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New parking brake fix?


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I may have found an easy way to fix the park brake ratchet issue. Here are some teaser photos. Got the work done to the ratchet, but too late to reinstall last night.

 

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Real quick before I head out.

 

The spring appears to be the biggest culprit. WAAAAAAAY too weak for the task of holding the pawl into the teeth. 

 

Perhaps that alone would be a fix.

 

You can see the difference in springs used in one of the photos.

 

I opted to do what ftpiercecracker did and eliminate the side to side play in the pedal. I did that by using some sockets and a vice to squeeze the whole shebang tighter. Took a coupla times to get it where I wanted it. 

 

I've only bench tested it but I think I'll be okay with this fix. I'll reinstall it later.

 

And BTW, the old FSM leaves out details that are critical for removing the assembly.

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When I fixed mine, I shortened and recurved the spring (essentially making the spring stronger). And some lube on the mechanism. Like many things, it gets sticky without lube.

Prior to this it would not lock at all.

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Works like a champ!!! 

 

I've been wondering if JUST a stronger spring would do the trick. 

 

Was it broke before you changed the spring?

 

Yes. Set it and it pops right off. I suspected the teeth were worn but they weren't. The spring they used tensioning the pawl from the factory isn't as strong as one in a ball point pen. 

 

There was a recall on these after numerous failures in the field. 

 

Didn't fix the issue. Same old crap going in on the recall. 

 

If there's a way to replace that spring without removing the assembly, it would be worth it. What a b*@$£.

 

As for the spring, I scrounged one out of my collection and shortened it.

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I removed my spring and replaced it while the assembly was still in place.

It was a pain contorting into the footwell, dropped the spring several times. Issue with dropping the spring was it liked to fall inside the pocket between the ratchet and base. Small mirror and a set of mini long nose needle nose to grab it.

But, sound like less hassle than removing.

Mine was the same issue, push pedal, but the pawl refused to lock at all.

Now it all works perfectly. I definitely agree though, a stronger spring would likely solve many issues. I suspect the stripped ones are from an incorrect lock due to a weak spring. So it locks at the minimum limits and strips a little each use until one day it just let's go. Similar effect as trying a 3/8" socket on those E12 bolts on the trans (go admit at least some of us have tried).

A higher tension spring would push the pawl deeper into the ratchet and reduce the effect if not end it.

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I removed my spring and replaced it while the assembly was still in place.

It was a pain contorting into the footwell, dropped the spring several times. Issue with dropping the spring was it liked to fall inside the pocket between the ratchet and base. Small mirror and a set of mini long nose needle nose to grab it.

But, sound like less hassle than removing.

Mine was the same issue, push pedal, but the pawl refused to lock at all.

Now it all works perfectly. I definitely agree though, a stronger spring would likely solve many issues. I suspect the stripped ones are from an incorrect lock due to a weak spring. So it locks at the minimum limits and strips a little each use until one day it just let's go. Similar effect as trying a 3/8" socket on those E12 bolts on the trans (go admit at least some of us have tried).

A higher tension spring would push the pawl deeper into the ratchet and reduce the effect if not end it.

The teeth on mine were perfect.

 

We need to find a commercially available spring. I've got my old one as a sample.

 

And what about stuffing a paper towel down into the area where the spring can drop while doing the repair? 

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What makes it so difficult to remove the assembly may I ask?  Does the dash have to come loose or what?

One bolt is right next to the fusebox so has little clearance, and it has a dash brace on top of the parkbrake assembly but under the bolt head. 

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I removed my spring and replaced it while the assembly was still in place.

It was a pain contorting into the footwell, dropped the spring several times. Issue with dropping the spring was it liked to fall inside the pocket between the ratchet and base. Small mirror and a set of mini long nose needle nose to grab it.

But, sound like less hassle than removing.

Mine was the same issue, push pedal, but the pawl refused to lock at all.

Now it all works perfectly. I definitely agree though, a stronger spring would likely solve many issues. I suspect the stripped ones are from an incorrect lock due to a weak spring. So it locks at the minimum limits and strips a little each use until one day it just let's go. Similar effect as trying a 3/8" socket on those E12 bolts on the trans (go admit at least some of us have tried).

A higher tension spring would push the pawl deeper into the ratchet and reduce the effect if not end it.

Once my back recovers from contorting around under the dash last Sunday, I'm gonna take a peek at what you did. Maybe I can find a replacement spring at true value that has a part number also.

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I looked for a standard spring at the local Lordco here, nothing short enough. Headed into work for 8 days, so I'll have to search the others after I get back.

 

I suspect that a Yoga Guru would survive better than we do at this. I was damn near upside down in the seat when I finally got the spring in. A tilt column adds a few more millimeters of contorting room. But, I dare say it was still easier than pulling the assembly. I shortened my stock spring by roughly 1/3 it's length.

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