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Dana 30 and 35 to dana 44 help


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 For my rear, I ended up putting a 96 explorer 8.8 with disk brakes and 4.10s under mine. I bought the axle for 200 pulled. I bought a truss, and a install kit (spring perches, ubolts, shock mounts,ect) Plus a ABS block off plate. Also Had to buy a flange adapter for the rear drive shaft u joint. installed a sparten locker I also threw all new brake components on the axle at the same time and a fancy diff cover. Other than that everything else was stock. I believe I had around $850 in the swap.

 

For my front I bought a tj front dana 30. Re geared it to 4.10s to match the rear. Put a truss with jonnie joint upper control arm mounts on it, did c gussets and boxed in lower control arm mount and spring buckets. Put a set of chromoly yukon shafts with spicer ujoints, all new seals. Installed a sparten locker, all new brake components and wheel bearings and a diff cover. its about as beef as a dana 30 can get, only thing missing is sleeves (which I didn't feel was necessary with the truss.) and selectable hubs. I think I have around $2200+ in to it.

 

All of this set up to run 35s.

 

 

After it as all said and done I wish I would have went with 9" and a 44. or one tons. Not for the fact of the strength but more because of the option to install a higher gear ratio that will do justices to the 35's and room to grow. Also I love the look of the wider axles....

 

Here is a picture......

 

 

 

 

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A TJ D30 is a curious choice as the low pinion design is measurably weaker than an XJ high pinion unit. The XJ in a TJ is not an uncommon swap.

It was free and I couldn't find a high pinion around for less than $300. Also I was impatient. Believe me now that I sunk that much money in it I regret not getting a high pinion. However they are not weaker, just as strong as a HP. There is no difference at all besides the housing and the reverse cut gears in a high pinion. The only advantage is driveshaft angle. Which I needed most at 8.5 inches of lift...

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Negative. In a front application a reverse cut ( high pinion) differential design places the force of the pinion gear on the correct side of the ring gear. Estimates are that this improves the ring/pinion strength by about 30%. As the D30 has a tiny ring gear that is a significant improvement. It is true that the tubes, C's , and shafts are the same, though.

 

Here is one of hundreds of items on the web denoting the strength difference. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/154-0708-weakest-to-strongest-axles/

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There were three factory skid plates on the MJ. One that protects the front axle and front of the engine bay, one for the t-case, and one for the fuel tank. The front and t-case skids should swap from a junkyard XJ, but the tank skid is unique to the MJ.

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I expect it's better than nothing, but all the ones I've seen in yards have been bashed in pretty good. They look like they'll keep branches and stuff out of the engine bay, but you'll probably want something with more beef for rock crawling.

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For my rear, I ended up putting a 96 explorer 8.8 with disk brakes and 4.10s under mine. I bought the axle for 200 pulled. I bought a truss, and a install kit (spring perches, ubolts, shock mounts,ect) Plus a ABS block off plate. Also Had to buy a flange adapter for the rear drive shaft u joint. installed a sparten locker I also threw all new brake components on the axle at the same time and a fancy diff cover. Other than that everything else was stock. I believe I had around $850 in the swap.

 

For my front I bought a tj front dana 30. Re geared it to 4.10s to match the rear. Put a truss with jonnie joint upper control arm mounts on it, did c gussets and boxed in lower control arm mount and spring buckets. Put a set of chromoly yukon shafts with spicer ujoints, all new seals. Installed a sparten locker, all new brake components and wheel bearings and a diff cover. its about as beef as a dana 30 can get, only thing missing is sleeves (which I didn't feel was necessary with the truss.) and selectable hubs. I think I have around $2200+ in to it.

 

All of this set up to run 35s.

 

 

After it as all said and done I wish I would have went with 9" and a 44. or one tons. Not for the fact of the strength but more because of the option to install a higher gear ratio that will do justices to the 35's and room to grow. Also I love the look of the wider axles....

 

Here is a picture......

 

 

 

 

How fast can you go with 4.10s? I'd like to go at least 70 in mine

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For my rear, I ended up putting a 96 explorer 8.8 with disk brakes and 4.10s under mine. I bought the axle for 200 pulled. I bought a truss, and a install kit (spring perches, ubolts, shock mounts,ect) Plus a ABS block off plate. Also Had to buy a flange adapter for the rear drive shaft u joint. installed a sparten locker I also threw all new brake components on the axle at the same time and a fancy diff cover. Other than that everything else was stock. I believe I had around $850 in the swap.

 

For my front I bought a tj front dana 30. Re geared it to 4.10s to match the rear. Put a truss with jonnie joint upper control arm mounts on it, did c gussets and boxed in lower control arm mount and spring buckets. Put a set of chromoly yukon shafts with spicer ujoints, all new seals. Installed a sparten locker, all new brake components and wheel bearings and a diff cover. its about as beef as a dana 30 can get, only thing missing is sleeves (which I didn't feel was necessary with the truss.) and selectable hubs. I think I have around $2200+ in to it.

 

All of this set up to run 35s.

 

 

After it as all said and done I wish I would have went with 9" and a 44. or one tons. Not for the fact of the strength but more because of the option to install a higher gear ratio that will do justices to the 35's and room to grow. Also I love the look of the wider axles....

 

Here is a picture......

 

 

 

 

How fast can you go with 4.10s? I'd like to go at least 70 in mine

 

 

 

That is something I can't tell you. I only have 32's on the truck right now and I have been driving on a wore out 4.0 for the past year or two. very weak #2 cylinder so I'm not at full power.  It currently stays on a flat highway around 65 mph. With 35's and a healthy engine, I have no idea...

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For my rear, I ended up putting a 96 explorer 8.8 with disk brakes and 4.10s under mine. I bought the axle for 200 pulled. I bought a truss, and a install kit (spring perches, ubolts, shock mounts,ect) Plus a ABS block off plate. Also Had to buy a flange adapter for the rear drive shaft u joint. installed a sparten locker I also threw all new brake components on the axle at the same time and a fancy diff cover. Other than that everything else was stock. I believe I had around $850 in the swap.

 

For my front I bought a tj front dana 30. Re geared it to 4.10s to match the rear. Put a truss with jonnie joint upper control arm mounts on it, did c gussets and boxed in lower control arm mount and spring buckets. Put a set of chromoly yukon shafts with spicer ujoints, all new seals. Installed a sparten locker, all new brake components and wheel bearings and a diff cover. its about as beef as a dana 30 can get, only thing missing is sleeves (which I didn't feel was necessary with the truss.) and selectable hubs. I think I have around $2200+ in to it.

 

All of this set up to run 35s.

 

 

After it as all said and done I wish I would have went with 9" and a 44. or one tons. Not for the fact of the strength but more because of the option to install a higher gear ratio that will do justices to the 35's and room to grow. Also I love the look of the wider axles....

 

Here is a picture......

 

 

 

 

How fast can you go with 4.10s? I'd like to go at least 70 in mine

 

That is something I can't tell you. I only have 32's on the truck right now and I have been driving on a wore out 4.0 for the past year or two. very weak #2 cylinder so I'm not at full power. It currently stays on a flat highway around 65 mph. With 35's and a healthy engine, I have no idea...

Would it be worth it to get this?

8.8

59 1/2 overall length. Good shafts, bad ring or pinion. 5 x4 1/2 bolt pattern

 

And also, would a 94 explorer have the right 8.8?

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depends on how much your paying for it. I think 95 and up is when they went with 23 spline and disk brakes......

It's 150$ for the 8.8 and it's already pulled out but it's in a few pieces. How does that sound?

 

 

 

I wouldnt. by the time you put it back together you will be out more money than another one out of a junk yard. Installing gears can't cost 300+

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How fast can you go with 4.10s? I'd like to go at least 70 in mine

 

 

My Dakota R/T has the factory 3.92 gears and little 28" tires and I can max out the speed limiter.  4.10s are not deep enough to restrict anything. :thumbsup:

 

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Gearing is only part of the equation for how fast you can actually go.  4.10's with 25" tires will have a lower top speed in a given gear than 4.10's with 35" tires (by quite a bit).  That's where good MPH calculators come in.

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Jackrabbit guy, everything you are asking has been beat to death on just about every internet forum in existence.  Spend some of your time researching this stuff, figure out a realistic budget, figure out what you want within that budget, figure out how mechanically inclined you actually are, and go to town.

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Personally I would NEVER install a Ford 8.8 not because its a Ford but because its too narrow for my liking regardless of how cheap you can get them plus with the offset pumpkin...

 

I would likely go 8.25 or larger and the front D30 is perfectly fine but if you truly want a D44 its all fab for a proper D44 in the front...

 

I do not agree with what has been said about the strength of the HP over LP and the only benefits I can agree on is if you need a better driveline angle,

the reverse cut gears are more efficient for sure but stronger is purely an opinion...

 

I am Running an 2008 SRT8 D44 rear and a 2000 WJ D30 Variloc front and although my wheeling with this truck has been minimal it is more then capable plus with the wider wheel track and an

offset rim the stability is amazing and no need for wheel spacers to correct the width as you can just use rims with the offset you need to get the correct width you want as they are not that

much wider then a stock MJ axle... Rear is completely fabricated but the front is practically bolt in...

 

Oh and for those that are interested the 05+ WK's with the 8.25 have a Factory E-locker and are full floating axles

however the downside is that they are primarily factory 3:73 gears but being an 8.25 gears are readily available...

I would have gone this way if I wasn't after the SRT8 Brembo brakes for my Truck...

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Just so every one doesn't have to click the link here is the quote:

 

In a low-pinion axle (right) the pinion drives on the stronger, drive side of the ring gear teeth when used in a rear axle application, but on the weaker, coast side when used as a front axle. The high-pinion (reverse cut) axle (left) and gearset applies pressure to the drive side of the gear teeth when used as a front axle, but to the weaker coast side when used as a rear axle.

 

From: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/131-1107-how-axle-gears-work/photo-10.html#ixzz3XPPooP80 

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