I got the new u joint and nut yesterday I've just been waiting for the weekend to swap it all around but I'm afraid with my slip yoke eliminator that the u joint may be quite a project to get removed and new one crushed in, ill make sure to double check the specs on those bolts tomorrow night before I start the project again though, would a new crush sleeve be 100% necessary? or could I get away with roughly 250ft lbs on the old crush sleeve till I swap this axle out? also ill run out to my truck and post pictures in about 5 min of he axle so you can better see whats going on P.S eagle I have since removed the hackery as jeep driver said, that was only a temporary fix to make it back over the hill with the truck and start working on it ive since then put a new nut from Ace on but I don't believe its at 250ft lbs, maybe 100ft lbs...... and yes dasbulliwagen and eagle I have a slip yoke eliminator on my 32rh trans Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mancheman Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 hopefully these can help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mancheman Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 I've been doing a a little bit of research and is it possible that this is a Chrysler 8.25 rear end!? if so is this a decent axle for this truck or is an axle swap still in my future? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 56 minutes ago, 88mancheman said: I've been doing a a little bit of research and is it possible that this is a Chrysler 8.25 rear end!? if so is this a decent axle for this truck or is an axle swap still in my future? Yes that is a C8.25 from an XJ. No reason to swap it, plenty strong. Luckily whoever did the swap moved the spring perches. If I were you, I'd cut those lower shock mounts off so they don't get caught on anything. Given the axle was swapped by a PO, I'm guessing they didn't assemble something properly causing your issues. You should go through and make sure all the bolts are torqued properly and make sure they got the pinion angle correct. My best guess without seeing the inside of the diff is that they got the spring perches at the wrong angle and caused a bad pinion angle, especially since it was spring over swapped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 an early 8.25 is only a bit better than a dana 35. it's the later ones that are the bee's knees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 Agreed, that's a Chrysler 8-1/4 axle. out of a Cherokee. The pinion nut torque should be 200 ft-lbs. Don't go more than 200 (according to the FSM). What I can't see from the photos is whether the XJ spring perches were relocated to the correct space (and angle) for the Comanche with slip yoke eliminator, or if the guy just bolted the Cherokee axle in and twisted the springs to [sort of] seat them on the Cherokee perches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 2 hours ago, Eagle said: Agreed, that's a Chrysler 8-1/4 axle. out of a Cherokee. The pinion nut torque should be 200 ft-lbs. Don't go more than 200 (according to the FSM). What I can't see from the photos is whether the XJ spring perches were relocated to the correct space (and angle) for the Comanche with slip yoke eliminator, or if the guy just bolted the Cherokee axle in and twisted the springs to [sort of] seat them on the Cherokee perches. If you look at the factory XJ shock mounts, you can see the cutouts for the u bolts have been widened to accommodate the new ubolt location. Looks as tho the PO also welded on tabs to act as lower shock mounts off the side of the XJ mounts. Factory XJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mancheman Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 Thank you all for the responses I've taken the "swap Dana 35" off my imminently fix list as y'all confirmed that this is a Chrysler 8 1/4 axle and hopefully better than a Dana 35, also eagle the pinion nut should be set to around 200 ft lbs but its only at about 100ish right now with some locktite, I'll try and take your advise and take the silverado to work tomorrow and rent a 250ft lbs torque wrench after work and re tighten the nut down to 200ft lbs, other than that does the rear axle look correct or does it look like I could have some other issues as well? also is their a difference in size between the Chrysler 8 1/4 suspension setup and a Dana 35? I believe the El cheapo shocks I have are for a Dana 35 setup as they are super long and only have about 1/4 of suspension before bottoming out.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 C8.25 is close to a D44 as far as strength. I've never heard of one breaking. You really need to get a cheap dial angle indicator to find your pinion angles. From your pictures it looks like your pinion is pointed at the transfer case, which is incorrect for a slip yoke style drive shaft. Digital angle finder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JNS7V6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_d.yRBbD3RA163 Dial angle finder: (this is the one I bought and used for my axle swap). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T807/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_qazRBbBS4VEJJ Since you are spring over, you will need to get shorter shocks since the shock mount is now on top of the axle. You could also make a tab on the axle to get longer shocks in there. That hack job of a mount on the bottom of the axle should be cut off. Check out some spring over axle swap threads to find what others have done for shocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJCARENA Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 36 minutes ago, Dzimm said: From your pictures it looks like your pinion is pointed at the transfer case, which is incorrect for a slip yoke style drive shaft. Looks like he has a slip yoke eliminator. Will your shocks reach the mounting plates that are welded on the original shock mounts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 9 minutes ago, MJCARENA said: Looks like he has a slip yoke eliminator. Will your shocks reach the mounting plates that are welded on the original shock mounts? Ah good catch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mancheman Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 Dzimm I ordered the dial angle finder it seems a little more straight forward, does my pinion angle being too positive have an affect on the SYE?or is it unsafe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mancheman Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 or is it irreverent what the angle is if it have a Slip yoke eliminator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mancheman Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 MJCARENA could you clarify that a little more? my shocks are currently mounted to the stock location on the frame under the bed and mounted to the top side of the axle mount on top of the leaf spring which I believe is the stock location right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 1 hour ago, 88mancheman said: or is it irreverent what the angle is if it have a Slip yoke eliminator? It's still relevant. You want the pinion angle to be 2 degrees (or so) below being inline with the output yoke on the tcase at static height/loading. That's the Coles notes at least, I'll spare the long explanation. Currently it looks high, but I'm not convinced it's an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 3 hours ago, Dzimm said: C8.25 is close to a D44 as far as strength. I've never heard of one breaking. You really need to get a cheap dial angle indicator to find your pinion angles. From your pictures it looks like your pinion is pointed at the transfer case, which is incorrect for a slip yoke style drive shaft. Absolutely agree on the angle finder. Your driveshaft has what's called a double Cardan joint at the front. Like the front driveshaft in a 4WD XJ or MJ, the double Cardan has 2 u-joints in it, so they cancel each other out. That means at the rear u-joint (the one at the differential pinion), you want the u-joint to be operating as close as possible to a zero angle (i.e. straight -- the pinion snout of the differential should be pointing straight at the driveshaft). Actually, at rest it shouldn't be exactly zero (see Dirty's post above), but nearly zero. It wants to be at zero degrees when you're going down the road under light to moderate load, which means the torque is twisting the axle and the springs a little bit. or is it irreverent what the angle is if it have a Slip yoke eliminator? The SYE does make a difference. In a stock XJ or MJ, the angle between the transfer case output shaft and the upper end of the driveshaft should be the same as the angle between the pinion snout and the rear part of the drive shaft, when those angles match, the two u-joints don't fight each other. But with a double Cardan joint, you're adding a third u-joint. The two in the double Cardan are both operating at an angle, so they cancel each other out. The third one -- the one back at the differential -- needs to operate at approximately zero so that it doesn't introduce vibrations into the drive line. Is it "unsafe" if the angle is wrong? Not really -- just buy stock in a company that makes u-joints for Jeeps, because you'll be replacing them frequently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 6 hours ago, Dzimm said: If you look at the factory XJ shock mounts, you can see the cutouts for the u bolts have been widened to accommodate the new ubolt location. You have better eyes than I do, Mate. I don't know how or where you're seeing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 52 minutes ago, Eagle said: You have better eyes than I do, Mate. I don't know how or where you're seeing that. This will help. OP's truck. Ubolt hole is cutout and ubolt is moved over. Stock XJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 9 hours ago, DirtyComanche said: That's the Coles notes at least had to google that. on this side of the border they are Cliff notes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 It also has only 3 leaves in the spring pack, I assume to make up for a lower front lift. And the shocks are almost completely compressed. I have them like that on my truck too, and I can feel them bottoming out over small bumps. Ill be doing relocation brackets soon as I can't take it bottoming out too much longer. I assume this one would be doing the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 Almost forgot.... 32RH TRANS??? Thats a light duty version of the TF727 3 speed. They were offered on the Grand Wagoneer, but never in an XJ or MJ. Are you sure about the trans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 8 hours ago, Dzimm said: This will help. OP's truck. Ubolt hole is cutout and ubolt is moved over. Good eye -- I completely missed that. I was looking at the spring perch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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