Bobolink

Here's his new website http://www.smsautofabrics.com/products/headliners.php You might as well submit your request for your truck and see what response you get. edit ...... Actually, I'm not sure it's the same guy, since it's in OR, instead of GA.

I have Bilsteins F&R on my '90 heavy ton, and they are pretty stiff, but I like 'em that way. I think you should be happy with the Monroes, and should notice quite a difference if you're really riding on the original shocks.

I didnt like any of the factory options. Mine's remoted out of the engine bay. Doesn't dump oil on anything. Increased capactiy to 7 qts. with a bigger filter (Wix 51515 equiv).

Yep.... found the rattle. I have a Pacesetter header on the truck. There's a short piece, about 18" maybe that connects to the cross pipe then to the cat at the mount by the tranny. The connection between that short pipe and the cross pipe is a slip joint, held with a pipe clamp. Either the clamp loosened up, or I never got it quite tight enough. But that was my rattle. The cross pipe could move inside the other pipe and knocking on it with my hand would produce the rattle. I went ahead and checked the bolts on the flex plate again (I do this about once a year anyway) and theyr'e tight...no signs of cracks anywhere. Guess I'm good for another year. Thanks for your ideas.

Gonna revisit this rattle.....with a little more info. It's not linkage, moving the lever, applying pressure, etc, has no effect. But chew on this a bit. When I pulled up to my gate a few minutes ago, it was rattling in neutral/park. I opened the gate, got back in and moved forward and got out and closed the gate. It's rattling still, put it in gear (auto) and the rattle stops, back in neutral, rattle starts. I figure, AHA! it's the flexplate. So I drive the 1/8th mile or so to my garage, and come to a stop, still in gear, and it's rattling in gear now. Put it in park or neutral and the rattle stops, put in gear again, rattle starts. Just the opposite of what it was doing at the gate. Now I'm not so sure. actually, it sounds like it's too far back to be the flexplate.Guess I need to get under it and see if I can isolate it better with a rod to the ear or something. I've considered it might be the cat, too, I don't know what a noisy cat sounds like, but this is a definite metallic, light clanging kind of rattle.

I intend to do not only the '97 seals, but the doors, too. Actually, the majority of my wind noise is above and behind my head, caused by the turbulence in the gap between the cab and the shell on my bed. It creates a real roar. I just got back home to TX. Just went to ABQ to see the kids & grandkids for a couple days...take 'em some fresh peaches I just picked from my orchard. Came back at around 80 most of the way. gets better mileage than I expected at those speeds. Just under 19 MPG. A little under 3000 RPM, outside air temp 90, eng temp steady at 195, xmsn temp 160, oil press about 45. Pushed it to 90 a time or two on I-10 (speed limit 80). 90 is about all she'll do on the level.

A little sound dampening around the doors/roof, Goes a long way towards getting rid of the road/wind noise on the highway. Done all that....many moons ago.

Agree it sounds like the single wire insulation is damaged. Any grounding of the wire will peg the gauge to the high side.

In the past two years or so, I've completely rebuilt the f&r suspension on my '90 4.0 Renix, plus new brakes, and front bearing hubs and steering knuckles. Engine and auto tranny have 270K miles on 'em. Now I normally run around at home at 60 mph on the hiways, being in no particular hurry to get to town and back, but when I drive a long trip, I'll not waste any time gettin' to where I wanta go. I don't usually drive the ol' Comanche on these trips anymore, unless it's to the gulf coast, hauling my boat, which still is done at 60 mph or so in 3rd. But I'm sitting in Albuquerque right now....drove here yesterday.....675 mikes in 9 hrs 45 min. doing 75-80 all the way. I am really pleased with this little truck that I've owned since new. It just purred along (well considering the wind noise at that speed, make that roared along) as nice as you please. Smooth as silk.... averaged 18.7 MPG. It doesn't quite have the oomph to maintain that speed up the hills on I-40 around Clines Corners, elev 7000+' but heck, the air up there's a bit thin for even my old lungs. Wonderful little truck!!

CHeesh!! I've never cared much for Chrysler, but I bought a Jeep only a few years after Chrysler took them over. I can guarantee you that Ford did NOT make those relays. When you toss them have a look and they probably say "Made in China" .... the very same thing your new ones will say, regardless of "brand." But hell, if it makes you feel better .......

Seems like a little sandpaper would be cheaper if that's all that's wrong with 'em.

Don't sweat, youngster. Nobody's dissing you. You're in the category of "Can spell Comanche" until you make a certain number of posts, then you go up a notch, and so on. Every one of us have been there. All forums are like that. All it indicates is your participation in the forum, and is done by the computer program. And as for the relays, all three relays are exactly the same, are interchangeable, are easily found automotive relays, made by anybody, used by everybody. In additon, the relays last forever, so why are you so obsessed by them? I've had my MJ for over 25 years and never had to mess with those relays, except to unplug and clean the terminals.

Bobolink, you are showing you age with the previous reference. "Everybody was Kung Fu fighting. Those kicks were fast as lightning." Oh man.....I'm a lot older than that! :yes:

Ebonics?!? I beg your pardon. That wasn't ebonics! That was wutangics!!

Thank you Rockfrog. The more i thought about it, the more I figured it was linkage. I'll get under and have a closer look. That Boostwerks kit looks like a winner.

Well, I don't use 4wd very often, usually just to pull my boat up the launch ramp. However, last Sunday, I helped with a hayride, pulling a 16' flatbed trailer (with 20 or so people sitting on hay bales) slowly down a trail to a creek, along the creekbed for a ways, and back to the starting point. Had to shift into 4wd a couple times to ensure that I could pull the trailer through some mud holes, so the xfer case got more than its usual workout. There were no problems whatsoever that presented themselves at the time. Now, however, I've been noticing a rattle underneath the floorboard while idling in neutral......sounds like something loose. When I got down and inspected underneath, it appears to be definitely coming from the xfer case area, and seems to be getting a llittle louder each day. So....does it sound like my chain is stretched, and needing replacement? Would the chain rattle with the truck sitting at idle? I haven't checked the linkage yet, to see if it is loose. If it is the chain, is it going to cause any problems as long as I remain in 2wd until I get it fixed? And lastly, how big a deal is the r&r? I do all my own work.

The air bag is an add-on from AirLift Corp. Should be one on each side. You'll have to follow the plastic lines, if there are any left, to see where the schrader valve is to inflate them. There might have been a pump mounted that auto-inflated them, but I doubt the PO went to that expense. Oops, I-rocket89 beat me to it.............but actually, they do last, if properly cared for. They have to stay inflated to at least 5psi all the time so the insides don't rub through. I have a pair on mine that I use to level the truck when pulling my boat.

Jip Dliva not mad, glasshoppa. He just wish peepoh make betta use of such feacha. And I aglee! Lead moah! Study hodda! An' dump Flam fairtuh. Unnustan?

Yep, you are.....for one thing, he doesn''t have A/C. The other two are the B+ relay, aka power latch relay, which sets the throttle after engine shutdown in preparation for the next start, the other is the O2 sensor heater relay.

Boy howdy, 1.4 million is beaucoup miles.......

It's an assembly. You screw the dealy-bob on the right into the block, and then attach that thing-a-ma-jig on the left to it. Oh yeah, I forgot......it's been awhile since I replaced mine.

I used to have a pair on my longbed.... Monroe Max-Air MA820. I switched to AirLift airbags. The shocks worked for lift, but I thought the damping was a bit weak. So I switched to Bilsteins with the airbags.

I hope you ordered the one on the left. That's the right one.....or should I say, that's the correct one.

When my compressor went belly-up 5-6 years ago (seals were shot and refrigerant was gone), I bought the equipment to do the whole project myself. I stuck with R-12, because I, like you, had purchased a 15 lb. can of R-12 back when one still could. I replaced the compressor, receiver/dryer, expansion valve, and all the hoses. If I recall correctly, I also replaced the condenser, though I don't remember why (it shouldn't be necessary). I had a flush canister to flush the evaporator core (everything else was new), and blew it out with an air gun, then put it on a vacuum pump for 30 minutes to ensure that the system was completely dry, and filled 'er up with R-12. The vacuum pump and R-12 canister hooked to the system through a manifold with gauges. Haven't had to touch it since. If you still have the original 24 year-old A/C hoses on there, I would recommend replacing them, along with the filter/drier and expansion valve. I would guess that I still have about half the canister of R-12 left if I ever need it.

Yeah, the knuckles I show in the old parts list that I have has the split ring at the top joint for the Comanche, and the knuckle and the brake caliper mounting bracket as separate parts. The knuckles that I purchased as replacements for mine were part numbers 52067576 and 52067577, and were identical the original knuckles that I replaced. They are a single unit with the knuckle and caliper mounting area on the same casting (instead of being separate parts). It appears then, that they made the change sometime in 1990. My truck was built in June 1990.