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Rear Disc Brake Conversion D44


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I have never messed with brakes other then changing pads and rotors and shoes.

 

I am planning to replace the 8.25 in my project with a MJ d44. I have been driving myself crazy searching on here, naxja, pirate for a good write up for folks like me that don't have a clue what they are messing with pertaining to replacing rear drums with discs.

 

Can anyone point out a thread (Ben) or build where someone detailed their install with all NEW parts? I'd rather not to dig around a junkyard for a day to pull parts off a ZJ or another factory equipped vehicle.

 

There's always this: http://www.tsmmfg.com/2562-44.html

 

But ooffda, that's a lot of cash. I have seen where folks have bought the TSM brackets and where able to source their own rotors and calipers. Like Monte Carlo stuff or caddy stuff from the 80s. But I was not successful in finding a thread that states what works!

 

I have a WJ master/booster installed with the stock XJ prop valve which I haven't messed with yet either.

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http://www.jeep4x4center.com/backing-plate-assembly-kit-for-dana-35-with-disc-brakes-4762128-29k.html

There is a link for a new stock backing plate assembly, you will also need a different axle retainer for disc brakes. Stu's-offroad has a good write up with the retainer part number. If you want to save a few hundred bucks you would be better off going to a pick and pull and grabbing the backing plate and caliper assembly yourself. The swap is pretty easy. ZJ parking brake cables will do the trick for your e-brake.

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You won't find a thread on GM swap because the lug pattern for GM is 4.75. Ford or Chrysler uses 2.5 spacing to backplate and 4.5 on the lug pattern.

 

 

There are kits in the $500-600 range complete for D44-D35 and the Ford 9"

 

 

8.25 rear disc it is simple bolt-on proposition, don't know why you want the cost and aggravation of the D44 swap?

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... Can anyone point out a thread (Ben) or build where someone detailed their install with all NEW parts?...

 

Sorry I left you hangin' all day!  :D

 

Here's a thread I keep coming back to when it comes to DISKS ON A 44. Not much for new parts, but the bearing retainers is talked about with dealer part numbers.

 

The factory part number is 1-05083678AA. Two are required. Cost should be less than 6.00 for both.

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Just jumped in on this thread. I'll never understand why when someone ask a specific question, as in this case "Rear Disc Brake Conversion D44", then everyone jumps in and interject non-relevant stuff like the D44 isn't worth it, the 8.25 is better, it's hard to do on a D44, etc. etc.

 

Who cares about someone's opinion that an D44 is inferior (I don't), or it's harder to do (it's not), or an 8.25 is better (it's not). Just answer the OP's question; if you don't know, don't post. The OP wants answers, not opinions. This crap happens all the time here.

 

And thanks to Ben (and johnny) for finally answering the question. 

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You won't find a thread on GM swap because the lug pattern for GM is 4.75. Ford or Chrysler uses 2.5 spacing to backplate and 4.5 on the lug pattern.

 

 

There are kits in the $500-600 range complete for D44-D35 and the Ford 9"

 

 

8.25 rear disc it is simple bolt-on proposition, don't know why you want the cost and aggravation of the D44 swap?

 

 

Just jumped in on this thread. I'll never understand why when someone ask a specific question, as in this case "Rear Disc Brake Conversion D44", then everyone jumps in and interject non-relevant stuff like the D44 isn't worth it, the 8.25 is better, it's hard to do on a D44, etc. etc.

 

Who cares about someone's opinion that an D44 is inferior (I don't), or it's harder to do (it's not), or an 8.25 is better (it's not). Just answer the OP's question; if you don't know, don't post. The OP wants answers, not opinions. This crap happens all the time here.

 

And thanks to Ben (and johnny) for finally answering the question. 

 

 

 

His question was a little more complicated.

 

In my own shopping over the last couple of months I found a couple of complete kits in the range of $600........yet he scoffs at the cost at his own link.

 

He also states that he does not want to do the physical work of actually finding used parts.

 

He did not state that he has or has found a suitable D44, I have been looking and near impossible to find without doing some alteration or regearing.......either width or gearing or new axles due to 6 lug........what have you.

 

He will, with his approach, find that he will sink $1200 in an axle real quick like........not to mention the cost of a locker.

 

 

If he wants store bought he might as well order a custom D44 or a 9" and simply pay the $1800 and have it shipped to his door.

 

 

Most of us dig and scrounge like dogs to find parts we can afford, and in his case he can bolt on discs for about $180 in an afternoon.

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I have a MJ44 I plan to use. They are not worth more then a 8.25 up here. Some people pay stupid money for them I know. LOL The 8.25 that's in the truck is going in the 86 and the 86 will be rehomed.

 

Thanks for the links. I was scoffing at the price of the whole kit, not the brackets. I would spend $250 for the brackets and the main question there was "what could I use for rotors and calipers?" Sorry that wasn't made clear.

 

Yes I do plan someday to put cromo axles and a locker in the MJ 44. Just empty every pocket. I'm not cheap and never will be. Is it a crime to want brand new parts? But not pay 650 for friggen rear brakes?!

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Just jumped in on this thread. I'll never understand why when someone ask a specific question, as in this case "Rear Disc Brake Conversion D44", then everyone jumps in and interject non-relevant stuff like the D44 isn't worth it, the 8.25 is better, it's hard to do on a D44, etc. etc.

 

Who cares about someone's opinion that an D44 is inferior (I don't), or it's harder to do (it's not), or an 8.25 is better (it's not). Just answer the OP's question; if you don't know, don't post. The OP wants answers, not opinions. This crap happens all the time here.

 

And thanks to Ben (and johnny) for finally answering the question.

 

Thanks Don. You hit the nail on the head.

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http://www.jeep4x4center.com/backing-plate-assembly-kit-for-dana-35-with-disc-brakes-4762128-29k.html

There is a link for a new stock backing plate assembly, you will also need a different axle retainer for disc brakes. Stu's-offroad has a good write up with the retainer part number. If you want to save a few hundred bucks you would be better off going to a pick and pull and grabbing the backing plate and caliper assembly yourself. The swap is pretty easy. ZJ parking brake cables will do the trick for your e-brake.

I just wonder if there is any advantage to using the TSM manf brackets over these?

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If you want a couple of the TJ Rubicon axle seal retainers, I have some new ones that you can have for free. You'll have to weld up the holes and redrill to fit an XJ/MJ Dana 44. I ended up using the Teraflex spacers with the factory retainers.

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xjrev10, you can get a set of D44 backing plates, including the bearing preload spacers and T-bolts (p/o their conversion kit), for about $80-$90 per side for your MJ D44. Then you can use OEM 1997 and up Ford Explorer calipers, pads, and rotors to finish up from the source of you choice. This is what I did when I switched disks from a D35 to a D44.

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xjrev10, you can get a set of D44 backing plates, including the bearing preload spacers and T-bolts (p/o their conversion kit), for about $80-$90 per side for your MJ D44. Then you can use OEM 1997 and up Ford Explorer calipers, pads, and rotors to finish up from the source of you choice. This is what I did when I switched disks from a D35 to a D44.

Where can I find the backing plates? You talking D35 plates?

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Just jumped in on this thread. I'll never understand why when someone ask a specific question, as in this case "Rear Disc Brake Conversion D44", then everyone jumps in and interject non-relevant stuff like the D44 isn't worth it, the 8.25 is better, it's hard to do on a D44, etc. etc.

 

Who cares about someone's opinion that an D44 is inferior (I don't), or it's harder to do (it's not), or an 8.25 is better (it's not). Just answer the OP's question; if you don't know, don't post. The OP wants answers, not opinions. This crap happens all the time here.

 

And thanks to Ben (and johnny) for finally answering the question.

 

Best advice ever. This sums it up. If you don't know, don't answer. If everyone sticks to that, then the relevant responses will be searchable instead of having to muddle through the b.s.

 

 

Now, rev, I will tell you a couple things.

 

All factory bolt on conversions from jeep parts will require re drilling the bolt holes in the backing plates/ caliper brackets, and likely axle tube hole needing to be ground out.

 

 

BUT.

 

You need to shoot a p.m. To wade (89eliminator). He is currently on a wheeling trip so don't expect a fast response.

 

He is running KJ liberty discs. All KJ liberties with discs for a 3.7 KJ use an 8.25 rear axle. This means that the center hole is large enough for the axle tube to slide in. Minimal work necessary. I do not recall if he had to re drill the mount bolts to match the d44.

 

Those backing plates can be had new with complete parking brake assembly for $300ish from the dealer. Check with them. But enough KJ's are in the yards now that used may be the cats meow.

 

Steel piston calipers are $80 each...huge upgrade over stock phosphoric ceramic pistons. Pads cerca $40, rotors about $28 each.

 

The backing plates are nowhere near the thickness of the caliper brackets of all rear disc setups. You will need a spacer, the TJ rubicon retainers (need same re drill as plates to mount)...

 

or do what Wade's dad did;

Measure stock backing plate thickness at mounting flange.

Measure caliper bracket thickness with dust shield.

Subtract stock backing plate thickness from caliper bracket thickness

Measure lip diameter of stock bearing retainer.

 

Take those measurements to machine shop, have them make you two, and then have them slice the pair in half.

 

That gave him drop in spacers that did NOT require yet more re drilling for bolt pattern, and did NOT require him to replace the wheel bearings and axle seals if he didn't wish to.

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Since you want to go with chromo shafts, just get a pair for a Rubicon they come with the correct bearing retainer, at least mine from Alloy USA did.

So they are the same width. That was another question of mine!

 

Thanks Pat for the detailed post. I know I looked into the KJ stuff a few years ago but yes like you said, no yards had Libertys.

 

The reason I like the idea of new parts is stuff rusts so fast up here so most brake stuff sitting in the dirt is junk.

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xjrev10, you can get a set of D44 backing plates, including the bearing preload spacers and T-bolts (p/o their conversion kit), for about $80-$90 per side for your MJ D44. Then you can use OEM 1997 and up Ford Explorer calipers, pads, and rotors to finish up from the source of you choice. This is what I did when I switched disks from a D35 to a D44.

Where can I find the backing plates? You talking D35 plates?

 

 

No, D44 plates from Teraflex.

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Just jumped in on this thread. I'll never understand why when someone ask a specific question, as in this case "Rear Disc Brake Conversion D44", then everyone jumps in and interject non-relevant stuff like the D44 isn't worth it, the 8.25 is better, it's hard to do on a D44, etc. etc.

 

Who cares about someone's opinion that an D44 is inferior (I don't), or it's harder to do (it's not), or an 8.25 is better (it's not). Just answer the OP's question; if you don't know, don't post. The OP wants answers, not opinions. This crap happens all the time here.

 

And thanks to Ben (and johnny) for finally answering the question. 

It is simple: sometimes people are overlooking things. Not knowing each individual poster and their knowledge level it is possible that said poster has been fed a line of bull, such as the smaller than average D44 axle tube MJ version is some god-send axle. For every disgruntled poster ( or a person taking the thread equally off topic with their "stay on topic rant" ) you get as many responses along the lines of "Thanks, I never thought of that" or "Man, everybody told me that I had to go to xxxx to get xxxx." If you say you have never suggested an alternative route to someone in a post I would call shenanigans. I noticed that while complaining about people including extraneous info/opinions you took your chance to interject your opinions ( I don't, its not, it's not) when your opinions are just as irrelevant as the other opinions you are complaining about. You could have made your point more easily without posting your opinions but apparently added your own unnecessary (your claim) opinions. The OP wants answers, not opinions, right? Mr. Pot, meet Mr. Kettle. JeepDriver also makes a point regarding the info actually IN the OP. 

 

(BTW: The comments were "not worth the hassle," "easily comparable to", and "offer nothing over" not that the D44 is inferior or the 8.25 superior. )

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Since you want to go with chromo shafts, just get a pair for a Rubicon they come with the correct bearing retainer, at least mine from Alloy USA did.

So they are the same width. That was another question of mine!

Thanks Pat for the detailed post. I know I looked into the KJ stuff a few years ago but yes like you said, no yards had Libertys.

The reason I like the idea of new parts is stuff rusts so fast up here so most brake stuff sitting in the dirt is junk.

I have a complete set of KJ discs sitting here right now. They're clean, but I always replace pads, rotors, brake shoes. Also have the e brake cable ends...they could be modified to accept MJ ends

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Since you want to go with chromo shafts, just get a pair for a Rubicon they come with the correct bearing retainer, at least mine from Alloy USA did.

But did they fit without modification? Or do you have a D44 from a TJ? The flange bolt pattern is different between a TJ D44 and an XJ/MJ D44. That's how I ended up with two pair of the TJ axle seal retainers. I bought a new set of alloy shafts and the wrong retainer plates were in the box.

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Just jumped in on this thread. I'll never understand why when someone ask a specific question, as in this case "Rear Disc Brake Conversion D44", then everyone jumps in and interject non-relevant stuff like the D44 isn't worth it, the 8.25 is better, it's hard to do on a D44, etc. etc.

 

Who cares about someone's opinion that an D44 is inferior (I don't), or it's harder to do (it's not), or an 8.25 is better (it's not). Just answer the OP's question; if you don't know, don't post. The OP wants answers, not opinions. This crap happens all the time here.

 

And thanks to Ben (and johnny) for finally answering the question.

 

It is simple: sometimes people are overlooking things. Not knowing each individual poster and their knowledge level it is possible that said poster has been fed a line of bull, such as the smaller than average D44 axle tube MJ version is some god-send axle. For every disgruntled poster ( or a person taking the thread equally off topic with their "stay on topic rant" ) you get as many responses along the lines of "Thanks, I never thought of that" or "Man, everybody told me that I had to go to xxxx to get xxxx." If you say you have never suggested an alternative route to someone in a post I would call shenanigans. I noticed that while complaining about people including extraneous info/opinions you took your chance to interject your opinions ( I don't, its not, it's not) when your opinions are just as irrelevant as the other opinions you are complaining about. You could have made your point more easily without posting your opinions but apparently added your own unnecessary (your claim) opinions. The OP wants answers, not opinions, right? Mr. Pot, meet Mr. Kettle. JeepDriver also makes a point regarding the info actually IN the OP. 

 

(BTW: The comments were "not worth the hassle," "easily comparable to", and "offer nothing over" not that the D44 is inferior or the 8.25 superior. )

Regardless, I posted the title of this thread the way I did because that's the wording i kept coming back too after searching all over a few forums. I don't care what fits a 8.25 specifically (this time in this thread) only a D44. I plan to post exactly what works in this thread for future use!

 

AK

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