Bobolink

Yep. That's why I'm here. I know you guys appreciate the truck a lot more thn the average Joe. It's drivable, has passed TX state safety inspection, and I can deliver it to anywhere. Well, just about anywhere.... I'm just not in any shape and haven't the skills to do any of the work myself. My brother and I were going to try and tackle it someday, or find someone who could do it for him, but with him now gone, that won't be happening. Would love to find it a good home.

Fully agree.

Hope so. I"d love to have someone buy it who cared to put some love into it.

Just asked my sister-in-law, and I'm going to ask $1000. I think it's worth that in parts alone.

Here are some pictures taken a week after the hurricane. Anybody wanting to buy this truck and tackle this job, I need to sell it for my brother's widow. Moderators, move this thread if you deem it appropriate. Thanks.

Originally Posted in "Registry"June 18, 2010 as "Harper" VIN: 1J7GJ36L3LL256423 '90 Comanche Pioneer, 4x4, 4.0L, AW4, NP231, D30/D44, Metric Ton, long bed. Built 6/90, current mileage approx 235K Located in coastal bend area, Texas I apparently cannot post in classifieds yet.......... Ordered and purchased from dealer in Phoenix, AZ in June of 1990 (lived at the time in Albuquerque, NM) so has high altitude emissions package. Soon after purchase, stripped interior, including headliner, removed door panels, and installed sound deadening material throughout and sound/heat shield to floor. Exterior color Desert Sand Metallic, interior light tan (don't remember color's name), full instrument cluster, cruise, interval wipers, vinyl buckets, full console, carpet, floor shift lever, A/C (still works like new, never opened up), operating vent windows, rear slider window, on third rear bumper (Fey) due to being rear-ended twice. Also has Gem shell on bed. Early on, replaced radiator with custom made three row HD radiator, added tranny oil cooler & temp gauge, and remoted the engine oil filter (so now has 7 qt capacity). All lubes (engine, xmsn, diffs, grease) have been Amsoil full synthetic since break-in. Recently modified and installed 5000# Reese receiver hitch. Have also just removed "Pioneer" stripes, etc. in anticipation of paint one of these days (still orig. paint). Just ordered and will install aluminum surge tank in place of plastic one that is only six months old and already showing signs of fatigue. Truck still runs like new, never had a serious issue. BUT ....... Here's the update. I haven't been on the forum for a long time, since I no longer own this Comanche. All the above desciption was submitted under the name Harper in 2010. I since sold truck to younger brother in Dec 2015. Truck cab severely damaged in 2017 by fallen tree in Hurricane Harvey. Truck has been garaged ever since. Passenger side damage, driver's side relatively untouched. Driver's door, windows, etc, untouched and working prefectly. Passenger roof caved in, door unusable and window gone. Also slight damage to camper shell on passenger side. Cab rear window intact. Surprisingly still passed TX safety inspection, since windshield is only slightly damaged. Mechanically in very good shape. Brother and I planned to fix it someday, but will now attempt to sell as is to some afficionado. Brother died 27 Mar, 2020, and I'm attempting to sell to someone who appreciates this old classic, as beat-up as it now is. Doing this on behalf of his widow. I will be going back to location soon to help with many other things, and will take pictures to post. Originally owned and forever pampered by Mike (formerly Harper, now Bobolink)

Cruiser, I found no significant differences in ohm readings between the old and new ICMs. At first I thought i was seeing big differences, but as I checked a second and third time, the ohms changed on both units. I don't know if there are capacitors or what that vary the readings, but they did finally settle down on both units, and were very close to the same reading between all combinations of pins. And as I said in the other thread, the new coil fixed the idle problem. Both the ICM and coil were original, 26 years old.

Well, the ol' truck is runnin' good as new again. Idles good, runs good. Seems it was the coil ... a new one fixed it. Must've been breaking down. One bonus out of this ordeal. I replaced the O2 sensor several weeks ago, and the mileage has improved condierably as a result. Gone form 18.5 MPG avg, to over 20 MPG. I also found that it seems to idle and run a bit smoother with the TPS set for the transmission, rather than the engine. When I set the correct voltage (4.15) on the square four pin connector, the voltage reads considerably lower on the flat three pin connector than it would as set for the engine. It reads .65 volts, instead of the .83 volts that would be the setting for the engine. But as I said, it seems to like that setting better.

MAP sensor, plugged in and back probed, 4.4V engine off, key on ... 1.72V hot idle. Both temp sensors, as I said only before start with engine cold, ambient temp @ 78° 3000Ω. Still gotta check the ohms at various hotter temps. Don't know what other values to give ya, other than what I've said. I'm taking the correct values for reference right out of the 1990 FSM that I bought new along with the truck (the book's as well used as the truck, believe me :thumbsup:) By the way, before you ask, I did pull the throttle body to closely check the throttle plate, in case brother TIm messed with it (he's kinda like Uncle Bob, don'tcha know). It's closed. I got those readings from both ICMs also, that I'll post in the other thread. Not much to tell there, either.

I have a situation that it seems just recently started. The 90 Renix 4.0 will not idle. I sold this truck to my brother in mid December, and the problem started after he bought it, and because I’m feeling bad about it, I have it back to try and figure out what’s wrong. I knew of no problems at all before I sold it, and I never had any real problem with it for the 25 years that I had it since new. I have done everything that I can think of. The grounds and connectors are all clean and sound, all cruiser’s tips are accomplished long ago and just rechecked. I have a new NTK O2 sensor, and the voltage checks on that, oscillating between 1-4V, new MAP sensor, and its voltages are all to spec. The TPS has 4.99V to it and is adjusted for the engine (rather than the tranny) at .849V. Distributor is reman, maybe 4-5 years ago, and it's been indexed. Vacuum readings are normal (until it decides to die). IAC is new. Temp sensor readings are to spec (but only checked when cold). It has a new Bosch fuel pump, and fuel pressure shows 31PSI with vacuum, 39 without. A new ICM. I replaced all the relays. And the EGR is removed, and blocked off, so that’s not a factor. Plugs look good, and they, along with plug wires were new a couple years ago. Distributor cap and rotor probably a couple years old, too. The injectors are the four hole 746s and have been there for a few years. Throttle body is clean as a whistle, and I’ve done the Seafoam treatment, dribbling it through the throttle body at fast idle. Vacuum lines are checked and good. It seems that the truck idles fine when cold at around 900 RPM, in open loop, but starts to have trouble as it warms to operating temp, and the idle RPMs start to settle down to 750. Then once at operating temp it usually does fine, too, with hot idle at around 600-650. Once the temp gauge starts to move up, I can expect the idle to start getting a little rough, and might stumble and recover a time or two, or simply quit without a stumble. And although it usually does fine when hot, it has died once or twice at operating temp. Regardless of temp, it always restarts without a problem. If I am driving to town from my place (a 20 mile trip) I have no problems, because I have no occasion to idle till I get to town. That may be why my brother's the one who started having problems. He lives two miles from his work, and has several occasions to have to stop. It seems to me to be more apt to die in neutral, than under the slight load of having the A/T in "Drive". Truck runs good, gets about 18 MPG or so, exhaust smells slightly rich (when compared with modern engines), but not overly so, and plugs readings don’t show any signs of too rich a mixture. Compression is good for 265K miles, 135 to 142 on all 6 cylinders. I haven’t yet checked the resistance values on the temp sensors when hot (only checked ‘em cold), so guess I should do that. What else is there?

Did you take any ohm readings on the old one versus the new one by chance? No, but I can.....give me a day or two. Not that hard to pull and check, and I still have the old one to compare. Not my truck, anymore, by the way. I sold it ... to my brother, of all people. Somebody kick me next time I think about selling to a relative. But I don't mind so much....had it for so many years, just needed something bigger and a little easier on these old bones. Got a Tundra. But little brother knows how well I cared for it, and knows that I know how to work on it. Nobody else has ever been under the hood. He'd had it for about six weeks, but I went down to pick it up and drive it back home, after he said it was giving him some trouble. He lives about 250 miles away. He'll be up to pick it up in a couple weeks.

Yeah, I forgot about those dang washers....I had to do some grinding, too, just to make them the proper thickness on each side. It was usually not ground out deep enough on the thinner portion that clamps the thicker intake manifold, as I recall.

You've ordered them already, but in case you haven't installed them yet, here's a couple pointers (mine on a '90 Renix). I found that I burned through the gasket, with or without the hi-temp copper sealant. Properly torqued and retorqued, still would burn through within a year. Pacesetter folks claimed that a regular manifold gasket from, say, Felpro, would not work. But I finally got fed up with Pacesetter's gaskets (after three tries) and switched to a regular Felpro manifold gasket, and haven't had another problem since (been about four years now). Also be sure to tighten the clamps REALLY good. Those slip joints will do just that ... SLIP! Bolted flanges would've been nice......

Just the ICM. Coil checked out with the ohmmeter, not an absolutely conclusive test, but appeared good. Had the ICM replacement not solved the prob, I would've gone on with replacing the coil, too.

I usually drive 85 or so most of the 670 miles between my house and the kids' in Albuquerque. West TX speed limits on the I10 are 80. I'm sure the GemTop shell (steel) helps to keep the rear end down, and yes, I've checked the calibration with the mile markers on the interstate...mile in 42 seconds. Doing around 2800 RPM and that speed with stock tires.

Still waiting for a new hard drive so I can get my computer up and running, but the Jeep is good. New ICM and all is well.

Cheesh.....I wish that the Renix ignition was my only problem......dang computer locked up and required a full system recovery to fix....lost all my programs, drivers, emails, everything that didn't come new with the computer..... workin' on the Jeep is a picnic compared to fixin' this! Thanks Cruiser...not that I've got my laptop working again, I'll order me an ICM.

CPS output 4.5-4.7 VAC. Getting fuel, the injectors are working (so CPS is signaling ECU to fire injectors okay). Yet no spark. Coil impedance is 22.2 ohms across primaries, 4.96K ohms between positive primary to secondary. So coil seems okay. Leaves the dizzy (cam position sensor) or the ICM. Dizzy is indexed. Dizzy was replaced with reman 6-7 years ago. ICM is original Bendix. This was a gradual failure....an intermittent problem with starting, and an occasional incident of stalling (sometimes with an easy restart, sometimes a bit more difficult, but always restarted). These events happened more often when the engine was still cold, with the frequency of occurrence gradually increasing. Then finally it has reached the point where it will not start and there is now no spark at all. With no way that I know of to test either the components on the dizzy or to test the ICM, what would be the opinion of the forum as to which one of these two would the likely culprit? Or is there another component that I have overlooked that might be at fault? My inclination is to replace both. Oh, yes ...... all of Cruiser's pointers have been done at some point over the past few years.

Never leaked in my '90 Pioneer, and they were an option.

Fourth letter on my '90 is a G, and it's the GVWR, not the engine. 8th letter is engine. E for 2.5, L for 4.0, T for 4.2, and 7 for 5.9. So apparently the different years have different code sequences (which figures if his 10th letter G would indicate 1986 model year. My 10th is an L indicating 1990 and they would skip the I in the letter sequence. And if my logic is correct, then your 10th character, mvusse, would be H for '87).

My '90 went out once. When I opened it up, I found a burned out lightbulb. Seems that it's backlit by an ordinary dashlight bulb.

You're absolutely right....most MJs are not with their original owners, and have in fact been through several owners. So there's no way to know for sure now well an individual truck has been maintained through the years. I ordered mine with the metric ton package just so I could tow with it, and immediately added a xmsn cooler and temp gauge. But I never towed much until I bought my boat in '09. And as far as being the "holy grail" of MJs, well, I wouldn't trade it for the world. Some guy was looking it over in a Lowe's parking lot a couple years ago and when I walked up, he said he wanted to buy it. I refused his $4000 offer and as he continued to up his offer, I continued to refuse, telling him I had no intention of selling it. He made a final offer of $7000. I think he knew what he was looking at. Honestly, it's worth a lot more than that to me. I still have my truck.

I don't disagree with you in principle, but my semi-monthly trip to the boat ramp is a 500 mile round-trip on an interstate hwy. Boat/trailer weighs 4500# and my '90 pulls it easily...60 mph, 3rd gear to save wear on the AW4 (in OD it will constantly shift to and from 3rd, and that's what causes excess wear and tear). Been doing that for the past six years and 80K miles. Truck has 262K on the odometer now, and yes, I do have some mods and have used premium fluids since it was new, and that helps a lot. I expect it'll continue to pull the boat with it until I'm too old to go. I borrowed a friend's Ford a few years back to tow the boat and was appalled at the fuel mileage.... around 7 mpg as compared to the 11 that I get. I suppose I'd buy a Tundra to tow it if I had the funds, but I'm not concerned about the Jeep's abilities.

According to my Owners Manual, 1990 metric ton.....max vehicle weight, 5500 lbs. Max combined vehicle weight (truck & trailer) 9264 lbs. Max trailer weight, 5000 lbs. Max tongue weight without sway control and equalizer hitch, 350 lbs (750 lbs WITH those options). No more than 3400 lbs total on rear axle (D44). BTW, on the Cat scale, my truck, with me in it, full tank of gas and the camper shell, which I always have on it, weighs 4300 lbs.

It's fine. The fan switch, unlike an oil pressure switch, doesn't operate by grounding a gauge or light, but closes the positive side of the circuit to the fan, so there is no path to ground through the threads on the switch.