Egm89 Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Hello guys! Have little problem here, hopefully you guys can help me to sort it out. Well it turns out that I had some free time yeastearday and decided to do the cruiser renix tips; everything from 1-4, couldntbdo 5 because I don't have much of knowledge using a voltmeter (I do have one). Well I thought I did a good job cleaning and adding grounds where it needed, but it seems that I did not haha. Now my truck doesnt whant to start anymore. It just cranks but no turning on. I think I have an idead were I messed up, even though not my fault here; check this out. That connector seems faulty in my opinion, what do u guys think? Btw. 87 swb 4.0 2wd, it was working "fine" before, well a little rich (10 mpg rich haha), pretty much stock besides a set of 746 injector and 30" tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 That connector looks worse than "faulty" to me -- IMHO she's be broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tugalo Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 is your rig stick shift or auto? that connector looks like the connector for the transmission control, if you have a stick, it is not used. The 3 pin connector looks like the TPS connector, it is important. A voltmeter is pretty simple, everything on your truck is 12 volts DC. Set the meter to the DC value nearest to 12V. Then ground the black lead and put the red lead on whatever you are trying to measure. A good place to check if your meter is working and your technique is correct; put the black lead on the battery - post and the red lead on the + post. Meter should read 12vdc. Remember that some circuits are not powered until the key is on. If you are checking for a broken wire, put the meter on the lowest resistance setting (measured in ohms), the meter has an internal battery that supplies enough voltage to force a small current thru the wire if it is good (you have continuity), and you will read an ohms value. If you are looking for a ground, the ohms (resistance value) should be less than one ohm. Most automobile circuits are powered all the time and when you turn on a circuit, the switch applies a ground so that there is continuity for the power to flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egm89 Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 That connector looks worse than "faulty" to me -- IMHO she's be broke. Well yes to me too, any way to change it? Dive into a jy? Btw truck its a stick. is your rig stick shift or auto? that connector looks like the connector for the transmission control, if you have a stick, it is not used. The 3 pin connector looks like the TPS connector, it is important. A voltmeter is pretty simple, everything on your truck is 12 volts DC. Set the meter to the DC value nearest to 12V. Then ground the black lead and put the red lead on whatever you are trying to measure. A good place to check if your meter is working and your technique is correct; put the black lead on the battery - post and the red lead on the + post. Meter should read 12vdc. Remember that some circuits are not powered until the key is on. If you are checking for a broken wire, put the meter on the lowest resistance setting (measured in ohms), the meter has an internal battery that supplies enough voltage to force a small current thru the wire if it is good (you have continuity), and you will read an ohms value. If you are looking for a ground, the ohms (resistance value) should be less than one ohm. Most automobile circuits are powered all the time and when you turn on a circuit, the switch applies a ground so that there is continuity for the power to flow. Thanks man! As soon as I get off from work, going to check that, btw it is a stick; forgot to say that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Two ways to fix that .... It's a GM weatherpak connector, NAPA (or any parts store that carries) may have the square block style terminals. They should have a flat 4 that the terminal leads can be swapped into if not. The connector is easily disassembled to replace the connector housing. Just need the right connector tool (again NAPA or similar). Otherwise scour a JY for any auto XJ/MJ 87-90 as they will have both connectors (the manuals will only have the one side). Replacing the TPS will also solve the problem. The guides can just be pulled out of the vehicle side plug. And really as long as the terminals enter the sockets correctly it won't be an issue, but unless you ensure they do they will have a poor contact in the connector block. Edit - just noticed you had a manual ... Just tape that connector off then ... As stated earlier, only the flat 3 prong is needed. Just keep the terminal leads separated when you cap it. I usually just plug it in on mine to keep it clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egm89 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 Two ways to fix that .... It's a GM weatherpak connector, NAPA (or any parts store that carries) may have the square block style terminals. They should have a flat 4 that the terminal leads can be swapped into if not. The connector is easily disassembled to replace the connector housing. Just need the right connector tool (again NAPA or similar). Otherwise scour a JY for any auto XJ/MJ 87-90 as they will have both connectors (the manuals will only have the one side). Replacing the TPS will also solve the problem. The guides can just be pulled out of the vehicle side plug. And really as long as the terminals enter the sockets correctly it won't be an issue, but unless you ensure they do they will have a poor contact in the connector block. Edit - just noticed you had a manual ... Just tape that connector off then ... As stated earlier, only the flat 3 prong is needed. Just keep the terminal leads separated when you cap it. I usually just plug it in on mine to keep it clean. Thanks for the info on the connector! Going to buy some to change em. And yes, it a stick shift; but I'm guessing the my starting problem would be the cps, because I did pull some of the vaccum lines that go behind the head... As soon as I get home I'm going to try to test that cps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egm89 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 Well, I did the ground test now I'm getting better with the multimeter. Turns out that when I jiggle the cable loom thst goes parallel to the valve cover, I don't see much of a difference in the reading; but as soon as I start jiggling the loom near the c101 the reading on the multimeter changes. So I'm guessing bad grounds, going to check on em today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine1Texas Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 I took my c101 out and wired direct. That box has been many issues come from it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egm89 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 I took my c101 out and wired direct. That box has been many issues come from it.I have never soldered before so... I can always try right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 I think folks shouldn't just resort to eliminating the C101 first. I think you should first disassemble and clean it to see if it helps prior to soldering. I took mine apart, cleaned it up, it was full of black gunk and just cleaning alone solved my starting problem. If you've never soldered before this shouldn't be your first job. Practice on other wires etc. before tackling C101. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egm89 Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 CPS has no ground. Go to www.cruiser54.com and do Tips 1 through 5. I know you've done some, but not all. CPS output can be tested. Tip 7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Eliminating the C101 is worth doing, especially when you have odd running issues that you can't track down and you have replaced, tested, poked, and prodded everything else on the entire truck. If you are nervous about soldering you could easily buy some Deutsch or weatherpacks, a bunch of male and female pins, and a crimping tool, and make your own connectors. Would get kinda pricey doing it that way though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egm89 Posted March 25, 2016 Author Share Posted March 25, 2016 CPS has no ground. Go to www.cruiser54.com and do Tips 1 through 5. I know you've done some, but not all. CPS output can be tested. Tip 7. I think Ive found my culprit, the extra ground that I installed on the firewall is kinda loose, fixing that today or tomorrow! Thanks cruiser u the best! Eliminating the C101 is worth doing, especially when you have odd running issues that you can't track down and you have replaced, tested, poked, and prodded everything else on the entire truck. If you are nervous about soldering you could easily buy some Deutsch or weatherpacks, a bunch of male and female pins, and a crimping tool, and make your own connectors. Would get kinda pricey doing it that way though.I actually feel intimidated by soldering to be honest, never have done it before so...Yes I did check on those weatherpack connector and indeed would get kinda expensive haha, but just cheking on prices and adding them on the long, looong todo list haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 I wouldn't be intimidated by soldering, it's a straight forward process. For electronics you want to use Rosin Core solder. Get a weller soldering gun. Get some scrap wires from the junkyard, and practice a little. It's worth the money to get a wire stripper/crimping tool. Most parts stores have a set for around 15-20 bucks, and it makes clearing the insulation off the end of the wire a breeze. Watch some youtube vids and practice a bit and you will be fine. It's super easy.This kind of soldering gun would be good. Decent price too. you can also get something similar at a local hardware store. http://www.amazon.com/D550PK-120-volt-200-watt-Professional-Soldering/dp/B00002N7S1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 I wouldn't be intimidated by soldering, it's a straight forward process. For electronics you want to use Rosin Core solder. Get a weller soldering gun. Get some scrap wires from the junkyard, and practice a little. It's worth the money to get a wire stripper/crimping tool. Most parts stores have a set for around 15-20 bucks, and it makes clearing the insulation off the end of the wire a breeze. Watch some youtube vids and practice a bit and you will be fine. It's super easy. This kind of soldering gun would be good. Decent price too. you can also get something similar at a local hardware store. http://www.amazon.com/D550PK-120-volt-200-watt-Professional-Soldering/dp/B00002N7S1 I had never actually soldered anything in my life and I bought this. Very nice and made learning how to solder VERY easy. I recommend investing in a variety pack of heat shrink tubing. The one I bought was about 13$ and includes enough tubing to last me a few years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 I buy shrink tubing by the roll. Especially the smaller 4-5mm size used on 20-18awg wires commonly found in a lot of cars. I like buying in excess. I never run out lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 Knucklehead and Impulse, thanks for your support. You are both exactly right!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egm89 Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Well guys just some feedback, my problem was the cps; had some spare time this last weekend and decides to takle down that job. Being tottally honest it was kind of easy haha I though it was going to be waaay harder, it seems that my small hand were finally usefull for something haha! In other matter, I bought the sensor BWD part# CSS582 on O'reilly and its working wonders! Now my slow start is gone, as soon as I turn the key it turn on! Feels sooo good! Btw is this the oem sensor? Oh and a side by side of the 2 sensors (new would be on the left) And yes, still planning to eliminate the c101 in the near future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 I'm jealous. My Gorilla sized hands and arms make getting to the CPS a pain in the @$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 ^^What he said^^ I would consider my hands pretty average sized... But when after installing the 4.0/aw4 from a '93 into my '91 and discovering that the connector was different... After spending a couple hours dicking around trying to get the newer one off the bellhousing, I got frustrated and just cut the connectors off and matched up wire colours, hoping it would work... And it did. Thank god. I was positive I'd have to drop the trans to swap it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egm89 Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 I'm jealous. My Gorilla sized hands and arms make getting to the CPS a pain in the @$$I could actually guide the socket all the way to the nut :D making it a breeze! ^^What he said^^ I would consider my hands pretty average sized... But when after installing the 4.0/aw4 from a '93 into my '91 and discovering that the connector was different... After spending a couple hours dicking around trying to get the newer one off the bellhousing, I got frustrated and just cut the connectors off and matched up wire colours, hoping it would work... And it did. Thank god. I was positive I'd have to drop the trans to swap it... Well for me did a TON of research and videos, everyone sayd it would be a pain! Feel so good that it came out quick and nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Long 1/4" extension with a wobble tip on it. Best investment I ever made after working on old Datsuns. Made getting the CPS in/out much easier....but tape over the hole!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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