2360 Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 My Comanche died. Engine failure. 21 Mar 2015 about 530,000 kms And had a crack a tooya also. Debating if I should junk'er or fix my Comanche. Had it for 25 years so I'm a bit attached to it. I leaning towards fixing it. Put some Rizone the day before she blew, must cleaned all carbon that was holding her together. :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Don't junk it. You can find a "low mileage" (although most engines would be low mileage by your standards) engine to drop in 'er for cheaper than you think if you look around. Give it some refreshing and it'll run like new again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Clean her up, throw a new head and header on and call it good for another 500,000 kms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 I'm right there with you man. Mine blew the bottom end out of it last week. I got a cheap engine and will have her running again next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2360 Posted March 24, 2015 Author Share Posted March 24, 2015 I'm thinking tearing down and removing as much stuff I can and have a garage put a rebuilt motor in and I'll put all the pieces back on. Not sure if they'll like that idea, doesn't hurt to ask. Jan 2015 Semi Gloss Black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 You are in Canada and it does not look like a giant pile of rust. I say put a replacement engine in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 ^^^ Si. If you have had her for 22 years, there's no other answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Even a later engine. Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 You can buy a cheap engine hoist for likely less than a shop will charge you to put in a motor, even if you're doing the rest of the job yourself. Princess auto has a "Quick Lift Shop Crane" on sale until Sunday for $220. I'm in the same boat as you right now. About a year ago, mine started doing the death knock after coming down from 185km.h. Just over 498,000 km on it. It still runs and drives (drove it onto and off the dolly that brought it home) but with it turning its innards into glitter, it's sitting under a snow drift in my parents' yard. With school, I haven't been able to put much money towards the project yet. Hopefully something happens this summer. :crossfingers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 I just bought a Harbor Freight 2 ton engine crane and 2 ton load leveler for $216 shipped. Use retailmenot.com to find the 25% off coupon for one item. Then do two separate orders to apply the discount to each order. It may be cheaper to have one single shipment for our northern brothers though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2360 Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Thanks guys for the suggestions, turns out the garage option is pricey. If the Comanche survives I'm going to have do it myself. Thanks MJ Junkie for the Princess Auto link, might just head down there and get one. Hope I can fit it in the Crown vic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 If you need a truck for a short period of time, try a home improvement store. At least where I live places like Lowe's rent out trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JENSSEN Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 I'm thinking tearing down and removing as much stuff I can and have a garage put a rebuilt motor in and I'll put all the pieces back on. Not sure if they'll like that idea, doesn't hurt to ask. Jan 2015 Semi Gloss Black. I have seen this truck on Deerfoot! I can help you get it back on the road, or you can sell it to me;) Seriously though I am PMing you please get in touch with me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JENSSEN Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 I have an engine hoist, parts ect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JENSSEN Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Updates??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2360 Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Thanks Comanche Addict, Bought an engine crane from Princess Auto, so it's time to let the fun begin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Get a load leveler too. Well worth it. A few tips after swapping two engines in the same truck this week. Remove everything on the front of the engine first. Rad, alt, ac compressor, power steering pump, everything that will unbolt. Revome the front driveshaft if 4wd. Next remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold and where the cat connects. Place a floor jack under the trans crossmember and jack it up until a little of the truck's weight is pushing down. Remove the bolts into the frame rail and lower the trans down all the way. Remove the CPS and top E14 bolts. Break the two big bolts loose but do not remove. Fish the head pipe out also. Jack it back into place and use the nuts only to hold it up. Remove starter, dust cover, and flexplate bolts if auto. Hold the trans to the truck not the ground. I used a 2x4 and wood blocks across the lower control arms. I have drop brackets though. Remove the last two bell housing bolts. Hook up the hoist and lift engine so the motor mount bolts can be removed. Now yank it out. Don't forget the ground strap and O2 sensor wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Don't forget the ground strap and O2 sensor wiring. I've forgotten about that blasted ground strap more than once, LOL. And forgot to disco a CPS once also....good tips Shelby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2360 Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 Thanks for the tips, that's going to help. Got the leveler, transmission adapter for the jack and bought some chain. Went down to pick n pull today, spied 1990 Cherokee with 222,000 kms. The front right side was smashed up so I'm thinking the engine was working right up to impact. The weather taking a turn for snow or rain. Hopefully the beast will around the yard for another week. Starting to think this might a two man job getting the engine out of Pick n Pull and getting it home, as big as my Crown Vic trunk is, don't think it'll fit in the trunk. Have to remember to take pictures. More to follow, over! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 You may be surprised how much engine you can fit in your Crown Vic's Trunk.This is a picture of an Isuzu 2.6L 4cyl in mine, and half a transmission case, and a box of misc parts. I also had plenty more room lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 If I could fit a 2.5L in the back of a Ford Escort and drive it 600 miles, you can get a 4.0 in the trunk of a Crown Vic, LOL :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JENSSEN Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I have a 98 4.0L on the floor,.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2360 Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 Getting things set up, haven't got an engine yet. Some tools of the trade to get at those E-12 bolts. Dropped the transmission a bit to get at the two E-12's tucked away. Next is unbolting the transmission, not sure how this is going to work out. I'm hoping I can undo the bolts and slide the engine forward while the transmissions stay fixed on the cross member and jack. I've got about 5 ins till the front of the engine hits the jeep front frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 It'll come out if you take the radiator and header panel off. You pretty much have to take them off to get the engine out. No sense in risking punching a hole in the radiator or cracking the header panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 Oh and pull the engine from the front. Cherry Pickers don't like to move sideways with a 400 pound engine 4 feet in the air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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