Paul Bruchal Posted January 8, 2015 Posted January 8, 2015 1990 MJ Eliminator 4x4 w/ 95k miles on it. While I'm waiting to get my MJ shipped from NY, I was trying to remember what else I have to replace/fix in it, Then I remembered how hard it was to go from 2HI to 4HI to 4LO. I had to use both hands and push off the floor with my foot to pull back into 4x4. Does anyone know whats up with that? If I can, I'd like to fix it instead of replace. I have no problem buying a new TC or a JY TC if I have to
Dillithium Posted January 8, 2015 Posted January 8, 2015 Is it hard to shift into 4hi or just 4lo? You have to be slowly rolling to get into 4lo.
Paul Bruchal Posted January 8, 2015 Author Posted January 8, 2015 Both. I'm at a complete stop, not in gear.
gogmorgo Posted January 9, 2015 Posted January 9, 2015 My tcase was always tougher to shift when I was completely stopped. When you're not moving, you're basically just smashing the gears into each other until one of them turns out of the way to engage properly. The owners manual recommends shifting between 2wd and 4hi at "any legal speed", and in any gear... just take your foot off the throttle. When switching between gear ranges (4hi, neutral, and 4lo) it recommends something like 2-3 mph as maximum speed, also disconnecting the transmission from the engine (either by clutch or neutral in a manual, or park or neutral in an automatic).
nitroxsteve Posted January 9, 2015 Posted January 9, 2015 My tcase was always tougher to shift when I was completely stopped. When you're not moving, you're basically just smashing the gears into each other until one of them turns out of the way to engage properly. The owners manual recommends shifting between 2wd and 4hi at "any legal speed", and in any gear... just take your foot off the throttle. When switching between gear ranges (4hi, neutral, and 4lo) it recommends something like 2-3 mph as maximum speed, also disconnecting the transmission from the engine (either by clutch or neutral in a manual, or park or neutral in an automatic). x2
Dadinator Posted January 9, 2015 Posted January 9, 2015 Check the linkage to see if it needs any adjustment. Check the fluid level in the case. Change fluid if necessary. Always do the free and cheap stuff first.
nitroxsteve Posted January 9, 2015 Posted January 9, 2015 Check the linkage to see if it needs any adjustment. Check the fluid level in the case. Change fluid if necessary. Always do the free and cheap stuff first. and the most free and cheep is to try shifting it while moving.
Strokermjcomanche Posted January 9, 2015 Posted January 9, 2015 Sounds to me like the t-case shifter may be tough to move because of rust . One of Mjs was Hard to move the lever until I replaced the lever with a rust free one out of a Tj. Then it was easy as ever to shift . You might get away with shooting some PBblaster on all the shifter linkage points and the shifter itself . I just read it's coming from NY so I can almost be certain the shifter is rusted .
cruiser54 Posted January 9, 2015 Posted January 9, 2015 After checking the level and lubing the linkage, do this: Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine. "To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF. 4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L". TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON. Revised 11/20/2014
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