Using bolts/nuts instead of Flare "Applique" Retainers

[coolwind57]

Here's a question for you guys that had decided to simply use nuts and bolts to reattach your flares, versus restoring the original flare retainer pieces:

 

Any regrets?  Do you have any viable gaps in area between each bolt when you look at your flares?  Perhaps noticeable sagging or curling or anything?  My concern is perhaps the use of bolts over the retainer will become noticable , especially in temperature extremes. 

 

BTW, yes, common experience here on my end...Nearly all original 5mm studs on my retainers snapped during removal. 

 

 

[sinkrun]

Mine are going on three years no issues at all I did use some washers with mine.

 

You also can grind/drill the broken studs out and weld some new bolts or all thead in there place. If using bolts use one with thin heads or grind them down some.

[Rockfrog]

I ground them flush, then drilled new holes in line with the flares holes (so where the studs were) and used bolts/washers/nuts to retain my flares.

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[kryptronic]

YJ flares are retained using a screw through the flare and tub into a small plastic mount.  I don't think you'll notice any issues ditching them on an MJ or XJ.  

[Dzimm]

I have flare brackets that I had to use nuts and bolts on.  I see no reason you'd have issues.  You can use large flat washers to help spread the load out over the plastic. 

[coolwind57]

Thanks fellas.  Besides the broken studs, my brackets are in decent shape, but I suppose I now feel that the extra time in modifying them is probably not worth it if nuts and bolts work just as well. 

 

Maybe I'm being too anal, but metal bracket against metal fender was also a bit unsettling.  These areas are pretty darn prone to rusting.  

[HOrnbrod]

1 hour ago, coolwind57 said:

Maybe I'm being too anal, but metal bracket against metal fender was also a bit unsettling.  These areas are pretty darn prone to rusting.  

 

The brackets don't contact the fender. They sit on the inside lip of the flare. 

[coolwind57]

 
The brackets don't contact the fender. They sit on the inside lip of the flare. 

Oh I misspoke then. I suppose I forgot exactly how they attached when I removed them.


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[youngfred]

...

 

 

Hey guys,

Been lurking for a couple of years until I could find a 91 or 92.

Well finally found a 91 Eliminator and have been slowly bringing it up.

 

Just finished my fender flare cleanup. I broke a number of studs in the process

of removing and I am trying the following, especially on the rear flares.

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

[youngfred]

...

 

 

I removed the leftover,  pressed stud heads and expanded the hole for the poly-nut rivet.

You have to keep the expanded hole  equal to the original stud center, in order for the flare

and the fender holes to line up.

 

I used the 5mm poly-nut rivets. The new bolt goes in - from the outside in.

 

I am going to see if these hold up.

 

 

youngfred

 

 

[Eagle]

I like the nut setter idea!

 

I drilled out the broken studs, threaded the holes, and screwed in 6mm bolts, using epoxy to lock them to the retainer plates. I went up from 5mm to 6mm because I think 5mm is just too small. I also used anti-sieze on the threads when I put on the flares.

[Jeep Driver]

44 minutes ago, Eagle said:

I like the nut setter idea!

 

I drilled out the broken studs, threaded the holes, and screwed in 6mm bolts, using epoxy to lock them to the retainer plates. I went up from 5mm to 6mm because I think 5mm is just too small. I also used anti-sieze on the threads when I put on the flares.

That's what I did too.

[HOrnbrod]

3 hours ago, Eagle said:

I like the nut setter idea!

 

I drilled out the broken studs, threaded the holes, and screwed in 6mm bolts, using epoxy to lock them to the retainer plates. I went up from 5mm to 6mm because I think 5mm is just too small. I also used anti-sieze on the threads when I put on the flares.

 

Hope you used stainless replacement bolts. 

[Dzimm]

I like the idea of using the rivnuts but for those if us in the rust belt I would be weary about doing this.    When those brackets rust out, you're gonna have rivnuts spinning in the rusted out Brackets and be a real pain to get out. 

[SVPete]

I punched out the broken studs and used regular old 1/4 inch coarse thread bolts, nuts, and fender washers.

 

I don't live in the rust belt, but I concur with Dzimm's caution. I might have to take them off again in another 25 years......or sooner.

[youngfred]

...

 

 

The original mounting has each stud/nut sticking out around the wheel well, with the

nut and the threads exposed to the elements. Even after cleaning and wire-brushing all

of the exposed threads, some of the studs still snapped.

 

The rivet-nuts are installed with the nut/threads facing in the opposite direction and they

ride inside and behind the outer lip of the - Inner Protective Panel.

 

Now, the only thing showing around the wheel well is the head of the (new) bolt that screws

into the rivet-nuts.

 

 

youngfred

 

 

[youngfred]

...

 

 

What is the best way to install these - Fender Liner Body Rivets ?

(I have easily removed but never installed these)

 

Rivet Gun or simply use pliers and wire cutters ?

 

Thanks.

 

youngfred

 

 

[HOrnbrod]

Where are you planning on using these? Up front for the fender liner? I used aluminum pop rivets with washers for that. The rest of the fasteners on the liners are plastic push-pins.

[youngfred]

31 minutes ago, HOrnbrod said:

Where are you planning on using these? Up front for the fender liner? I used aluminum pop rivets with washers for that.

...

 

 

I did not remove those because the front-flaps were still in good shape

compared to the fender liner.

 

I will be installing on the outside, front-corners where the fender flares meet the front deflector.

 

My pop rivet gun nose pieces do not go up to that diameter.

 

~

 

As I recall,  used these on the replaced front-fender liners.

 

 

youngfred

[HOrnbrod]

Mine will handle up to 1/4" rivets. Using these with washers on both sides of the aluminum rivets it was a good secure bonding. I also used fender washers on the same push pins you used to provide more surface area strength for the liners.

[youngfred]

Just now, HOrnbrod said:

Mine will handle up to 1/4" rivets. Using these with washers on both sides of the aluminum rivets it was a good secure bonding. I also used fender washers on the same push pins you used to provide more surface area strength for the liners.

...

 

 

Thanks,

 

Aluminum rivets with fender washers sounds like a good option.

 

 

youngfred

[SVPete]

22 hours ago, youngfred said:

...

 

 

What is the best way to install these - Fender Liner Body Rivets ?

(I have easily removed but never installed these)

 

Rivet Gun or simply use pliers and wire cutters ?

 

Thanks.

 

youngfred

 

 

If you are referring to the plastic rivets that hold the rubber type flap attached to the front of the fender liner......again, I used regular, old 1/4 inch bolts, nuts, and fender washers.

[youngfred]

9 minutes ago, SVPete said:

If you are referring to the plastic rivets that hold the rubber type flap attached to the front of the fender liner......again, I used regular, old 1/4 inch bolts, nuts, and fender washers.

...

 

 

Are you referring to these (20) :

 

 

Mine were solid and in good shape so I

left those alone.

 

 

youngfred

[SVPete]

Yes, number 20.

[coolwind57]

Ok, so I decided to go with reusing my flare retainers instead of using the bolts and washers re-install.  I saw renovating them as a fun thing to do when I wanted to get out of my office and run down to my shop during my workday.  Plus I just thought of throwing them away as a unnecessary waste.

 

Drilled out the backside: and ran my tap through:

 

Used 1/4-20 hex head bolts.  i went with regular zinc coated, not stainless.  Didn't see the need for the extra expense and I don't see snapping my future rusted bolts for at least another 30-40 years or so.  I likely won't be around quite that long anyhow.  And if I am, then I'll just get some snot-nosed youngster to remove my flares then and pay him to deal with them.  Surface prepped the raised area so that  I can shoot on a little spot weld for added bolt stability.  

 

 

Here' what they look like complete with associated fasteners:  

 

I got them home now and will wire brush and put on a nice coat of paint tonight.  Just thought I'd share this and the pics for those choosing to do this in the future.