Jeep Driver Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 What is the brass colored fitting with the external threads? http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differentials/Dana-30-44-Spicer-Replacement-Ball-Joint.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=101151&t_pn=D/S706944X&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwuI-oBRCEi87g0K3O8OoBEiQAb25WAY7f2dPgSRm67kXDN-wflBtNuxS6XVcGrAtZD2SlisYaAgyF8P8HAQ And what is your recommendation for ball joints......keeping cost in mind? Well........I tried to post the pic......no can do, please see link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Looks to be an insert that would be threaded in to allow this unit to be used on one with a larger hole...... :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Some early D30's had a replaceable ballpoint seat ... That is what that is. IIRC it would go in the bottom hole. D44's had a similar item for the upper hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 I got a good deal on a set of NOS Mopar ball joints. Guess what? They came in a Mopar box but were actually Dana Spicer units. So the D/S ball joints are definitely my recommendation for purchasing. Image Not Found Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timeless Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 The brass threaded bit does not get used on our D30's. Get Spicers. Nothing else. Buy from amazon or drivetrain america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 The brass threaded bit does not get used on our D30's. Get Spicers. Nothing else. Buy from amazon or drivetrain america. Drivetrain America have good prices ........BUT!.......they want $22 shipping for ONE SIDE- UPS ground. I have no idea why these idiots do this crap....? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-706944x Before I order, this looks correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-706944x Before I order, this looks correct? Yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 http://m.ebay.com/itm/371022809668?nav=SEARCH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Thank you, guys. Ordered, Summit, $103 shipped, I thought that was pretty good deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 The brass threaded bit does not get used on our D30's. Get Spicers. Nothing else. Buy from amazon or drivetrain america. My '86 d30 begs to differ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 The brass threaded bit does not get used on our D30's. Yes it does. You may choose not to replace them, but I know for a fact that the inserts are there in an '89 Cherokee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobolink Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Well now, this thread brings to mind a question. I can't imagine that I would not notice a problem, either during installation, or in driving the truck for months.......about six months ago, I did a major overhaul of my entire front end ('90 4WD, 255K miles), including new bearings/hubs, new steering knuckles (Mopar), new ball joints (Moog....they did not come with the inserts mentioned in this thread), new stablizer bar bushings, new shocks, steering stablizer, new track bar, TRE's brake rotors and pads.......just replaced EVERYthing. I had replaced the upper and lower control arm bushings a few monthe earlier. It seems to me that the ring that is the sublect of this thread, that MOPAR lists as part #83500203, would be needed when replacing the steering knuckle and the ball joints. As I said, the ring was not included with the Moog joints, so of course, I never put them in. Yet I cannot imagine that I wouldn't notice a problem with the installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 They are not a required replacement, and were phased out sometime around the time the knuckles changed. My 88 has them. Just because you bought a kit that doesn't include them does not mean they aren't used. They are there on some axles, they SHOULD be replaced with the ball joints. It's quite unlikely they ever did though. That is what the part is for, whether you choose to believe so or not. A quick read of an early service manual will show you they are in fact part of the factory assembly. As stated previously though, hey were eventually phased out, when, I can't confirm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Well, now -- this gets interesting. For 1986 thru 1993 the factory parts manual shows the split ring at the top of the steering knuckle, and they show a metric boatload of different knuckles -- left and right, with different part numbers for with or w/o ABS. The split ring is part number 8350 0203. The FPM also shows a complete ball joint kit as a single part number, and the view of that shows the split ring with the upper ball joint. The 1994-1996 FPM shows the same split ring and the same part number, but now it's on the bottom of the knuckle. And they show only ONE part number for the knuckle on each side -- not different depending on whether or not you have ABS.The ball joint kit is still available, and the view of that also shows the split ring with the lower ball joint. For 1997-99, the part number for the split ring remains the same, it's moved back to the top of the knuckle, and the name has changed from "split ring" to "Ring,ball joint." The part numbers for the knuckles are the same as for '94-'96. For the 2000 XJ, the ball joint kit is still the same, the split ring still has the same part number and is still shown with the upper ball joint, but the knuckles have new part numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Yep, I saw all that Eagle and could make no sense of it. A fix for a wallowed out hole? But why brass? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 It's most likely cadmium plated steel, just looks brass colored. My old 76 Ford D44 had the same thing in the upper ball joint hole, there was a depth measurement to achieve before installing the knuckle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 How much does a steering knuckle cost? I think the inserts are brass for two reasons: First, they are sacrificial; they're made to be softer than the ball joint or the knuckle so they are the part that gets wallowed out first, rather than damaging the knuckle itself. Second, with brass there's less chance of the ball joint stud getting frozen into the tapered hole in the insert. Which, of course, leads to the question: Why didn't they use the insert on BOTH ball joints? I dunno. I wasn't there and they didn't consult me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 It's brass, I have one in my hand. And it's non-magnetic.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stacks Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 That is what I replaced to correct the camber issue on my MJ. It was far cheaper than an offset ball joint, $25 vs $75. The one I got was steel not brass though and the one I removed was steel. Takes a semi special socket to remove and lots of horse power in my case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobolink Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Yeah, the knuckles I show in the old parts list that I have has the split ring at the top joint for the Comanche, and the knuckle and the brake caliper mounting bracket as separate parts. The knuckles that I purchased as replacements for mine were part numbers 52067576 and 52067577, and were identical the original knuckles that I replaced. They are a single unit with the knuckle and caliper mounting area on the same casting (instead of being separate parts). It appears then, that they made the change sometime in 1990. My truck was built in June 1990. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Don't know why I dreaded this job......easy as pie. :) And what a difference! Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillithium Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 It CAN be easy as pie, if you have the right tools. I bought the OTC balljoint press for this. It made my life so much easier. Once I got to the balljoints, I spent maybe 20 minutes per side pressing the old ones out and new ones in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickmiata Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Don't know why I dreaded this job......easy as pie. :) And what a difference! Image Not Found Is your garage carpeted? If so that is awesome/terrible. I usually have a ratty old piece of carpet or welcome mat to roll out and sit on especially when its cold out. I do go through them pretty quickly once I start working on with fluids though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Hunter Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 It's used primarily on d44 axles to set balljoint preload, the amount of force required to turn the steering knuckle. You can also get them with an offset to adjust for camber and caster. Not always the proper method but wth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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