rsammel Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 I had my mechanic replace the slave cylinder in my 87 about a month ago. I noticed trouble getting into reverse about a week ago, but wrote it off as my imagination. Got in the truck to run some errands today and couldn't get it into gear. No leaks anywhere, and the reservior level hasn't dropped since I got it back from the shop. I Bled the clutch hydraulic system and pushed a ton of air before I got straight fluid. Clutch works great now. My question is - did the guy just do a $#!& job bleeding it after he finished the work or what? If so, why would it take three weeks of driving for before I had any trouble shifting? - and.. what else could cause me to get air in the lines? Like I said, I don't have any leaks, and I haven't run the reservior dry. Not sure If this is relevant, but this is the third time I've had the slave replaced, (the trucks only got 72,000 on it). Got a different mechanic to do the latest job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Internal slave? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsammel Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 Yup, internal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Internal slave system is one huge pain in the rear and they can die out fast due to extensive heat from daily driving or used off-road... The mechanic didn't do a good job bleeding the clutch.... Or even do it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 When mine went out I replaced it with an external bell housing. I used to suggest this to others but they don't like hearing the truth....so.......screw it. The internals are prone to fail. There is a quick-connect coupling inside the bell that is prone to blow apart, this is what is likely allowing air into the system. The aftermarket slaves are junk, straight out of the box. Like any other JUNK part we replace, it's hit or miss. Some other guy will post up that he replaced his 9 years ago and it's still going strong.....yeah, so what? You're the one with the problem, you're the one that has to drop the trans again.......and again. It may not be the mechanics fault, probably not his fault. I have read your post over and over and over and over......same $#!&, different day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 I only support keeping the internal slave if OEM parts are used (not everyone has a local shop that's willing to try doing the conversion). the aftermarket stuff is indeed a big crap shoot. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outlaw star Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 I use the CarQuest (LUK) brand internals on our fleet trucks and on my Mj. Only problems we ever have with failure is if in a lot of water/mud, the silty-fine sands cause wear/failure. Also be sure to bleed all that crappy installation lube (white lithium type of crap) out of it. But if you do use an internal like me, use quality parts instead of cheaping out. Even if you go external, DO NOT cheap out either. Quality components make a big difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsammel Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 You guys are awesome, thanks. I've used this forum for reference during many projects and just joined up yesterday. Tooled around a bit today, and the clutch is still good. MJ junkie, I hope you're right about my mechanic not properly bleeding the system. That's the best case scenario. CF, appreciate it. I have been wondering about a conversion to an external slave since the second one went. I've got a very classy junkyard nearby and next time, (which seems to be inevitable) I'll look into going that route. Hopefully by that time I'll have another whip and be able to shelve this girl for an extended tuneup. It is pretty funny how they @#$% all the $#!& words on this forum. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 we pride ourselves on a family friendly forum. :cheers: nothing that's talked about here has any need for vulgarity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsammel Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 True enough, and thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 I have an interesting problem. The gears shift fine but if I stop and just sort of let my foot rest on the clutch, I can feel it slowly depress and sometimes when I'm in reverse, I can't get it out of reverse. I have to either let the truck die or turn it off to take it out of reverse. I suspect a tiny leak in the slave cylinder. How much does that typically cost to replace and is that even the problem. I'm not losing any clutch fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Dan Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 If its an internal slave and you're just replacing the slave, a shop will probably charge $800 or so, after parts and labor. The actual part, itself, is like $60 or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 I have an interesting problem. The gears shift fine but if I stop and just sort of let my foot rest on the clutch, I can feel it slowly depress and sometimes when I'm in reverse, I can't get it out of reverse. I have to either let the truck die or turn it off to take it out of reverse. I suspect a tiny leak in the slave cylinder. How much does that typically cost to replace and is that even the problem. I'm not losing any clutch fluid. I suspect this is an problem with the master, not the slave. If the slave were leaking, it would leak externally, and you would lose fluid. If a seal on the master were bad, the fluid could "leak" internally, causing the symptoms you are experiencing, without losing fluid. Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 IS the fix to replace the master cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine1Texas Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 I normally replace the master, slave and hose all at once. I only use oem parts. When we had a BA10/5 we replaced internal slave every 5 years or so. We did find that it is good to replace your hose at the same time. If your fluid is dark, it is a good idea to replace the master as well. When putting you tranny back in, make sure to grease up that throw out bearing good..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 Replacing the slave will be a shop job. I can't do that myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Hi Virginia, I think you would have little to lose by replacing the master cylinder. Much easier and cheaper. If it does not fix the problem you are not out much. Good luck! Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Hi Virginia, I think you would have little to lose by replacing the master cylinder. Much easier and cheaper. If it does not fix the problem you are not out much. Good luck! Gene Kinda what I was thinking too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 bleeding the master can be a pain. be patient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Is there a good video about how to do it? I've watched a couple and see that it really takes 2 people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 I'm sure youtube has something. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Just grab a generic length of 1/4" brake line (pre flared) put on new master, bend into reservoir, fill with fluid and pump the bubbles away. Then install, saves lots of time. Cap clutch when you disconnect it to minimize aire bubbles. Then when it's all together bleed it at the fitting on the master first. Then rebleed at the slave. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 On my schedule for this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Hope it turns out well! Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 I can't find info anywhere on replacing an external slave. I orginally bout a pre-bleed system which was fine but I blew out the slave. I ordered just the slave to replace it and I can't get the old one off. I can't get the roll pin out. I tried using a nail of the same size and no dice, but the nail is stuck in the hole of the roll pin now though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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